I Learned to Ski on One of the Hardest Slopes in the World — Here's Why You Should, Too

Nestled in Switzerland's 4 Vallées region, Nendaz ski resort is the ultimate destination for beginners and families.

"It's just a little snow. It's just a little snow, Vanessa." These are the words I repeated to myself over and over again as I peered into the vast white terrain ahead of me.

Perched on the edge of a sinuous Swiss mountain, with nowhere to go but down, it was time to show off what I'd learned over the last few days of private ski lessons. Naturally, all I could think about at that moment were the numerous wipeouts I'd endured during my training, leaving me wildly unconfident in my chances of making it off this hilly slope in one piece. "You can do this," I repeated to myself. "It's just a little snow."

Before this week, the closest I'd ever gotten to skiing was watching the Winter Olympics on television. It was an experience I'd always hoped to try, so when Switzerland Tourism invited me to explore the country as a first-time skier, I jumped at the opportunity and headed to Switzerland to learn from the very best.

After a long travel day that included an international flight, three trains, and one final bus, I arrived in the small town of Nendaz, a charming ski resort in the heart of Switzerland's 4 Vallées (Valleys) in the Valais region. Snow-covered chalets and gorgeous mountains greeted me as I arrived at my hotel, Les Etagnes, just in time for dinner. As I headed to the dining room, I inadvertently stumbled into a lively après-ski at the hotel's appropriately named Cheersbar, where a gaggle of friendly Swiss locals noticed my luggage and shouted, "Welcome to Switzerland!" As tempting as it was to join in on the fun after dinner, I knew I had a big day ahead of me, so I turned in early to get a good night's rest ahead of my first-ever ski lesson.

Related: 10 Mistakes to Avoid on Your First Ski Trip, According to Experts

The following day, I bundled up in my sleek snow gear and headed to the Tracouet area in the center of Haute-Nendaz to meet my instructor, Amandus Amacker. Swarms of enthusiastic skiers and snowboarders buzzed around the entrance of the ski station, but sporting a fire engine red instructor's suit, Amacker stuck out among the crowds.

At 67, Amacker was much older than the other instructors, and as I weaved through the chaotic scene to introduce myself, his warm smile and soft presence immediately relieved some of my initial nerves about hitting the slopes. Nearly everyone in Nendaz knows Amacker, who has more than 45 years of experience under his belt. Even the employee who rented me my ski gear amusingly noted that Amacker had taught him to ski as a child.

While I was happy to have a true professional teaching me the ropes, I think Amacker could still see the sheer terror on my face as we boarded the gondola to take us up the mountain because one of the first things he said to me was, "Don't panic, it's just a little snow!" Still skeptical, I tried to smile through the stress, and we continued up the slope for my first day of lessons.

We started on flat snow, where Amacker went over the very basics of learning to ski. From getting in and out of my boots to walking with skis on and learning the correct ski stance, the first hour of my lesson didn't actually involve any skiing at all. Soon enough, though, it was time to practice gliding. After pushing off my poles, I felt my skis glide a few inches, but then fear kicked in, and I started to panic, looking up at Amacker for help. For some reason, I was petrified of falling, I explained. "Why are you afraid of falling?" He said bluntly. "If you fall, you fall. It's just snow!" He had a point, and I eventually managed to get a handle on the basic glide. Once Amacker and I both felt sufficiently confident in my basic skills, I moved on to my next big obstacle: the Bunny Slope.

I shuffled to the back of the line behind a flock of tiny children from the Swiss Ski School at Nendaz. It was quite a sight to see — me practicing my "pizzas" and "french fries" with the other beginners, some as young as three years old. Amacker and the other instructors cheered us on each step of the way, even when we ended up face-down in the snow. I guess it's an important lesson at any age — when you fall, you get back up and try again.

For the next few days, I worked on maintaining a steady ski pace by learning how to speed up and slow down and, most importantly, learning how to stop without falling. My biggest challenge came when I tried to add turns to my repertoire. I'd try to turn as Amacker instructed, but I just couldn't get the hang of it. I felt like a toddler trying to walk in her mother's heels as I wobbled into the turns, and despite my best efforts, nothing was working.

Amacker, as patient as ever, tried to explain it to me in a different way. "Other sports are fast and bold, like rock and roll, but skiing is smooth, like a waltz," he said while waving his hands like a conductor. With this analogy in mind, and my mental block of falling slowly melting away like the very snow I was trying to conquer, I persevered and, after hours of trying, got my turns down.

On my last day of lessons, instead of heading to Tracouet, where I'd practiced before, Amacker took me to the Ski Station Les 4 Vallées for my final lesson. "Today, we ski from there," he noted while pointing up toward the peaks of the sweeping mountain above us. I looked at him in utter disbelief while he chuckled at my instant panic, his warm eyes once again relieving my nerves. "Don't worry," he reassured me. "I wouldn't take you here if I didn't think you could do it."

So there I was, standing on the biggest slope I'd tackled yet, mustering up the courage to ski down by reminding myself that even if I fell, it was just a little snow. With a deep breath (and a loving nudge from Amacker), I pushed off my poles and started skiing down the mountain. It wasn't a perfect run, and it certainly wasn't fast, but by using the skills I'd learned over the past few days, I miraculously made it to the base of the slopes without falling once. Amacker even took a video of me as I carved my way down the piste, showing me visual proof of my improvement from just three days before.

"Excellent work, I knew you could do it!" Amacker exclaimed when we reached the bottom of the slope. His triumphant smile was contagious, and soon we were both grinning and high-fiving while looking up at this mountain-sized milestone I'd accomplished. As I said goodbye to Nendaz, I was filled with gratitude for such an incredible first skiing experience and vowed that while it was my first time skiing, it wouldn't be my last.

What We Like

With access to around 255 miles of ski runs (about a third of which are blue pistes), Nendaz is ideal for beginner and intermediate skiers. Newbies can hone their technique in three beginner areas, while powder hounds can tour the ungroomed slopes of Mont-Fort, which reach nearly 11,000 feet. A number of ski schools cater to snow enthusiasts of all ages and abilities, making this one of Switzerland's most family-friendly ski areas. And with plenty of off-mountain draws, including one of the world's highest zip lines, sledding tracks, and snow tubing areas, even non-skiers can get in on the fun.

When to Go

The 4 Vallées ski area is open from November to May, depending on snow conditions. Lift openings vary by region, but gondolas typically operate between mid-December and mid-April. January and February are usually the snowiest months, but travelers who visit in March or early April may enjoy less crowded runs. For those looking to schedule their trip around a special event, the Nendaz Freeride competition typically takes place from early January to early March.

Where to Stay

Les Etagnes

Les Etagnes is steps away from the lifts to the ski area and even has ski-in, ski-out access. With only nine mountain-view rooms, including some connecting suites, and an excellent restaurant with a kids' menu, the property is well suited to families and groups looking to stay close to the slopes.

Hôtel Nendaz 4 Vallées & Spa

If you're looking for a little pampering in between your ski days, stay at the Hôtel Nendaz 4 Vallées & Spa. The 4-star resort is renowned for its 62 luxury guest rooms, upscale restaurants, and, most notably, its Spa des Bisses, which spans two floors and features multiple saunas, a steam bath, an ice cave, and more.

Mad Mount Hotel

Mad Mount Hotel is a modern boutique property just a five-minute walk from the Tracouet gondola. The carbon-negative hotel features 28 rooms with a sustainable, alpine cabin-inspired design (think clean lines and locally sourced wood). On-site amenities include a sleek spa with saunas and hot tubs, as well as a light-filled restaurant and bar.

Where to Eat

Restaurant Le Raccard

If you're looking for traditional Swiss fare, try Restaurant Le Raccard. Perfectly situated in the center of Haute-Nendaz, the restaurant offers delicious meat and cheese fondue selections to help you refuel after a long day on the slopes.

Mont-Rouge

If you want something a little fancier, make a reservation at Mont-Rouge, which offers an elegant yet cozy atmosphere, ideal for a date night. Local produce forms the basis of creatively presented French and Swiss dishes, which have earned the restaurant a Michelin Bib Gourmand nod.

Grill Mountain

Carnivores will want to snag a table at Grill Mountain, where you can select and cook your own meat on a Himalayan salt block. With a lively atmosphere and a butcher shop-style vitrine packed with locally sourced meats, dining here is a fun and interactive experience.

Where to Après Ski

Edelweiss

Located in the heart of Haute-Nendaz, Edelweiss is the place to go for a spirited après-ski experience. The hot spot is known for its live music, daily DJ sets, and happy hours — you can hear the skiers and snowboarders dancing the night away from a mile away.

Cheersbar

For a more intimate experience after kicking off your skis, try the cozy Cheersbar, conveniently situated next to the Tracouet lift. The bar offers a relaxed atmosphere, best enjoyed with a cup of vin chaud (mulled wine) after a day on the slopes.

Le Bob

Located off the blue run heading down to Nendaz, Le Bob is an en piste bar worth pulling over for. Enjoy a beer on the sunny, expansive terrace overlooking the valley. If you time your visit right, you might also be treated to a spectacular sunset.

Off-mountain Activities

Beyond skiing and snowboarding, there are plenty of other ways to explore the winter wonderland of the 4 Vallées. Skate on the open-air ice rink at the center of the Nendaz resort, get acquainted with the local culture at the Nînd'Art gallery, or go on a thrilling winter tandem paragliding adventure with Element'Air. Those who prefer cross-country skiing can also enjoy the trails through the Pra da Dzeu meadow and the Prachavio forest.

How to Ride

Tickets

Daily or weekly lift tickets, as well as annual passes, can be purchased in advance online at a discount. Since the 4 Vallées ski area is vast, lift tickets are divided by zone, though access to the entire domain is also available. Day passes for the Printse sector, which connects Nendaz, Veysonnaz, and Thyon, start at 58 Swiss Francs (around $65), while tickets for the entire ski area start at 69 Swiss Francs (around $77).

Rentals

A number of equipment stores offer daily and weekly ski and snowboard gear rentals. Among the favorites are Intersport – Ski Service, which also offers lockers, and OnTheMountain, which has a boot fitting workshop, ski and snowboard repair center, and ski school.

Skiing and Snowboarding Info

With 205 marked runs serviced by nearly 100 lifts, the 4 Vallées is one of the largest ski areas in Switzerland and rivals other destinations like Andermatt and Zermatt. Among the trails are two green runs (beginner), 77 blue (easy), 106 red (intermediate), and 20 black (expert).

Programming

Five ski schools in Nendaz cater to people of all levels and abilities. First-timers and families often head to the Swiss Ski School, which has been operating for more than 50 years and offers a range of private and group lessons (including a mini kids' club for children ages two and a half to four). More advanced? The Neige Aventure Ski School offers ski touring lessons and workshops to help you take your skills to the next level.

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