Martin Grant RTW Fall 2022
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Martin Grant always likes to punctuate his collections with an outlier — a statement eveningwear piece that stands out from his signature timeless designs.
This season, he felt like throwing in a red taffeta opera cape, a seemingly random choice considering that most of the lineup consisted of classic jackets and trenchcoats with a ‘60s tinge. When news of André Leon Talley’s death broke, on the eve of Grant’s showroom appointments, the cape displayed on a mannequin suddenly felt like a tribute.
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“I’ve made so many capes for him in the past,” the Australian designer said. “He was the king of capes. They were all custom-made. He’d call different designers for different occasions. I did him black ones in heavy felted wool with Napoleonic collars, and they weighed a ton.”
Grant recalled that Talley helped launch his career, encouraging him to hold his first show in Paris, inviting top editors and corralling Naomi Campbell to walk in it. “He orchestrated the whole thing, so he actually sat there and commented and told the models what to wear,” he said. “So it was like this interactive fashion show, and of course, everyone loved it, because he was so hilarious.”
These days, Grant caters privately to a loyal clientele of actresses and socialites who rely on him for chic wardrobe basics.
Outerwear is his forte, and this season’s offerings included a reversible jacket, in double-faced cotton with a houndstooth pattern on one side, and an archival burgundy duffle coat with a cocoon back. Daywear ranged from a simple gray sweatshirt dress to chic wide-legged pants and a citrine-colored midi skirt for transitioning into spring.
And if that is just a little too low-key, there is always that scarlet cape.
Launch Gallery: Martin Grant RTW Fall 2022
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