Lots of yum at Maple Street Biscuit Company: Delish waffles, towering breakfast sandwich

JACKSON TWP. − Maple Street Biscuit Company is a national chain with a breakfast-focused menu that manages to taste like a one-of-a-kind, mom-and-pop restaurant.

Even before taking a bite of food, I saw signs of scratch-made goodness in the restaurant. An employee was rolling dough and then forming it into buttermilk biscuits ready for the oven. Another worker was loading oranges into a machine to make fresh-squeezed orange juice.

Deciding what to sample wasn't easy. There were abundant options, including a unique variety of breakfast sandwiches, a host of biscuit-and-gravy dishes, and temping waffles available in different combinations.

A lover of breakfast sandwiches, I opted for one that breaks convention − The Squawking Goat, featured as one of the Food Network's guilty pleasures.

Visually impressive, the sandwich is a skyscraper − freshly-baked, buttery biscuits loaded with large pieces of crispy fried chicken, a goat cheese medallion, and drizzled with pepper jelly, a pool of which formed on the plate. This was an excellent sandwich, clearly standing out from the traditional egg-and-ham or egg-and-sausage varieties.

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Ingredients married and balanced nicely. Chicken was lightly breaded, pieces of the coating flaking off. And the sandwich was hefty, requiring a knife and fork. Goat cheese added creaminess and a contrast in texture. Pepper jelly provided sweetness and a jolt of heat.

The Squawking Goat was so big that I enjoyed half of it at home the next morning.

Light, airy waffles with chocolate gooeyness

Onto the waffles. Fortunately, my 17-year-old daughter wasn't stingy and let me taste a few big bites. Waffles were light, airy and fluffy. Superb. And while the menu didn't tout the waffles as being scratch-made, they tasted the part.

Complementing the dish were strawberries, whipped cream, powdered sugar, and a generous sprinkling of chocolate chips, which added touches of gooeyness.

My wife ordered an old standard − the country fried steak with sausage gravy. A healthy portion covered the plate, with two large pieces of steak, as well as big biscuits.

There was plenty to share. It was my first time trying country fried steak, and while it wasn't the top item I sampled at Maple Street Biscuit Company, the dish was hearty and comforting. Traci also was pleased with it, noting the scratch-made sausage gravy had a spicy kick, while the breading on the meat wasn't too thick.

Smashbrowns are a breakfast potato winner

Also receiving high marks were the smashbrowns − crispy, handheld potatoes flavored with green onions. These were simple but delicious, and a new spin on typical breakfast spuds.

Succumbing to my sweet tooth, I returned to the counter and ordered a biscuit generously covered with sweet icing and flavored with cinnamon chips. It reminded me of the cinnamon raisin biscuits at Hardee's, an all-time favorite morning indulgence of mine. Dismayed when Hardee's discontinued the item nationwide, I enjoyed Maple Street's version, a sweet ending to a highly enjoyable breakfast.

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The food could have been warmer

Next time, I'd be eager to try The Farmer breakfast sandwich, featuring apple butter, fried chicken bacon and cheddar, or the waffle iron-baked omelets available in sausage and cheddar, bacon and cheddar, and pepper and onion. Also tempting were the asiago-bacon waffles, maple meatballs, maple pepper bacon, and "shiitake gravy with a kick," which can be ordered with several items.

Breakfast bowls and traditional style breakfast sandwiches are also offered.

My only criticism is that the waffles and breakfast sandwich arrived at our table neither hot nor noticeably warm. Very disappointing. This puzzled me considering the kitchen was bustling with what appeared to be a large staff.

I assume the dishes waited on a counter for at least a few minutes before a server picked them up.

Maddox the marvel

Customer service, however, compensated for that singular shortcoming. Standout staff included Maddox, a hustler who seemed to do it all − loading the orange juice machine, delivering food to tables both inside and on the patio, bringing us carryout containers for our leftovers, and performing a number of other tasks. He was in constant motion.

Opening earlier this summer in Jackson, Maple Street Biscuit touts its fast casual menu as comfort food with a modern twist. Customers wait in line before ordering at the counter and then taking a seat.

The interior design and decor were pleasant and inviting but not extraordinary. Merchandise for sale and logos and photos on the walls imparted the atmosphere of a chain restaurant, but it certainly isn't a deterrent from dining there.

The look also makes sense considering that Cracker Barrel acquired Maple Street Biscuit Company in 2019. Maple Street has restaurants in 10 states, with the majority of them in the eastern part of the country and several in Texas.

Overall, prices are reasonable for the quality and sizeable portions. Country fried steak was $13; the Sweet Grace waffles cost $9; and The Squawking Goat was $9.25.

However, I regretted ordering the orange juice for $6. Yikes. While the juice tasted fresh, with bits of pulp, that's a lot of money to shell out for what looked like a 16-ounce cup or less.

More of a bargain was the iced biscuit for $2.50. Meanwhile, the smashbrowns were a good buy at two for $2.50 or four for $4.

A limited lunch menu is also available at Maple Street Biscuit Company, 4996 Fulton Drive, located at Shoppes at the Greens. Hours are 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily.

Reach Ed at ebalint@gannett.com and on X (formerly Twitter) ebalint@REP

This article originally appeared on The Repository: Maple Street Biscuit Co. brings the taste with waffles, gravy, spuds