Landmark Smokehouse, on Cleveland's West Side, is close to offering a blazing BBQ experience | Restaurant review
Apr. 10—I never expected it to be the turkey.
I never expected the turkey to be the shining star of a trio of meats on my tray at Cleveland's Landmark Smokehouse & Bar.
But it was, the smoky and zesty slices of that typically boring Thanksgiving staple dazzling — especially when dunked in Landmark's BBQ sauces — bite after bite.
It also was the highlight of a generally enjoyable, pleasantly mellow recent Saturday-night visit with my buddy Dave to Landmark.
Partners Constantine Katsaros and Jack Messer in 2018 opened Landmark in the former home of the Clifton Diner, just a few steps east of Lakewood and next door to their Twist Social Club.
Inside, it's simple but attractive enough, with dark-wood beams and fanciful lighting features standing out among the decor touches. There's a bar and a good number of tables. There are hand sanitizer dispensers to be found, too. (Perhaps not too surprisingly in this post-pandemic time, the one near our seats had not been refilled.)
Landmark had the feel of a place still finding its footing, surprising given its age. (Of course, there was that whole pandemic thing, which had a way of resetting the clock for people and places.)
For example, Dave and I would have been happy to try an appetizer or two, but none was to be found on our paper menu. It was only well after we'd ordered our entrees that we discovered the placard at the far end of the table listing apps including Fried Dill Pickle Chips ($8), Smokehouse Nachos ($9), Landmark Smoked Wings ($14) and BBQ Brisket Egg Rolls ($10).
The placard referred to them as "featured apps," so perhaps they change too frequently to be on the menu — even though the paper menu would suggest something that could be altered easily and often? At the very least, you'd think our server — very friendly but not exactly a frequent visitor to our table on this not-very-busy night — would have pointed them out during her first check-in with us.
A silver lining to App-gate was that, because I've been watching carbs this first part of the year — a big reason why a visit to this meat-forward place appealed to me when it did — I wouldn't have been able to have much of anything beyond the wings. On a repeat visit, I'd love to try two other starters, the Smoked Meat Poutine ($13) and the Landmark Tacos ($9), assuming they are "featured" at that time.
Because of my diet, I'd settled on the 1lb. Smoked Meat Tray ($25) before setting foot inside Landmark, but the menu boasts several sandwiches, salads and even bowls, along with my choice and the three others in the "Dinners" section of the menu. Dave also chose from there, going with the Smoked St. Louis Ribs ($16).
First, though, it was time for a cocktail for him and something off the separate and expansive list of whiskeys (and whiskys). One side of a standard sheet of paper is packed with bourbons, while the other — not so crowded — lists rye and Irish whiskeys and Japanese and Scotch whiskies. (Yes, the differences in the spellings will forever be annoying.)
Dave went with the Gin and & Bear It ($9) — Broker's Gin, St. Germain, lemon and seasonal syrup — which he enjoyed. I took the opportunity to try a spirit I'd eyed a few times in stores, Basil Hayden Toast ($13), a bourbon made with toasted barrels. Served in a Glencairn glass, it was every bit the complex delight I'd hoped.
Basil Hayden Toast bourbon is one of many spirits available at Landmark Smokehouse. (Mark Meszoros ??
It wasn't too long before our food arrived, each meal presented on a baking sheet, as is the case these days at so many barbecue joints.
Another little oddity: My entree was to come with "a choice of two BBQ sauces on the side," while, in fact, Landmark has but two: Kansas City, a sweet-and-tangy tomato-based variety; and South Carolina, a sauce with a mustard foundation. Perhaps that means you get a choice of one of the two, but we were brought a small plate with two KCs and one SC. I asked for an extra SC so we each could have a ramakin of both.
My meal was a feast. Along with the turkey, pulled pork and brisket were the headliners, but the tray also was home to coleslaw, pickled onions, pickle chips and toast points. And largely because I simply wanted to try something else in what at the time of ordering I thought was an appetizer-free zone, I added a Brussels Spout Salad ($4) from a list of sides that also includes fries, potato salad, mac and cheese and the like.
The Brussels Spout Salad is one of the sides available at Landmark Smokehouse. (Mark Meszoros ??
We've covered the turkey, and the brisket was almost as good — tender, juicy and savory — but I generally expect outright deliciousness from brisket and wasn't taken aback.
Conversely, I was pretty disappointed in the rather lifeless pork. I don't want to say it was overcooked, but it reminded me of pulled pork I've let cook for too long, with a soft texture that leaves a lot to be desired.
Each of the meats was helped by the sauces, especially the South Carolina. Admittedly, I'm a big fan of mustard sauces, but this one was next-level, a complex creation I'd have taken home had I seen bottles for sale.
I gave the ordinary-looking toast points to Dave (re: carbs), but everything else complemented the meats very well — especially those tasty pickled onions. The slaw was just fine, but the Brussels salad proved to be a nice little addition, crunchy, tasty and, I'd love to think, vaguely healthy.
Dave added what turned out to be a very attractive Simple Side ($4) salad, listed under Salads along with the House Chopped ($10) and Honey Beet Salad ($9).
The ribs, he said, were merely fine. (The jerk didn't offer me any, so I can't offer any further opinion.)
Here is Landmark Smokehouse's Smoked St. Louis Ribs dinner with fries and slaw, along with an added salad. (Mark Meszoros ??
There doesn't seem to be much in the way of dessert at Landmark aside from the Chocolate Chip Cookie ($2) listed as a side. I wasn't interested for obvious reasons, but that's at least another little head-scratcher.
Landmark both left me wanting a little more from a figurative sense and a lot more from a literal one — in that, despite its little oddities, I'd gladly come back.
Part of that is the value proposition: At a time when menu prices can be eye-popping, it never feels as if Landmark is trying to shake every last dollar out of you.
If they were, they'd at least make sure you knew about the appetizers.
Landmark Smokehouse & Bar
11637 Clifton Blvd.
Cleveland
216-230-4040
Location: Southeast corner of Clifton and West 17th Street.
Type of restaurant: Smokehouse.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday; 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Cuisine: Barbecue-centric
Vegetarian: A few salads, Vegan Burger, meat-optional Mac & Cheese.
Special diets: Items on menu market as fitting in which various diets.
Dress code: Casual
Online ordering: Via Toast.
Prices: Moderate, with large entrees $22 to $28, starters around $10 and sandwiches $10 to $15.
Value: Good.
Ratings (of five):
Food: 4,
Atmosphere: 3,
Service: 3.5.
