Lost Recipes: What would 1894 critic Emma I. McLagan think of your hot chocolate?

In honor of January 31 being National Hot Chocolate Day, I’m sitting here with a cup of salted caramel hot coco made in seconds by my Keurig.

My personal way of tweaking it is to add a good dash of caramel flavored creamer. My coco overflows with rich caramel goodness, and the creamer cools it a bit. With that, you might not even need marshmallows — though you could still add them.

I love it.

Still, I know Emma I. McLagan of Montgomery would have a scowl on her face if she looked at what’s in my cup. She’d say it was “chilly thin brown liquid.” That’s how she described other hot chocolate recipes.

In 1894, she presented the Advertiser with her great big recipe for the “perfect cup of hot chocolate.” She was connoisseur of all things chocolate, and offered several other recipes that we’ll likely get into later.

Prepping the chocolate

For McLagan, the key to hot chocolate is actual chocolate. No powder mix or syrup for her.

“For a cup of hot chocolate that will be both food and drink in its rich consistency, take an ounce of grated chocolate," McLagan wrote.

Meaning, you have to grate the chocolate yourself. No time for that, no problem. Also, be sure to have some boiling milk on standby.

"From experience, I find that the chocolate does just as well if you break it into small bits, put them into a bowl and pour on two tablespoons of boiling water," McLagan wrote. "If you allow this to set five minutes and then mash it perfectly smooth you can pour on the boiling milk and the mixture will thicken admirably.”

Prepping it to serve to guests

McLagan lived during a time when hot chocolate was a drink of society, something to be savored together.

For example, here’s something the Advertiser ran in 1892: “Hot chocolate and coffee at C.T. Fitzpatrick’s under Exchange Hotel. Ladies are especially invited to try it.”

I doubt that would have stood up to McLagan’s taste test either. Here’s how she prepared hers for guests.

“To proceed: Take an ounce of chocolate for each cup unless there are more than six. After that, less is needed. When it is melted, which must be done in a little cold milk if grated, otherwise as I have mentioned, pour on a half pint of sweet, new milk boiling; add sugar to taste, cover and set over boiling water if you use a bain marie (pot). If you have only a plain saucepan, set it where the fire is not too hot, and stir while it slowly simmers about five minutes. Now, if you will take the wire spoon with which you beat the whites of eggs and whip the mixture, it assumes the light, creamy smoothness that is so inviting to everybody. Whip some cream to pile on top of the chocolate after it is in the cup, and you have a beverage easily comparable to the ‘nectar,’ which we are told is the daily drink of the gods. The chocolate pot must be thoroughly heated."

Be prepared to wash a lot of dishes to make this recipe happen.

It should be thick… very thick

From what she describes, McLagan's hot chocolate ends up a lot like hot chocolate pudding.

“Remember that whatever brand of chocolate you buy, one thing is certain — if you go by the directions of the package, your beverage will be thin and not nearly rich enough. To be perfect, chocolate must be thick enough to eat with a spoon, not to drink. If you cannot get cream and must use beaten white of egg, it should always have a little powdered sugar beaten into it, about two tablespoons to each white. This presents it turning back to liquid after being whipped.”

Sounds like I’d have to wash it down with a glass of milk, or a cup of my salted caramel hot chocolate from the Keurig.

Slurp.

I may be getting a venison donut burger

I got this lovely note from Nan Rosa of Montgomery in response to last week's Lost Recipes column on venison:

"Dear Shannon,  I loved reading your recipes for venison, old and new. Reminds me of my mother’s kitchen in Mobile, when we would be gifted lovely venison. Tell you what:  if you get me some venison, I’ll make you a venison donut burger, as well as try a recipe or two, depending on poundage received.  I maybe can find the original larding needle mother used to lard the roasts. The best way to get moisture into the meat! Look forward to great eating."

I may have to take you take you up on that, Nan. My brother-in-law works in deer processing, so I'm sure we're going to get some soon.

IF YOU TRY IT

If you decide to try one of these lost recipes please send us a photo and a note on how it went. Send it in an email titled "Lost Recipes" to Montgomery Advertiser reporter Shannon Heupel at sheupel@gannett.com.

This article originally appeared on Montgomery Advertiser: Lost Recipes: What would Emma I. McLagan think of your hot chocolate?