Intoxicating developments in downtown Meadville

Jun. 5—Signs of redevelopment in a city like Meadville are always cause for enthusiasm, but in some cases they are downright intoxicating.

Several of the more unique establishments to recently appear or be announced offer new takes on adult beverages, and in doing so they are remaking familiar buildings in the downtown area.

In April, Meadville City Council members unanimously approved the transfer of a liquor license into the city from Springboro for use at what the owners described as a retro-style diner planned for 217 North St., the now-vacant location most recently home to Evolution Printing Systems.

The 1950s-themed diner, which could open later this year, would follow the recent openings of other unique entries into the city's adult beverage market: micro-distillery Cussewago Creek Distillery, 993 Water St., and Blissful Meads, a winery specializing in honey-based wines with a tasting room at 847 Market St.

In explaining the vision that he and his wife, Shannon, had for the diner, John Colgrove told City Council members that their goal was to provide "food for all walks of life" in a restaurant with a small bar. The philosophy, he said, would be to "enjoy good food, great company and laughs after a long day's work."

John and Shannon were putting in their own long day of work last week at the future diner site, loading the back of a pickup truck as they removed a variety of elements that won't be needed any more. The building, which they acquired through a limited liability company in March, has a long history, some of which was evident as they worked: peeking above the drop ceiling, they could see hardware remaining from garage doors that were in place when the building housed a gas station; they also came across plans showing the interior layout for a Spudnut Shop at the location.

But next it will be the home to J & S Breakroom Diner, the name referencing both the couple and their plan to create a relaxing atmosphere. Such a vibe doesn't happen without some exertion, however. John, a steamfitter, was just returned from a month-long project in Kentucky and Shannon operates Top Knot Salon in Franklin. Having completed the purchase of the building just a few days after their marriage, their "honeymoon" involves plans to knock down walls as they begin renovations.

"When I married him," Shannon said, "I knew life wouldn't be slow."

The effort is a bit of a gamble, the couple said, but one they hope will work out for both their family and the community. The entrepreneurial spirit was hard to resist, according to John.

"We're always looking for what's next," he said. "If you don't take a chance, you can't make anything out of anything."

While the restaurant will be a new venture for the couple, they do have some background in expanding the city's offerings for food and drink. They also own the building that houses Cannon's Chophouse at 994 Market St., where John said they have renegotiated the lease as the chophouse restructures in the wake of its parent company voluntarily filing for bankruptcy.

"It's a five-year lease that we hope helps," John said. "More things to come."

The Colgroves' planned diner will operate on a restaurant liquor license that required approval from City Council to transfer into Meadville from its previous use at Springboro Restaurant. The Cussewago Creek Distillery operates on a limited distillery license, according to co-owner Michael Reed.

As with the diner, the creation of the distillery started with a vacant building, one that Reed remembered as a thrift store and produce market in past decades but that most recently belonged to a glass company. Following extensive renovations to the former Brunot and Hollabaugh Glass and Mirror Inc. location, the distillery opened its doors in October.

The opening came after what Reed described as a "test run" with periodic cocktail hours at French Creek Coffee and Tea Co. LLC, the Chestnut Street coffeeshop he also co-owns. The availability of the building played a key role in the decision to expand the distillery, according to Reed.

"That's when we decided — you know what?," he recalled, "let's just do it."

Under a limited distillery license, the company can produce up to 100,000 gallons of spirits annually, but Reed said near-term levels are more modest.

"Last year, we were in the 100s of gallons," he said with a laugh. Even so, he added, it's a product he has a passion for and a scope of production that allows for experimentation.

"With the distilling world, we're learning every single day," Reed said. "We're trying to develop products for our community — I'm not just producing what I want to produce and hoping everybody likes it. I'm trying to produce stuff that people in our community actually want, so I've been learning a lot of new techniques and a lot of different recipes."

The result is a menu that includes a variety of rums, gins and whiskeys as well as limited runs such as the heritage rum aged in barrels used for cherry brandy barrels that was released over the weekend — not to mention occasional doughnut brunches to satisfy the sweet tooth.

Honey provides plenty of sweetness at Blissful Meads, which has its home base a short walk from the Market House in the renovated location of a former law office. The mead-making site and tasting room operate on a limited winery license — each of the meads produced at Blissful Meads, including flavors such as blueberry vanilla, honey traditional, black currant sauvignon and others, contain 12.5 to 14.5 percent alcohol, about the same as an average wine.

The company, which opened its Meadville site last June, is looking forward to warm weather festivals and markets, according to co-owner Tom Goldsmith, and has plans to broaden its offerings.

"Winter slowed us down a little but we will be touring western PA this summer and should be very busy," Goldsmith said. "We are excited for a multitude of wine tours and our up-and-coming food program featuring South American street food."

Mike Crowley can be reached at (814) 724-6370 or by email at mcrowley@meadvilletribune.com.

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