Manhattan restaurateurs are heading to Westchester; it's more affordable, closer to home

Westchester has always drawn Manhattan chefs and restaurateurs to the area. Benjamin Prelvukaj and Benjamin Sinanaj, alumni of Peter Lugar Steakhouse, opened Benjamin Steakhouse in White Plains in 2010; Jean-Georges opened his Inn at Pound Ridge in 2014 and BLT Steak was in White Plains for 11 years. But lately, there is an added surge north due, in large part, say many restaurateurs, to the pandemic and a shift in priorities.

Husband and wife Andrea Calstier and Elena Oliver, who previously owned Papilles in Manhattan’s East Village, are opening La Bastide by Andrea Calstier and Cenadou Bistrot in North Salem soon; Jonathan Aubrey, who hails from Eleven Madison Park, Happy Cooking Hospitality, and Nur, is opening a French bistro called Micheline in Scarsdale with Chef Josh Capone, who was most recently the chef de cuisine at Daniel, sometime in June.

That's on top of at least five other Manhattan transplants, notably Paolo Catini and Alex Kola, who moved their Italian restaurant Basso56 from New York's 56th Street to Chappaqua last May; Nicki Jakupi, who transformed Bistro Le Steak on New York's Upper East Side to Brasserie Le Steak in Larchmont in May; and Marc Taxiera, a longtime chef at The Russian Tea Room who, along with his wife Brianne Myers (a past house/general manager at New York's Loring Place and BLT Steak), opened Augustine’s Salumeria in Mamaroneck last June.

In November 2022, Giovanni Rraci, who worked in Manhattan's restaurant business for decades, opened Ocean Blue Prime in Rye, while Harry Sinanaj, who spent 16 years in New York City restaurants, opened One Rare Italian Steakhouse in Scarsdale in January. Plus, in March, Celebrity Chef David Burke, who for many years worked at Manhattan's iconic River Café, opened Red Horse by David Burke in White Plains.

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Pre-pandemic, Dale Talde, the chef/restaurateur behind such ventures as Massoni in New York's Arlo NoMad Hotel, Rice & Gold at Hotel 50 Bowery in Chinatown and the since closed Talde in Park Slope, opened Goosefeather in Tarrytown in 2019.

That's eight Manhattan transplants in a year.

Pandemic led to shift in thinking

Why the sudden interest in suburbia?

There are no hard statistics to document the shift. But many say a reason they opened in Westchester, or plan to, was because they grew up in Westchester and always thought about a place closer to "home." The other reasons? Affordable rent — with more pandemic deals. And the fact that they want to bring a Manhattan vibe to their neighborhoods while also becoming part of the community.

They also know the Westchester audience is a sophisticated one that's fun to cook for.

For Taxiera, who grew up in Westchester, the reason he opened in Mamaroneck boils down to all of the above. "The pandemic gave us free time to think and really re-evaulate some decisions," he said. "Opening in Westchester was always on our radar but it definitely put us on a faster track than we might have before COVID."

For Aubrey, the reason to open in Scarsdale is as simple as wanting to bring something new to the area that's closer to where he currently lives (and spent time as a kid). "I don't see anything else like what I'm planning here," he said. "I'm not just living here, I want to share my passion for food with my community and become part of the community."

Sinanaj of One Rare Italian Steakhouse, who spent 18 years as an owner in New York City and is still part-owner of Ben & Jack’s Steakhouse on 44th Street, shared a similar sentiment. "I think COVID and 2020 shifted a lot of people's perspectives, including mine.

"There are still a lot of people working from home or on hybrid schedules," he said. "But they still want that New York feeling and we think One Rare Italian Steakhouse offers that."

There's also the indisputable fact that rents are less expensive than in Manhattan. And, with so many restaurants closing due to the pandemic, there have been a variety of attractive opportunities that didn't exist before.

Advantages to suburbia

Another driver has been quality of life, which made numerous chefs and restaurant owners rethink their priorities and ditch the long commutes into Manhattan.

Summed up Taxiera: "We wanted to get out of the grind of the City after being there for 20 years and make our mark here," he said.

Many also liked that moving to Westchester wasn't too far a leap from their clientele. Some are staying close to train stations. Augustine's Salumeria, for example, is across from the Mamaroneck train station. One Rare Italian Steakhouse is across from the Scarsdale station, with Micheline just down the street. Diners can also easily walk to Brassiere Le Steak from Larchmont's Metro North Station, as they can from Chappaqua's to Basso56.

Alex Kola, who co-owns Basso56 with chef Paolo Catini, said much of their New York City clientele was from Westchester and Connecticut so opening in northern Westchester made sense. "We had always thought about opening in the suburbs but the pandemic made it a reality," he said.

Since opening in Westchester last May, he said they've been more relaxed. "Having a restaurant in Westchester is not as intense as the City," Kola said. "We have more time to talk to our customers and explain our philosophy about food, and wine."

That said, he admitted, the adjustment was a little difficult at first, mainly due to staffing issues. "Now that we've been here a year, it's gotten easier," he said.

Community rules

At the end of the day, it's all about community — building it, nurturing it, becoming part of it — say chefs and restaurateurs, who also cite the increased level of sophistication among diners that keeps them challenged.

The fact that others have come from Manhattan also helps drives them. "I see the caliber of chefs that are here and feel we're in great company," said Taxiera.

Added Talde of Goosefeather: "The tide rises all boats and I think that there's so many former Manhattan folks opening here is good for everyone.

"The level and quality is getting better with everyone stepping up their game to keep innovating."

Jeanne Muchnick covers food and dining. Click here for her most recent articles and follow her latest dining adventures on Instagram @lohud_food or via the lohudfood newsletter. 

This article originally appeared on Rockland/Westchester Journal News: Manhattan chefs, restaurateurs opening places in Westchester NY