Memorial service planned as local chef is remembered for compassion, business savvy

A celebration of life will be held for chef and restaurateur James Smith on Monday, Aug. 7, 2023.
A celebration of life will be held for chef and restaurateur James Smith on Monday, Aug. 7, 2023.

James Smith’s family has planned a memorial service for the chef and restaurateur who died Sunday. It will take place on Monday, Aug. 7 at one of his restaurants, Smoke on the Water at 3704 Watercraft Ferry Ave. in Wilmington's Riverlights community. Smith’s brother Dustin Smith said that this celebration of life will take place 5-9 p.m. and is open to the public. There's also an ongoing virtual food drive in his honor with NourishNC.

News of Smith’s sudden death following a home accident resulted in remembrances from many of the friends Smith has made after years in the local service industry.

Gary Coleman said that he would often chat with Smith and got to know him well ever since he opened Cape Fear Spice Merchants in downtown Wilmington in 2014. As two small businesses owners, Coleman said they discussed issues both serious and fun.

“We both had an admiration for great Creole/Cajun food and Grand Mariner,” Coleman said. “One of my favorite memories was when he made gumbo at the Carolina Beach restaurant and made sure Sue and I got a bowl to see ‘if it was right.’ It was. I asked how long it took him to get the roux that dark and he said, ‘three beers, that's how my dad did it.’”

Smith was also credited with helping change the local food scene.

“His impact was greater than himself,” said Chris Menker, of Advantage Wine. “He wrote the food truck regulations that have allowed the vibrant food truck community we now have. James always came at everything with a level of compassion. It was always about the greater community.”

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Amy Siler, of Epicurean Bistro, said that she and Smith bonded over their work in the restaurant business.

“The force behind the creation and execution of restaurants goes fairly unnoticed. Those of us who attempt it are brave at best,” she said. “When I was at my lowest, he was there to lift me up.”

The Facebook group Eat, Drink and Be Wary has also organized a virtual food drive in Smith's honor with NourishNC. The organization, located at 3606 Market St., helps food-insecure children in the Wilmington area through a number of programs, including offering food-filled backpacks and partnering with local pediatric offices for their Food Farmacy program.

Monday's memorial service will offer beverages and appetizers. Smith’s restaurants, which also include Fork-N-Cork locations in Wilmington and Carolina Beach, will be closed during that time.

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Allison Ballard is the food and dining reporter at the StarNews. You can reach her at aballard@gannett.com.

This article originally appeared on Wilmington StarNews: Memorial service for James Smith of Fork-N-Cork, Smoke on the Water