Lake Norman farm-to-table eatery may close over food safety: ‘Terrible for all of us’
EDITOR’S NOTE: THIS STORY WAS UPDATED AT 2 P.M. FRIDAY, SEPT. 22, WITH RESPONSE FROM BOHEMIAN CATTLE COMPANY OWNER CAMERON CANE.
Open just over a month, Lake Norman’s farm-to-table restaurant Bohemian Cattle Co. is in jeopardy of losing its permit to serve food and may close when September ends, its owner said Thursday.
Catawba County says it’s concerned about food safety and public health at the 64-acre regional attraction which debuted Aug. 2.
County officials told the business that it needed to address “outstanding permit requirements” to comply with state law, county spokeswoman Amy McCauley said.
“Obviously, this is terrible news for all of us, all of our patrons, certainly for all of our employees here,” owner Cameron Cane said in an Instagram video. Cane disputes the county’s claims about the permit.
The North Carolina Attorney General’s Office and Catawba County informed the business that its permit would not be renewed, forcing its kitchen to close Sept. 30, he said.
Only its bar and butcher shop is allowed to remain open, along with events at its outdoor adventure center, he said.
The ruling forced the business to close Mondays through Thursdays, while Bohemian is still able to maintain Friday, Saturday and Sunday hours — just without food, he said.
The permit issue appears to stem from how Bohemian is classified.
Cane said Bohemian considers itself an ”agritourism destination” — which combines agricultural production and visitor activities to boost tourism. Under that designation, it was granted a temporary food establishment permit.
No longer, he said on Instagram.
Catawba County disagreed that Bohemian is a farm, and the Attorney General’s Office backed county officials, he said. County officials added the permit issue has more to do with food safety.
“We were under the understanding that we would have one of those (permits) for as long as we need,” Cane said.
‘Outstanding permit requirements’
McCauley said Bohemian “has not met the statutory requirements necessary to receive a full food service establishment permit.”
The county issued Bohemian a temporary food service establishment permit and an extension, she told the Observer. State law allows only one extension, she said.
County officials told the business that it needed to address “outstanding permit requirements” to comply with state law, McCauley said. Only then will the county give Bohemian the permit, she said.
Public health concerns
In a statement Friday, the county further responded to Bohemian’s claims.
“Their current predicament isn’t about their designation; it’s about food safety and public health,” McCauley said in the statement emailed to the Observer.
The county granted Bohemian its agritourism designation several months ago, but that’s not the issue.
“Bohemian Cattle Company wants to operate a full service restaurant on their property on an ongoing basis, which requires a permanent food service establishment permit,” according to the county statement.
“Being an agritourism business does not exempt them from these statutory requirements,” the statement read. “Bohemian Cattle Company has failed to address the kitchen food safety and septic requirements that have been communicated to them, which would enable them to obtain a permanent permit.”
Also, Bohemian didn’t lose it permit per se, officials said in the statement. Rather, the business has a temporary permit that will expire on Oct. 13, according to the county.
“The narrative that they have been forced to close on Sept. 30 is false,” McCauley said in the email.
On Friday, Cane disputed the county’s version.
“We did not get closed for food safety issues,” he told the Observer on Instagram. “They are not issues with food safety, but a reluctance to provide a temporary food establishment permit. We have had and passed five separate inspections by the Catawba health department.”
The Attorney General’s Office has no knowledge that someone with the office was involved in the permit issue, spokeswoman Nazneen Ahmed said.
“It would be more for the county health department,” she said.
Bohemian is a barbecue-focused farm-to-table restaurant and an outdoor activities center on the Island Point Road farm and ranch Cane owns with his wife Sheila.
Bohemian’s massive barn-like setting is about 35 miles northwest of uptown Charlotte.
The entrance to the property looks just like one might expect when entering a ranch, with an overhead Bohemian Cattle Co. sign and rustic setting.
White fencing runs along both sides of the drive to the restaurant from the stone entrance, and woods flank the land off three sides of the large barn.
“Something really special here”
On Instagram, Cane said Bohemian had a “wildly successful grand opening.”.
“It’s been incredible to watch all of our patrons, and most certainly our employees, build something really special here. Our family friendly environment I think everyone has enjoyed.
“We are working diligently with the county on how to continue food service here,” Cane added.
Bohemian is trying to come up with ideas that would allow it to serve food again, he said. “Currently, we don’t have a perfect plan,” he said.
Bohemian Cattle Co.
Location: 8178 Island Ford Road, Sherrills Ford, NC, 28673.
Cuisine: American, steaks
Instagram: @bohemiancattleco
