Kabooki Sushi hosts James Beard Foundation’s Taste America series
Kabooki Sushi’s newly expanded original location was closed to the public Tuesday night as its chef/owner, two-time James Beard Award semifinalist Henry Moso hosted the organization’s second-ever Taste America series dinner in Orlando — and one of the fastest to sell-out in the 10-year history of the event.
Ninety-five guests gathered for a two-plus hour meal featuring decadent raw-bar setups beneath branded ice sculptures, setting the stage for a multicourse meal with effort split between Moso, whose kaiseki first course ate more like three (highlights included a citrusy mizudako balanced with deeply oceanic Hokkaido uni and a two-bite toro tartare oshizuki piled with Kaluga caviar) and guest chef Taylor Thornhill of Bateau, a modern American steakhouse in Seattle, Washington.
Thornhill’s cattle-driven skill set was on full display come second course, where delicate shishito peppers accompanied thin-sliced bresaola and glazed beef shank peppered with briny, bubble-like elderberry capers were among the treats. A mound of steak tartare, piled atop the speckled terrain of a rice cracker with the twin textures of quail egg and ikura was a starlet.
The dinner’s third course, The Yuzu, beautifully crafted by Kabooki executive pastry chef Elih Ostolaza, was a stunner on both plate and palate, an inception-like experience in which tart, textural basil-mint marmalade served as the core of the “fruit,” surrounded by feather-light whipped yuzu ganache on a crumble of black sesame and toasted coconut.
Speaking before the dinner, Moso was feeling confident and eager, not only about the opportunity to show off his team’s talents in Kabooki’s recently updated space, but that of collaboration.
“Most exciting is definitely getting to work with a talented chef from another city,” Moso told the Sentinel. “It’s been great to learn his concept, exchange knowledge and share a vision together for this event that we’re creating.”
There was extra excitement to come for Moso, who later learned that this dinner was among the fastest to sell-out in the annual culinary series’ decadelong history — a potentially potent sign of Orlando’s enthusiastic support of local chefs and an indie culinary scene its proponents know is worth showing off.
Presented by Capital One, Taste America runs annually in cities around the nation with proceeds benefiting various James Beard Foundation programs, including the Open for Good campaign.
“The depth and breadth of culinary talent in this country is absolutely mind-blowing and it’s something we want the American consumer to see,” said Jaime-Faye Bean, vice president of development for the James Beard Foundation.
“The series also provides some fundamental philanthropic support so that we can carry out impact programs which range from women’s entrepreneurial leadership programs to our legacy network mentoring program, where we’re working hard to build a more sustainable, equitable and diverse culinary industry in which everyone can thrive.”
Moso was visibly moved by the turnout and grateful to his team, which included a chef who volunteered just to work the dinner.
“He is driving three hours just to work with us for free for this event. Things like this show the great overall energy around it, and that Orlando is excited for it,” he said. “And I’ve been so happy to meet all the people involved with this great organization.”
Want to reach out? Find me on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram @amydroo or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com. For more fun, join the Let’s Eat, Orlando Facebook group or follow @fun.things.orlando on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.
