A look back at Georgia's historic, scenic Jekyll Island, once a millionaire's paradise
For those afflicted by the history bug, the main attraction of Jekyll Island, Ga., are the grand houses of the Jekyll Island Club, which date to the 1880s and are set amidst sprawling giant live oaks on the western side of the island.
Among them are the ornate clubhouse and a series of giant so-called cottages (and an early condo) built by titans such as William Rockefeller, Vincent Astor, William Vanderbilt, Joseph Pulitzer, Marshall Field and J.P. Morgan.
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As the Times-Union's inimitable Sandy Strickland wrote in 2018: "Calling them 'cottages' is like referring to Mickey Mouse as a rodent. Mansions is the operative word here. But what boggles the middle-class mind and pocketbook, even more, is that these turn-of-the-century 'cottages' were only winter homes for the rich and renowned.
"This Jekyll Island historic district," Strickland continued, "is sort of a down-South version of Newport Beach, R.I., set among live oaks dressed in moss. On this barrier island 70 miles from Jacksonville, the wealthy hunted boar and pheasants, rode horses, biked, golfed and played croquet and tennis in exclusive privacy."
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You can stay in some of those restored, grand rooms at what's now called the Jekyll Island Club, from which you can see the marshes of Glynn County and croquet players dressed in all white out on the plush croquet court in front (serious stuff, this).
The glory days of the millionaires' retreat faded away until the club closed in 1942 during World War II. The state of Georgia bought the island in 1947 through condemnation proceedings for $650,700, and the old buildings have been constantly renovated over the years.
From 2014: Last students pass through Jekyll 4-H Center until late 2016
Jekyll Island is now a state park, and even though there's no shortage of private homes and hotels, much of it is kept wild. A good way to see it is via bike paths that both circle and crisscross the island (bike rentals are available).
Away from the historic district, much of the rest of the island's accommodations are on the oceanfront, and they're more downhome and decidedly late 20th-century in style. And that seems just fine to the vacationers who flock there.
Island highlights include a sea turtle museum and rehabilitation center, a water park and miles of oceanfront, along with festivals (Jekyll likes its festivals) that include a long-running shrimp and grits celebration and a bluegrass event that's almost 50 years old.
The island has also drawn filmmakers. Parts of the Civil War story "Glory" were filmed on the beach, and Robert Redford later came to the island to shoot "The Legend of Bagger Vance" with stars Will Smith, Matt Damon and Charlize Theron.
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Released in 2000, "Bagger Vance" did not do much to impress the Times-Union's grumpy movie critic (me, in a former life), who groused that it was "utterly square and predictable," while allowing that the filming locations in coastal Georgia (including Jekyll) and South Carolina were as gorgeous on film as they are in real life.
This article originally appeared on Florida Times-Union: Georgia's Jekyll Island, once a millionaire's paradise, still charms