Must Read: Saint Laurent's Beachside Runway Highlights the Environmental Cost of Fashion Shows, How Sub-Brands Grow up to Out-Perform Their Parents

Dara Prant

Plus, Billie Eilish fronts MCM's Fall 2019 campaign.

A look from the Spring 2020 Men's Saint Laurent show in Malibu. Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Wednesday.

Saint Laurent's beachside runway highlights the environmental cost of fashion shows
Saint Laurent's beachside Spring 2020 menswear show allegedly violated a number of environmental regulations that protect Malibu's fragile natural resources, raising questions about luxury brands' responsibilities when they hold runway spectacles in extravagant destinations. The French label built a boardwalk all the way across the beach and shored it up with plastic sandbags, which are illegal in the city. {Vogue Business

How sub-brands grow up to out-perform their parents 
Madewell and Old Navy are perfect examples of sub-brands that grew up to out-perform their parents. They began as a way for retailers to expand their customer base, but eventually shoppers started to abandon the original. Because it is more innovative and in-tune with what consumers want, Madewell became more dominant than J.Crew. Meanwhile, Old Navy stole the show from Gap since it's better aligned with rising consumer expectations of value for money and its cheaper price point. {RetailDive}  

Billie Eilish fronts MCM's Fall 2019 campaign
Billie Eilish is the star of MCM's Fall 2019 campaign, which is the first by the brand's new global creative officer Dirk Schönberger. The collection featured in the campaign is designed by the MCM studio but edited by Schönberger. In the images, the 17-year-old "Bad Guy" singer wears a mix of the label's accessories, such as bucket hats and bum bags with slouchy tracksuits and oversize parkas. {Fashionista inbox}

Billie Eilish for the MCM Fall 2019 campaign. Photo: Lea Colombo/Courtesy of MCM

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Forever 21 is in financial trouble
Forever 21 is suffering financially as young consumers migrate to other retailers, especially online sellers. Now, the fast fashion chain is developing restructuring plans in hopes of avoiding a possible sale or bankruptcy. The retailer — owned by husband-and-wife team Do Won Chang and Jin Sook Chang — has hired advisors to explore the company's options, including renegotiating leases and store exits with landlords, securing a new loan or overhauling the chain's operations. {Los Angeles Times

Amazon wants to conquer fashion with Prime Day 
Amazon's Prime Day has historically been a shopping event where you can score Instant Pots at heavily discounted prices, but this year, the e-commerce giant used the day to tout fashion deals, as well. It also had a slew of recent initiatives and tie-ups with fashion influencers — like Arielle Charnas — to show it's trying to establish the site as a place to shop for more than just socks and basic T-shirts. In doing so, the company hopes to take market share as other apparel retailers are struggling.  {CNBC

Mall brands push inclusive sizing to attract Gen Z 
Mall staples like American Eagle and Express are hoping to appeal to Gen-Z consumers during the upcoming back-to-school shopping season by leaning into extended sizing and limited-edition collections. American Eagle debuted a range of curvy jeans in February, which it put front and center in its fall campaign featuring Lil Wayne, who will also be releasing a capsule collection with the label on Aug. 10. As for Express, executives say the brand is working hard to push its size range past an 18. {Glossy

Zara executives on setting new sustainability targets
On Tuesday, Zara-owner Inditex announced a number of new measures intended to highlight its commitment to sustainability. The company said it's installing a committee on the board to monitor its efforts and is linking executives' long-term bonuses to achieving sustainability goals. Following this announcement, Business of Fashion caught up with the chairman and former chief executive of Inditex, Pablo Isla, to hear more about setting new environmental targets. {Business of Fashion

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