Michael Kors' Utopian Glory

Godfrey Deeny
FWD101 Model walks the runway at the Michael Kors show during Spring 2013 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York on Wednesday, September 12, 2012. (Fashion Wire Daily/Gruber)

The most accomplished show in the current New York fashion week has to be Michael Kors, whose exuberant Sixties slick chic collection won the most thunderous applause for any show this season.

Before a packed audience in Lincoln Center on Wednesday, Sept. 12, the catwalk rocked from the opening passage - a couple in dramatic horizontal stripe jerseys; their midriffs dissected by bold belts, their faces emboldened by massive aviator glasses.

Kors kept the mood graphic throughout, particularly with some fantastic Der Stijl like dresses with dramatic rectangular color blocks. With all the insouciance of the Sixties, Kors cut cocktails trim and finished with high court judge collar, and completed sleek women's coats with curvy lapels and beautiful Verner Panton era ergonomic belt buckles.

"Isn't that what every woman really wants, a front row coat?" laughed the designer backstage, where a small mob of fans waited to shower him in compliments. Kors was in an understandably ebullient mood: his stock market flotation has probably been the most successful ever in fashion; his shows have never been more assured.

For guys - since Kors always shows men and women on his catwalks - he suggested nautical dandy yachting jackets and two-tone stiff cotton coats.

After a dynamic score of opening looks, a couple of cloud formation print designs didn't quite work, but they were a rare squiggle in an otherwise flawless collection, which also included superb micro check suits, beach windbreaker stripe jackets and many sure-fired winner metallic leather handbags.

When asked amid the throng of fans by one enthusiast backstage how he felt about being "the four billion dollar man," Kors chuckled: "All I think about is work, work, work and work!"