Melange Café chef Joe Brown revives memories, recipes of closed restaurants in new book
Chef Joe Brown opened the popular Melange Café on Chapel Avenue in Cherry Hill in 1995.
Over the years, the cozy restaurant was known for its crab cakes, jambalaya, bread pudding, crab cheesecake and other Creole-style cuisine with an Italian flare.
In 2007, the Willingboro native opened a second location in Haddonfield on Tanner Street. He opted to close the Cherry Hill location in 2010 and focus on the Haddonfield restaurant. But, unfortunately, the latter was abruptly closed in 2013 due to tax issues.
His new book “Melange: The Story, The Recipes, The Faith” references both of his former restaurants, including some of the highs and lows. It’s also filled with about 75 recipes, including things like oxtail or short rib stew, Chef Joe shrimp and grits, lemon cream cheese pound cake, pecan pie and much more.
The back of the book states: “I have always been the type of person that as long as you’re happy, then I’m happy, too. I think that’s why I became a chef because I saw that look on people’s faces after enjoying a great meal. That look said happy and satisfied. I then realized that food changes your every emotion.”
For years now, the Sicklerville resident and Willingboro native has been the culinary & food bank director/executive chef at the Harvest Café & Abundant Harvest Catering for Bethany Baptist Church in Lindenwold.
His recipes have been featured over the years in "Cooking Light" "Culinary Trends," "Ebony," "Black Enterprise" and more. He has also appeared on the Food Network, National Geographic Channel and the Discovery Network.
He published a cookbook in 2002 called "Joe Brown’s Melange Café Cookbook".
A married father and now grandfather, Brown, who attended the Restaurant School in Philadelphia, seems to be at peace with his current life. He doesn’t necessarily envision having another restaurant, but doesn’t mind sharing advice for others who might have those aspirations.
We spoke with Brown about his new book and about what he’s been up to.
Question: You wrote a cookbook, that is much more than a cookbook. Tell me about “Melange” and the impetus behind you writing it?
A: When I abruptly closed, I never got a chance to tell my side of the story, and also I want people to understand that you will always have obstacles and that there always is a bigger plan.
Q: I know Melange was the name of your Cherry Hill and Haddonfield restaurants. Where did the name come from?
A: After spending some time in New Orleans, I noticed the melting pot of food and cultures there, pretty much how I grew up in Willingboro; the word melange means mixture in French, and the mixture is the two cuisines — Louisiana and Italian.
Q: Who were your big cooking influences when you were younger?
A: My mother. I was the youngest of 10. She was always cooking something. Also I used to watch the "The Galloping Gourmet" with Graham Kerr.
Q: Speaking of cookbooks, "Melange" is your second one. How many recipes do you think you have and tell me two or three of your favorites?
A: The first book had more recipes but not as many stories. The favorite from the first book is the crabmeat cheesecake, and the second book has about 75 recipes. I love the oxtail and black pea soup, the stuffed eggplant is a winner and the lemon pound cake.
Q: I recall going to Melange’ Café in Cherry Hill multiple times over the years. What are a few of your good memories of that restaurant?
A: The Fat Tuesday celebrations every year, the hot chef group, Restaurant week being crazy busy, and the first day we opened the doors in 1995.
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Q: What are a few of the stories in the book that you want people to know or that were important for you to tell?
A: The story about having the right person to do (public relations) for you and your business, the story when I was being recognized by the AKAs as the entrepreneur of the year, you never know who is watching you.
Q: Do you ever regret closing the Cherry Hill location and focusing on the Haddonfield one? Do you think Melange would still be around had you stayed in Cherry Hill?
A: I have no regrets. I think it was time to move on, because the landlord did not want to sell the building and I could not put any more money into it. I don’t think I would have stayed at that location.
Q: You have been the executive chef at Bethany Baptist Church for quite a few years now. What is it like cooking for a megachurch and how have things been different during the pandemic?
A: Cooking for the church is exciting and challenging at the same time, exciting because there is always some type of event going on so I get a chance to do a lot of unique things with food. Our Bishop (David Evans) and pastors have very distinguished tastes. Challenging because I am tasked with teaching volunteers. All of my staff are volunteers except my sous chef, and my gift of teaching comes into play. I teach front of the house and back of the house. As far as the pandemic, we totally shifted to an online menu where you can order online food to pick up curbside at the church. Some of the Melange favorites appear on the menu. The church is just getting back up to speed after COVID.
Q: When you’re home with your family on a Friday night, what’s your favorite meal to cook?
A: Fresh homemade pasta with some sort of seafood and a nice salad.
Q: Would you like to own a restaurant again one day or is that something that is in your past?
A: My wife and I have thought about it, but there would be a lot of convincing her; she enjoys me being home on a Friday or Saturday night. I would be happy to advise anyone on what to do and not to do. We are just happy to see anyone else open a restaurant we are going to enjoy our son and granddaughter for now.
Q: These pandemic years have been tough on the restaurant industry. What advice would you give restaurateurs?
A: Keep reinventing yourself so that you can fit the times, food is always changing and so are people. Hire and train your staff because they are your first and last impression for your guest.
Celeste E. Whittaker is a news features reporter for the Courier Post, Daily Journal and Burlington County Times. The South Jersey native started at the CP in 1998 and has covered the Philadelphia 76ers, college and high school sports and has won numerous awards for her work. Reach her by email at cwhittaker@gannettnj.com. Follow her on Twitter at @cp_CWhittaker.
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This article originally appeared on Cherry Hill Courier-Post: SJ chef Joe Brown dishes recipes and stories in new book
