Hurricane Ian-damaged Captiva restaurant reopens with new chef, new flavors — JLB
Chef Ryan Kida says he’s just getting started.
And that’s very good news for Sunshine Seafood Café & Wine Bar.
Kida, who built a loyal following as the former chef/owner of Yabo in Fort Myers, found his way to Captiva Island after teaming up with Sandy Stilwell Youngquist.
“I think we met in September or October, knowing we were opening up,” said Stilwell Youngquist, who reopened Sunshine Seafood 14 months after Hurricane Ian roared through. “We talked about joining forces for years and years, but it never was exactly the right time. But this time it was perfect. I'm so glad Ryan and I finally connected.”
The upscale, intimate, reservations-strongly-recommended café is the third(ish) of her island restaurants to reopen.
Cantina Captiva was the first(ish) to come back on Dec. 30, 2022, a few months after Ian in the form of a food truck outside the property. Stilwell Youngquist hopes to have the restaurant fully operational by Feb. 12.
After her RC Otter’s Island Eats was flooded and substantially damaged from the storm, everything was replaced from the bottom up. Despite it all, the award-winning eatery held its grand reopening on July 27 and celebrated its 20th anniversary in December.
Redone inside after Hurricane Ian
Sunshine Seafood Café, which held a grand reopening ceremony Dec. 12, is the more formal, grown-up sister of RC Otter’s.
“It was probably one of least (Hurricane Ian) affected ones,” Stilwell Youngquist said. “We did the floor. The furniture and equipment were ruined. Structurally, it didn’t have the problems the others had.
"But as a fine dining restaurant, we wanted to be sure the business would be there and we would be ready. It’s a small restaurant and we give the best possible service.”
Returning customers will find an updated and fresh look with white tablecloths, pink napkins and a coastal vibe carried throughout via island artist Rachel Pierce’s eye-catching paintings.
The five-table, simply chic dining room appears vastly bigger than it is thanks to an extra high ceiling and mirrored wall.
Seven tables on the front and side patios, plus five seats at the small bar with a view of the open kitchen, complete the seating.
It’s in that open kitchen where you’ll find Kida at work.
Similar, but different, menu
“I gave him free rein to come up with the menu,” Stilwell Youngquist said. “I loved everything I tasted. We still have a strong seafood influence.”
It includes scampi-style scallops, yellowfin tuna, snapper Livornese in a spicy tomato caper sauce and blackened salmon served over a skillet with Cajun creamed Brussels sprouts.
That night’s grouper special with wilted arugula, risotto and a lobster cream sauce tasted as picture-perfect as it looked.
“I kept a couple of things on the menu,” Kida added. “The paella and the Brussels sprouts. Some of the seafood. Then I went and added an Italian influence. It’s a similar menu but different, new.”
Those Brussels sprouts — skillet roasted with pancetta and goat cheese, topped with black truffle shavings and focaccia — are part of the everything-sounds-so-good appetizers.
The asiago potato gnocchi was beloved at Yabo.
“I’m not a gnocchi fan,” Stilwell Youngquist said, “but his melted in my mouth. Now I’m a fan.”
So are we. The light and savory pillows of joy in a dreamy gorgonzola cream sauce had us smiling with every bite.
Stilwell Youngquist is also a “big fan of the eggplant parmesan,” served with linguine and one of seven pastas offered.
“We have great steaks and chops, just really delicious,” she said. “And everybody loves the lasagna Bolognese too.”
The two former include a 16-ounce ribeye, 6-ounce Black Angus filet mignon with cabernet demi-glace and 14-ounce veal and pork chops.
The lasagna comes with a traditional ragu with pork, beef and veal. It’s layered with pasta and pecorino cream. Presented in a personal Pyrex dish, the homemade wonder was so hearty that we stopped counting at five layers.
Kida, by the way, “picked out plates.”
“We had more fun shopping together,” Stilwell Youngquist said.
While she doesn’t micro-manage and “likes people to take over and put their stamp on it,” she takes pride in the wine selection.
“We won Wine Spectator awards two years in a row,” Stilwell Youngquist said. “After the hurricane, we’ve been bringing the wine list back up. I like to be the wine buyer and collector.”
It elevates Sunshine Seafood Café along with the exemplary service (shoutout to our server Dayna) and quality of food.
“Getting people out to the far island can be challenging,” Kida said. “This is a great place. It’s great for a special night. It’s priced a bit more but it reflects the quality. I do what I can to deliver the best product I can. We charge more, but I find the best ingredients.”
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“Regulars are saying the food is outstanding, over the top,” Stilwell Youngquist added. “They were loyal customers before, so it makes me feel good.”
And like Kida said, they’re just getting started.
Welcome back.
Sunshine Seafood Café & Wine Bar
11508 Andy Rosse Lane, Captiva
Price: $$$$
Call: (239) 472-6200 for reservations
Hours: 5-9 p.m. daily during season
Web: captivaislandinn.com/captiva-island-restaurants/sunshine-seafood
Sample menu
Scallops volcano, $24
Goat cheese & beets salad, $15
Sunshine paella, $48
Rigatoni Bolognese, $28
14-ounce bone-in pork chop, $40
Chicken burrata parm, $34
*Menu, hours and prices subject to change
What the symbols mean
$: Average entree is less than $15
$$: $15-$25
$$$: $25-$35
$$$$: $35-$45
$$$$$: $45 and up
Jean Le Boeuf is the brand under which our restaurant critics have written for more than 40 years. This article came from staff writer Robyn George. Connect: rhgeorge@gannett.com.
This article originally appeared on Fort Myers News-Press: Sunshine Seafood Café reopens on Captiva with former Yabo chef
