Memphis Whistle: What to expect at new Cooper-Young cocktail lounge, from drinks to décor
Memphis Whistle has a tagline: "The best thing to come out of 2020." And if you've ever had one of owner Jef Hicks' cocktails, you might just agree.
Hicks launched Memphis Whistle back in fall 2020 as a to-go and delivery cocktail service. Now, his bar concept has a permanent home.
Memphis Whistle has taken over the Cooper-Young home at 2299 Young Ave. that once housed Chef Tam's Underground Cafe. The building exterior has been repainted a vibrant New Orleans-inspired purple, and the interior has been transformed into a welcoming lounge.
The cocktail bar officially opened Jan. 18. It was open for food service only in December while awaiting its liquor license.
The drinks at Memphis Whistle
As Hicks stands behind the bar talking about his cocktails, his passion for his craft comes shining through.
He has been behind a bar on and off for more than three decades. “I first got behind the bar when I was trying to fund my way through college. On the second night as a server, I got thrown behind the bar,” Hicks said. Over the years, he has worked in numerous Memphis bars and restaurants.
While he can make an excellent traditional cocktail, we recommend trying one of his original creations.
When making Bruleed Bourbon Sour for a customer, he explained how the egg white in this unique spin on a Pisco Sour adds a silkiness to the drink, plus allows him to brulee the top.
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And don’t shy away from one of his infused cocktails.
In addition to bottles of alcohol, jars and bottles of his own concoctions line the shelves. Hicks uses seasonal fruits and locally grown herbs to infuse alcohols, as well as makes his own shrubs and syrups for his cocktails.
Some of the original offerings include a spicy and vegetal vodka for Bloody Marys. “It has tomatillos, horseradish root, sun-dried tomatoes, okra and seven different peppers, plus lots of other ingredients. It is so good with my Bloody Mary mix,” said Hicks, adding the kitchen adds the vodka to its “grown-up” Blood Mary tomato soup and grilled cheese combo.
Fans of Memphis Whistle delivery service will be glad to see favorites like "Apparently" (a blend of Asian pears, green cardamom, a touch of ginger and fresh lime mixed with bourbon) and "The Purple Drink" (Butterfly pea blossom-infused gin, lemon, lime and a lavender shrub) remain on the menu.
The food at Memphis Whistle
As for the food, Kyle Gairhan is in charge of the offerings. The menu features hearty fare like sandwiches, burgers and chili-topped tater tots.
"We will be smoking brisket and pulled pork in house," Hicks said. "We are also trying to buy local ingredients when we can. You have to try the Lion's Mane Nuggets made from Bluff City Fungi mushrooms."
Hicks' wife, Amanda, also contributes to the menu offerings. She does a lot of the baking, including their Mardi Gras offering of individual-sized King Cakes topped with a cream cheese icing flavored with Hicks' cinnamon bark-infused rum.
The couple recruited their longtime friend Winifred Henry (Hicks and Winifred worked together at the North End close to 30 years ago) to also help out. “I am having so much dadgum fun. Jef and Amanda needed help and I loved his dream,” said Henry, adding she initially came back to Memphis for a driftwood art installation on the side of the restaurant and decided to stay.
On opening day, Henry offered a special of her Grandmother’s Chicken and Dumplings served with a wedge of homemade cornbread topped with Cinnamon Brown Sugar Honey Butter.
Hicks explained while Gairhan is on charge of the kitchen, they all contribute to the offerings.
“Our plan is to work with local chefs to help them get on their feet and make a name for themselves,” he said. “I really want to support others. I want us all to get out of this pandemic and be OK.”
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Come in and relax a spell
Within the front four rooms of the former home, Jef and Amanda Hicks have created four unique dining and lounge areas. Each painted in vibrant colors and decorated with an eclectic New Orleans vibe. Moody colored lights create a lounge-like atmosphere.
Original artwork from Memphis artists is intermixed with the Hickses' own unique pieces of décor.
The front two rooms have traditional table seating, while a back room has sofas and a chaise lounge perfect for lounging while enjoying cocktails.
“We have TV trays if someone wants to eat in this room,” said Hicks, as he pointed to a set of vintage wooden TV trays.
A fourth room houses the bar. Several bar stools line the handcrafted bar, welcoming guests to sit a spell and visit with Hicks as he creates his masterpiece libations.
Hicks did a lot of the renovations to the structure himself. “I wanted to use as much from the neighborhood as a I could,” said Hicks as he pointed to the bar front that has been built from an old wooden door he found in Cooper-Young.
Hicks said he plans for herb and vegetable gardens outdoors once the weather warms up. “We hope to implement teaching gardens on-site to show that growing your own food in a small space is possible,” he said.
Memphis Whistle will be open every day but Monday. “We are definitely open on Sundays,” he said. “We have to be open for Sunday Fun Days.”
Jennifer Chandler is the Food & Dining reporter at The Commercial Appeal. She can be reached at jennifer.chandler@commercialappeal.com and you can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @cookwjennifer.
At a glance
Memphis Whistle
Where: 2299 Young Ave.
Hours: 2-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 2 p.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday; 2-10 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday
Phone: (901) 236-7136
Online: memphiswhistle.com
This article originally appeared on Memphis Commercial Appeal: A look at new Memphis Whistle bar, restaurant opening in Cooper-Young
