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The Missoni show started one hour late, giving the extended Missoni family — from a bulldog to a baby in safety headphones — ample time to visit with each other and mill about in their colorful layers of space-dyed knitwear. Among this tall and handsome group was Angela Missoni, who earlier this year ceded the creative direction after 24 years and handed the reins to Alberto Caliri, her “right hand” for the past 12 years.
Caliri opened his show with a pair of loose, faded jeans with some signature knitwear inserted above the back pockets — and a sparkly bra top with long trains that kicked up gray dust on the crumbling, cement floor of a vast warehouse.
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Here was a sexier, grittier Missoni — and it looked great.
Adding clear sequins to knitwear patterns we’ve seen a zillion times was a clever move, and they looked fantastic on pert minidresses — and even better on longer, slinkier disco dresses with their penultimate zigzags elegantly shredded.
It’s incredible how recognizable Missoni knitwear is — and the itsy bitsy, teeny weenie string bikinis proved it even better than the terra-cotta and black leather coat paved with the brand’s logo.
A 1970s vibe is gathering steam in Milan, and Caliri’s take was original and sleek, hinged on high heels, low-slung pants and barely there, scarf-like tops. Crinkled trench coats with a whiff of Alber Elbaz-era Lanvin and roomy suede jeans jackets set everything off nicely.
Caliri also chopped up various knitwear patterns into geometric patchworks for sweaters and tube dresses, which also made you realize this is not your mother’s Missoni.
According to market sources, Missoni has recruited a new creative director and Caliri’s tenure at the top is considered “ad interim.”
It’s a shame so many editors raced out of the venue before the models had finished the finale walk, and Caliri emerged for his bow. He deserved more applause and respect. Well done, Alberto!
Launch Gallery: Missoni RTW Spring 2022