Looking back at the best eats Merced County had to offer during the 1970s

One of the popular features of the “Remember 1973?” exhibit currently on display at the Courthouse Museum is the section about restaurants. From Rose’s chili dogs to Ray Douglas’ tender steaks, there were plenty of good eats in Merced County 50 years ago and plenty of fond memories from our visitors today.

Blueberry Hill Café near Livingston, for example, was a well-known eating establishment on Highway 99. It was started by Ray Pratt in the 1950s. Many travelers would make Blueberry Hill their special stop during their trips. The simplest joy of eating at this restaurant included the old-fashioned baked bread served hot to all the diners and the delicious blueberry ice cream served in stainless steel tulip bowls. The next highway-stop restaurant in the exhibit is J’s Coffee Shop in Atwater at Applegate Road and 99, which was managed by Carol Hartzell.

Old Highway 99 in Merced was 16th Street, where, in the 1920s, it had two wooden “Merced: Gateway to Yosemite” arches anchored on the southern and northern entrances to the city. Near the southern entrance at 161 E. 16th Street was Antola’s Italian Restaurant, started by Pietro and Lina Antola. Formerly restaurateurs in San Francisco, the Antolas purchased Monty’s Barbecue in the late 1950s and turned it into fine dining with “a bit of San Francisco and European continental flavor.” The restaurant was frequented by movie stars like Danny Thomas, who advertised for the restaurant on a highway billboard.

The old highway had several other popular restaurants with unique cuisine. In addition to Antola’s Italian, there was Tropical Treats at 470 W. 16th Street, known for its roasted chicken and “Tacos and Burgers by the Sack.” For good old American food, there was Branding Iron at 640 W. 16th Street, a mainstay of Merced started by Ray and Beulah Douglas in 1952. While the tender steaks with unequaled charcoal treatment were the best-known item on their menu, Beulah considered the Blue Cheese Dressing and Chicken Inverness to be the secret “weapons” of their success. For Cantonese-style Chinese food, Joe Hong’s Rice Bowl at 909 W. 16th Street was the place to go.

Merced had not one but three Chinese restaurants in 1973. Originally located on 14th Street in Chinatown, New China Cafe had served the Merced community since 1926 before it was moved to 17th and Q Streets in 1958. Owner Hayling Jew, the nephew of one of its founders, was a Chinese immigrant whose famous homemade noodles and Pork Fried Rice attracted customers far and near. While New China Café was the oldest Chinese restaurant in Merced, Hong Kong Restaurant at 333 W. 18th Street was the newest and largest of the three.

Another new restaurant opened in Merced in 1973 was the Wine Cellar at 350 W. 17th Street and, of course, known for its excellent wine collection. It was owned by Terry Allen, Leonard Rich, Tom Philson, and John Richards. While the Wine Cellar’s décor was early California, DiCicco’s Italian Restaurant’s dining area evoked an old Italian garden atmosphere. The Merced location at 640 W. 17th Street was the DiCicco family’s fourth restaurant when it opened in 1970. On its 1973 “All You Can Eat” menu, spaghetti every Monday night cost $1.79; ravioli every Tuesday night, $1.99; and lasagna every Wednesday night, $1.99.

Suppose “All You Can Eat” is not your cup of tea, and you prefer a more elegant dining experience. In that case, the Sir James Steakhouse & Lounge “gives you the comfort and relaxation you deserve in its authentic Old English atmosphere,” according to its 1973 Merced Sun-Star ad. Located at 1111 Motel Drive, it was started by James Moomjean, who also owned the James R. Moomjean Used Cars in town.

For faster service, the sub shops, lunch counters, and hot dog stands always attract loyal customers. Even 50 years later, many still remember Rose Billings’ famous chili dogs from The Hot Dog at 12th and J (Now MLK Jr. Way) Streets, the Happy Steaks from Happy Steak in College Green Shopping Center on West Olive Avenue, chicken “to go” from Jerry’s Drive-In at 1725 Yosemite Park Way, or giant sandwiches from the Happy Submarine at 307 W. 17th Street.

While the Dairy Queen at 3140 G Street was a well-known attraction to the younger generation, the Wards Buffeteria at 1111 W. Olive Street was a popular spot for home cooking. These restaurants are just a few of the eating places featured in the Merced Sun-Star’s special edition for the National Restaurant Month promotion in October 1973.

Today, Merced’s eatery landscape has significantly evolved, with Mexican food and taco trucks dominating the food scene, Southeast Asian (Thai, Vietnamese, and Laotian) and Indian cuisine becoming ever so popular, and more and more chain restaurants setting up shop here. These trends reflect Merced’s growing population diversity and Americans’ hunger for convenience in food preparation and delivery.

If you are nostalgic about old-fashioned cooking, please check out the “Remember 1973?” exhibit at the Courthouse Museum. It is on display until May 21. The Museum is closed on Easter.