Can Miami handle Detroit-style pizza? This new Design District pizzeria thinks so
The legend of Detroit pizza — square in shape, airy in crust, sauce on top — says that the pies took on their appearance because intrepid pizza makers baked them in the blue steel industrial pans favored by the city’s auto workers.
The pizzas at Square Pie City, the new pizzeria in the Design District, don’t use blue steel pans. But Chef Jeremiah Bullfrog does make what he calls “hybrid” pizzas that mimic his favorite Detroit practices.
“The hybrid comes from flavor memories I have of eating Sicilian square-slice pizza in Long Island,” says the chef, who was born and raised in Miami-Dade and known for working as rapper Rick Ross’ private chef and for appearances on such Food Network shows as “Chopped” and “Cutthroat Kitchen.” “The crispy sides have the cheese baked into them. The caramelizing from the high temperature and the sugar from the cheese becomes crispy. It’s super delicious.”
Square Pie City, now open in its first brick-and-mortar space in the former home of Harry’s Pizzeria in Miami’s Design District, began its life as a series of pop-ups, starting at the late, lamented Boxelder in Wynwood. Square Pie City began popping up in other spots around Miami, including at Babe’s Meat & Counter, where it buys sausage, bacon and other meat.
The concept then opened at Time Out Market Miami food hall in Miami Beach but closed in May of 2022 to make for the ultimate goal: a standalone restaurant that leans heavily on takeout.
Bullfrog is happy with the new Design District location.
“We love being centrally located,” he says. “I’ve always been this East side, downtown guy. And we love the fact that people are walking over from their houses to come grab a pie.”
Bullfrog considers the new venue as a pizzeria, not a restaurant (though you are welcome to stay and eat your bubbling hot bounty there with a local craft beer, glass of wine or a cocktail from a program designed by Mike Parish, formerly of Broken Shaker). Eating here is a laid-back experience: Order at the counter, and don’t be shy about asking the pizza maker for a well-done pie or to go light on the pepperoni (as if anyone ever wants to go light on the pepperoni).
Bullfrog loves this sort of casual, slice shop interaction.
“We’re introducing this slice shop culture to Miami,” he says. “There’s no pretension about it.”
Square Pie City is so much about the pizza there isn’t much else on the menu, only a chopped salad and a Caesar salad (both $13), plus cannoli for dessert ($2.50-$12). The pizzas come as half pie (four slices, $17-$25) and full pie (six slices, $25-34) with such options as pepperoni, meat lovers’, vegetable. Specialty pizzas include Red in the Head, Fire in Bed with spicy Calabrian chile, mozzarella and provolone and All White E’rrything, a white pizza with ricotta and a white sauce created with leftover whey from straining cheese (which adds creaminess).
Bullfrog is also developing a smaller, 6” by 6” pizza to cater to the lunchtime crowd.
“You come in for lunch, you get two slices and a Coke, you’re in and out in 15 minutes,” he says. “Or you can sit and enjoy the culture of the slice.”
Square Pie City
Where: 3918 North Miami Ave., Miami
Hours: Noon-3 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; 3-9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
More information: www.squarepiecity.com
