Memphis pitmaster part of program to invest in future of Black barbecue culture

Memphis pitmaster Ronald Payne of Payne’s Bar-B-Q is one of six barbecue professionals chosen for Kingsford’s Preserve the Pit fellows program.

Fellows chosen from across the industry include pitmasters, caterers, restaurant owners and the program’s first digital storytellers. Payne is the only Memphian in the 2023 class, which was announced May 15.

Kingsford created the Preserve the Pit program in 2020 to celebrate and invest in the future of Black barbecue culture.

During the year-long program, each fellow will receive immersive training, the fuel and ingredients to celebrate their selection with a barbecue in their home communities, a grant to help support their business goals and one-on-one mentorship from a network of industry leaders and experts, as they invest in preserving the future of Black barbecue culture.

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Continuing the Payne family legacy

Ronald Payne is a third-generation pitmaster of the Memphis barbecue institution, Payne’s Bar-B-Q.

Since 1972, Payne’s has been serving up its signature chopped pork sandwich and famous mustard sauce that attracts barbecue aficionados from across the world. Today, Payne works the pit alongside his mother, Flora Payne, and sister, Candice Payne-Parker, as they preserve 51 years of history first ignited by his father, mother and grandmother.

“It’s about preserving my family’s business,” said Payne of his reason to apply for this program. “It’s about keeping Black barbecue alive and making sure my family’s business lasts well into the future.”

In honor of its 50th anniversary, Payne's was featured in Preserve the Pit's 2022 Black History Month promotion. A mural designed by artist Brandan “Bmike” Odums was painted on the side of the restaurant and featured on a special edition bag of Kingsford charcoal.

It was from this 2022 promotion that Payne said he learned about the Preserve the Pit program and made the decision to apply to be a fellow.

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The new Preserve the Pit class, along with their mentor partners, came together at this week's Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, where they had the chance to share their stories in person, learn from each other's grilling expertise and further connect over their love for barbecue.

The group kicked off the weekend’s celebration with a welcome dinner at Alcenia’s, a soul food restaurant in Downtown Memphis. On Friday morning, the group met at Payne’s for a breakfast of chopped pork sliders before heading to a day of activities at the barbecue contest in Tom Lee Park.

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Former Memphian Pat Neely is one of the mentors for the program. While in Memphis, Neely co-owned the famous Neely’s BBQ restaurants and co-hosted the Food Network show “Down Home with The Neelys.” Today, Neely lives in Atlanta and is part of The Grilling TV Network on YouTube. It’s his second year as a mentor for the Preserve the Pit program.

“We are mentoring young and aspiring barbecue pitmasters. These people know how to cook barbecue — we are helping with things like marketing, accounting, the business side,” Neely said. “It is so rewarding to be an elder and mentoring this next generation. I wish I had this opportunity when I was younger.”

The list of 2023 Class of Preserve the Pit fellows also includes: Caleb and Sabrina Henley of Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice in Pilot Point, Texas; Darren W. Carter of Carter’s BBQ in Euclid, Ohio; Tay Nelson of Bobby’s BBQ in Fountain Inn, South Carolina; Deah Berry Mitchell, a fifth-generation Texan, historian and food writer from Dallas; and Nate Figaro, the owner of 8020 Creole BBQ & Rub in Knightdale, North Carolina.

Kingsford opened applications for the third year of the Preserve the Pit fellowship in February, announcing Rasheed Philips as the newest member to join Kingsford and its mentor network which includes Kevin Bludso, Dr. Howard Conyers, Amy Mills, Bryan Furman, Rashad Jones, Devita Davison and Neely.

“The program is really wonderful," said Mills, a longtime competitor at the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest and the owner of 17th Street Barbecue in Marion, Illinois. It’s her third time to mentor for Preserve the Pit. "It’s really the most meaningful work I have done in the past years."

Jennifer Chandler is the Food & Dining reporter at The Commercial Appeal. She can be reached at jennifer.chandler@commercialappeal.com and you can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @cookwjennifer. 

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This article originally appeared on Memphis Commercial Appeal: Kingsford's Preserve the Pit fellows includes Memphis pitmaster