Milton's Blackwater Bistro is changing, but owners say it is for the best

Milton’s Blackwater Bistro is filled to the brim with history. The restaurant, a former family residence from the early 1900s, has been transformed into one of Milton’s go-to spots for elevated dining in the area.

While the restaurant embraces preserving its history — original flooring, walls and windows still intact — it is seeing a modern twist with the addition of Jason Brewer as the new culinary director of operations.

Brewer made a name for himself at Pace’s Bar515 Cocktails & Tapas where he shined in creating playful tapas and uniquely composed entrees. Under Brewer’s leadership, Bar515 earned the best restaurant award in the Pace/Miton area in the 2022 Best of the Bay awards. Brewer himself won the Best Chef category for 2022.

Brewer's experience as a professional chef goes back over 25 years. He has gained experience from different cities and chefs, such as world-renowned celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse at Delmonico Steakhouse, that he has brought with him to Pensacola.

The current Blackwater menu is built on country classics, like the hearty Mom’s Meatloaf, Chicken Pot Pie loaded with country veggies and a deep-dish Marie’s Lasagna. But Brewer plans to add more modernized, elevated options to the menu to keep even the regular customers on their toes.

Blackwater Bistro owners Paul and Pam Kilmartin are excited to see the restaurant evolving as Milton does, “finally becoming a destination we always thought it would be.”

“We are thrilled to have Jason be part of the Bistro family,” the Kilmartins wrote in a statement. “His reputation and experience speaks for itself. Jason’s reputation and expertise will take the Bistro from a good restaurant — to a great restaurant.”

Brewer said he has big plans for Blackwater Bistro’s future.

“Basically, what I’m coming in to do is enhancing — doing everything I possibly can to work with the team to enhance people’s dining experience,” Brewer said. “I feel like the restaurant is doing amazing and has a lot of hidden potential that we haven’t cracked into yet. … The staff, the owners, the management — everybody here has just been open arms welcoming to me.”

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What changes are coming for Blackwater Bistro?

Brewer will be starting off slowly with introducing weekend dinner specials before he touches the permanent menu. Over the next few months he will sift through the menu’s best hits to see what should stay or go.

He has a loyal crew ready to learn, some who have been with the restaurant since its conception, who can help execute dishes the restaurant has not seen before.

For his first dinner feature that debuted last week, he worked with his staff on a pan-seared triggerfish with smoked green tomato gazpacho, roasted fingerling potatoes and a cilantro and lime crema. This week, he has a braised lamb shank with sun-dried tomato feta polenta in the works.

“With the equipment and everything we have here, I have the opportunity to do a lot crazier kind of specials and dinner features that can really showcase the abilities of the staff here and try to bring in more of a clientele,” Brewer said.

Not only does he plan to enhance the menu’s complexity, but also to incorporate more local ingredients into the dishes. His long-term goal is to create a menu that changes every season with rotating items.

He would also like to increase the variety of fresh fish and specialty meats.

“I was talking to staff the other day, it’s like, ‘We’ve all been out to dinner, we’ve all heard the same song and dance for years and years and years. How can you make yourself stick out? How can you make us stick out giving just a little bit more touch that they can’t get anywhere else?’” Brewer said.

Brewer said he also plans to take some of the house cocktails to the next level to make Blackwater Bistro a place to enjoy a craft cocktail in the city.

He said the current menu has a variety of popular drinks, but he would like to add some special touches, like muddled fruits and smoked glasses.

“The craft cocktail, speakeasy style bar is what is popular right now, and it’s not going anywhere,” Brewer said. “The bar staff here is very, very good and they’re very knowledgeable.”

Even as the menu gets some upgrades, he plans to hold onto the same comfortable atmosphere that makes it a favorite spot for family friendly get-togethers, friend celebrations or date nights.

“I want to be able to do that style of food, but then I want people to come in and not have that uptight fine-dining atmosphere,” Brewer said. “If you come in here in a pair of shorts and a tank top, or you come in here in a suit — you’re going to get treated the same and you’re going to enjoy your food."

Follow the Blackwater Bistro Facebook page for further updates and information.

This article originally appeared on Pensacola News Journal: Milton’s Blackwater Bistro gets menu upgrade under new chef, director