A landmark cafe is changing hands in the Fort Worth Stockyards, and maybe a bar too
The 90-year-old Star Cafe, a chicken-fried steak landmark that opened in the heyday of the Fort Worth Stockyards livestock market and meat packinghouses, has its second new owner in two years as north side development continues to boom.
Drew Boatman, owner or partner in six bars across north, west and south Fort Worth. said he has bought the traditional Texas-themed restaurant and bar at 111 W. Exchange Ave. and plans to restore the old-time cafe feel while improving the selection of spirits and cocktails.
Boatman said he also hopes to eventually take over the downstairs Basement Bar, the “World’s Smallest Honky-Tonk.”
Recent cafe owner Chris Flores had been adding more expensive steaks to compete with higher-end Stockyards restaurants. Boatman said he wants to dial that back and focus on daily lunches and dinners along with weekend breakfasts and drinks.
“The Star’s food is amazing and I love the cafe style — I’m keeping that the same,” Boatman said.
Nothing will change for now, he said.
The annual Stock Show and Rodeo will start Jan. 12 in west Fort Worth, and many of the expected 1 million-plus visitors will also come to the Stockyards 2 miles north.
The Star originally opened in the 1930s as Edna’s Star Cafe but opened and closed often through several changes, including a 1970s stint as a Black-eyed Pea Restaurant.
An accountant and salesman for Superior Meat Co., Don Boles, brought the Star back in July 1980. It built a reputation for inexpensive steaks rubbed with lemon and garlic and for chicken-fried steaks.
Flores had expanded the hours to serve lunch and dinner daily along with breakfasts on weekends to serve Fort Worth Herd morning visitors, residents and hotel guests nearby.
Boatman plans to add a weekend late-night menu, he said.
He likes the chicken-fried chicken and burgers, he said.
Boatman also owns all or part of the forthcoming Boatmans Yacht Club bar, 301 W. Exchange Ave., along with west side bars Bodega West 7th and Dirty Laundry and south side bars Jackie O’s Cocktail Club, Pinky’s Champagne Room and Rusty Nickel IceHouse.
The Star Cafe has been ranked by Star-Telegram readers as among the top choices for chicken-fried steak. The top sirloin was also ranked the city’s best midprice steak.
The cafe has one big advantage over other restaurants on East Exchange Avenue and Mule Alley: West Exchange has plenty of street parking that isn’t blocked for the cattle drive.
West Exchange Avenue has become coveted real estate lately with crowds swarming the new Mule Alley shopping complex nearby and to see the remaining set for the Paramount+ series “1883.”
“Yellowstone” executive Taylor Sheridan and partners have bought old-school Cattlemen’s Steak House and are investing $3 million to remodel the basement events area and add a patio.
The Star is open from 11 a.m. weekdays, from 9 a.m. weekends; 817-624-8701, facebook.com/starcafefortworthtx.
