MSGM RTW Spring 2020

Booth Moore

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For a young fashion label, surviving — let alone thriving — for 10 years is no small feat, especially in Italy, land of so many old luxury giants. So MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti celebrated by being the first to hold a fashion show in the garden of the contemporary Triennale Museum in Milan, to be followed by an evening celebration of a new Milan flagship in the Brera district.

Show-goers couldn’t help but sit up straight and pay attention to the runway painted neon yellow for the contemporary designer, who has blazed a trail by harnessing the Millennial energy of Milan and selling it to the world through his own collections celebrating the city’s hotspots and skylines on scarves and sweatshirts, and through collaborations with everyone from Toilet Paper magazine to Eastpak and Fila.

Backstage he said he was feeling good: “After 10 years I really love my job and maybe I love fashion even more than in the beginning.” He used the anniversary as an opportunity to reassert his brand codes — including tulle, bows, ruffles, print, flowers, fringe and lace, even reaching back to the first collection to reuse an archival lace on a softly tailored pantsuit in a punchy shade of pink.

While many luxury brands here, including Versace and Fendi, seem to be moving in a more contemporary direction, showing logo T-shirts, sweatshirts, sneakers, mini-bags and charms to appeal to a younger customer, Giorgetti elevated his aesthetic this season. He served up ladylike fare for young women, which managed to exude both dressed-up Italian glamour and down-to-earth dolce vita.

One example: a tweed lady suit in neon yellow and pink with Bermuda shorts instead of a skirt, worn with a pink blouse with not one but three playful oversize bows in front. Another power pink statement blouse, with balloon sleeves and ruffled collar, topped slim denim shorts, tube socks and slingbacks.

A blurred rose floral taffeta cape-coat; pink draped and fringed silk asymmetric dress; orange-crush sweater with a pink knit round collar over a pink tulle skirt — all these spoke to the designer’s joyful color sense. And all the painterly shirts and totes featuring beach-y portraits of women by one of his favorite artists, Todd Bienvenu reflected the easygoing sensibility he cultivated in his coastal hometown of Rimini. (Same with the cute, colorful raffia-trimmed shoes.)

A finale of puff-sleeve minidresses in a garden’s worth of florals drove home the brand vision to bring fine, Made In Italy fabrics and style to women — for a price.

“I want people to be able to afford it,” he said. “MSGM is at the end clothes, clothes for real life.”

Launch Gallery: MSGM RTW Spring 2020

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