Local Flavor: Akron's iconic Waterloo Restaurant serves up thousands of sauerkraut balls

It must be instinctual.

Just like birds flying south for the winter, folks in Akron get a hankering for a good sauerkraut ball around New Year's.

And for some, this delectable appetizer that was born here many Champagne toasts ago is a go-to food staple year-round.

These fried concoctions of sauerkraut and ham rolled into a ball and then covered in a batter are so popular at Akron's fabled Waterloo Restaurant, they have to have a crew of workers come in solely to make them. They are rolled by the thousands this time of the year to either be served in the dining room or to go, or for catered events in and around town.

And like a fine Champagne, they have to age — in this case, overnight — or the batter will simply fall off when deep-fried to golden perfection.

I, too, had a hankering for the Akron-centric treat and ventured with my dear wife, Jennifer, to visit the Waterloo Restaurant for the first time.

Although I had never been there, it was like visiting an old friend — the restaurant, of course; I would never call my wife old.

It was fun waiting for our table at lunch and wandering around the lobby, looking at the old menus and newspapers ads on display. They date back to the family-owned restaurant's start in the late '50s through the ensuing decades.

A bucket of 12 pieces of fried chicken could once be had for a mere $3.50 and a so-called beefeater sandwich for just 75 cents.

The prices have changed a bit over the years but the Bahas family has done an admirable job keeping the place and menu familiar for longtime customers, with some new modern touches like the sleek large metal W's on the walls of the main dining room.

They recently completed a renovation of the restaurant's bar area that looks very inviting to spend and hour or so.

For starters, we ordered the "award-winning" sauerkraut balls that were quickly served hot with a side of cocktail sauce for dipping.

I must admit, I was a bit apprehensive about cocktail sauce as the choice of dip, but it turned out to be a nice addition with the horseradish adding a tasteful blend to the sauerkraut and ham.

Serving a sauce in which to dip the sauerkraut balls is not uncommon at Akron-area restaurants, but the Reuben lover in me wonders why they are not served with Thousand Island dressing.

I'm sure this is heresy to purists — so dismiss my Thousand Island nonsense to being a newcomer who has only been working in Akron some 21 years.

Either way, the appetizer, priced at $5.50, did not disappoint.

The sauerkraut balls and the small hot, fresh loaf of bread that is served before your entrees arrive could have satisfied us for lunch.

Heck. Who am I kidding? Our hunger might've ebbed, but we were still eager for our meals.

Jennifer ordered the cabbage rolls, served with a side of mashed potatoes ($11.99), which were just like the ones I remember being served at wedding receptions I attended as a child.

And, speaking of weddings... I personally believe that — aside from the whole loving someone for life and kids and the house and all that — the best part of being married is getting to share food. Don't judge me... that's Jennifer's job.

Thankfully, we both believe in splitting our marital assets and, in this case, the cabbage rolls. We are a match made in mashed potatoes.

In turn, I graciously shared some of my Dena's Mediterranean Salad ($9.95) that truly was big enough for two.

It had a generous portion of fresh chopped romaine lettuce, feta cheese, Kalamata olives, pepperoni slices (more on this later), red onion, cherry tomatoes, pepperoncini and a cup of delicious, thick house-made Greek dressing. They even threw in some pita bread to mop it all up.

And trust me, despite the appetizer, I mopped it all up.

I also had to try a cup of the French onion soup that had me at words "homemade croutons" on the menu.

The soup with its thick melted cheese on top was the cure for a chilly winter day.

Gary McDonnell, the Waterloo's director of operations, stopped by our table and chatted with us about some of the restaurant's offerings.

I was particularly curious about the pepperoni included in the restaurant's traditional Greek salad.

McDonnell explained that, years ago, a longtime customer recommended adding pepperoni to the salad, so they tried it and decided it should stay. It doesn't hurt that the salad's namesake, Dena Bahas — a member of the family who owns the place — eats hers that way too.

McDonnell said he's been working at the restaurant for some 34 years and can't remember a time when it wasn't in the salad.

And over those many, many years, McDonnell said, he's also help make his fair share of sauerkraut balls.

In the days leading up to Christmas and New Year's, he said, the kitchen is full of tray after tray of the balls, helping to keep a tasty uniquely Akron tradition alive for generations of families.

Jennifer and I did our part by quickly polishing off our plate of them. We wouldn't mind coming back for more.

Craig Webb, who is eager to try the "famous" Waterloo fried chicken next, can be reached at cwebb@thebeaconjournal.com.

Details

What: Waterloo Restaurant

Where: 423 E. Waterloo Road in Akron

Hours: Open for dine-in and carry-out seven days a week

For more: Visit https://www.waterloorestaurant.com/

This article originally appeared on Akron Beacon Journal: Sauerkraut balls are a sure bet on the menu at Akron's Waterloo Restaurant