Navajo communities close access to Grand Falls after a surge in water and visitors

LEUPP — Navajo residents near Grand Falls have long dealt with the thousands of tourists visiting the famous "chocolate waterfalls," located on the Navajo Nation near Flagstaff, but they say they will no longer tolerate the disruptions from so many visitors and have closed access to the site.

Word spread late last week that the communities had closed Grand Falls, known as Adah'iilíní, until further notice after runoff from recent storms swelled the Little Colorado River as it flows over the falls, bringing a new influx of visitors.

Residents said the crowds led to overflowing trash and discarded beer bottles; ATVs off-roading into residential and non-designated roads; deteriorating roads; and disturbing the natural ecosystem, its inhabitants and cultural sites.

"That's our home," said one Navajo rancher, whose family has a homestead not far from the falls, and who asked not to be identified because of safety concerns. "It's like someone has come into our backyard and do whatever they want to do."

Navajo singer Radmilla Cody, who grew up in the Grand Falls area, showed her support and solidarity with community members who wanted Grand Falls closed to tourists.

"I support and stand with my relatives and their decision to close Adah'iilíní/Grand Falls to the public," said Cody in a statement to The Arizona Republic. "Hearing their stories and concern for the land, water and our nonhuman relatives is disheartening. Adah'iilíní is a sacred and holy site."

Grand Falls visitors disturb residents, leave trash

This issue isn't new, say residents, who have been dealing with the effects tourists in the area for decades. Visitors frequently do not pack out trash, as a result, the two trash cans provided by the county overflow. The community — which still doesn't have running water and electricity — also lacks the luxury of trash pickup services and residents are forced to pick up the trash on their own.

"Visitors not only trash the area, they fly drones over residences and freely ride their ATVs off of designated roads into homesteads," said Cody. "Residents have seen visitors also chase livestock around on their ATVs, go skinny dipping in the water, and hear gunshots and are concerned for their safety. Visitors have lost the privilege of having access to Adah'iilíní because of their own actions and choices to not be a good relative to the sacred site and its occupants."

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Locals have become burdened with the task of dealing with tourists, who have no qualms about showing up at residents' homes at any point of the day. Some are seeking help with damaged tires after driving too fast on the washboard roads or after getting stuck after mud bogging — an off-road activity where people take ATVs into the mud. Tourists also drive too fast on the roads or try to carve new roads, leaving residents uneasy and fearful for their animals.

Grand Falls has been closed to tourists in the past. When the COVID-19 pandemic hit the Navajo Nation three years ago, tribal leaders closed tourist spots and local roads. But residents say the pandemic actually brought more tourists because so much was shut down. No one seemed to care that the Navajo Nation was closed.

The recent closure has not been any different, with tourists still making their way to the Grand Falls and ignoring "closed" signs.

"For generations, our people have given offerings and prayers to this sacred place. It's time for Adah'iilíní to rest and the residents to recover from the trauma and invasive behaviors," said Cody.

Navajo president supports tourism

The Navajo Nation Tourism Department confirmed that Grand Falls is closed until further notice.

The Navajo Nation Council and Speaker Crystalyne Curley did not respond to requests for comment.

Navajo Nation President Buu Nygren hasn't spoken with the community on the closure, but he has made it clear that he supports tourism.

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During a February Navajo tourism conference held at Twin Arrows, Nygren said it's time for the Navajo Nation to fully engage in the country’s $1.1 trillion tourism industry. He said three years ago when the ongoing pandemic hit, more than 4.5 million tourists traveled through Grand Canyon, Lake Powell, Bryce and Zion National Parks, Horseshoe Bend, Antelope Canyon and Monument Valley.

Nygren said being creative is a must, but part of that is keeping the sacred areas sacred, untouched and un-photographed where necessary and still keeping the Navajo Nation friendly and hospitable to visitors. He listed what he sees as the positive sides of a booming tourism landscape: infrastructure improvements to roads, housing for employees, more stores, internet connections and other amenities that will encourage Navajos to return to operate these businesses.

He said because of COVID-19, many Navajo areas and sites have been closed too long. Tourism is an industry that advertises itself through social media. Instagram is already bursting with eye-popping scenic places in Arizona, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico. Navajo government will profit from tourism, through employment, tax revenue, preservation of language, culture and way of life, and provide a way for Navajos to return home to good-paying jobs or businesses of their own, he said.

"The President remains very much open to promoting tourism. Navajo is open for tourism," Byron Shorty, Navajo President's office communication director told The Arizona Republic. "The community chose to close the area. But all throughout Western (agency) we have opportunities for people to visit."

Grand Falls is wildly popular on social media and images of the attraction show up on Instagram and Tik Tok, raising the site's profile as a destination in Arizona to stop for photos or make videos for free. But even before social media brought more tourists to the area, elders have been dealing with this for decades.

"We ask that the public respect the decision of the local residents in the closure of Adah'iilíní/Grand Falls or you will be asked to leave the area. Public notices have been circulated through the media and social media," Cody said. "Signs are posted informing all visitors and nonresidents of the closure. Be a good relative and let the land and community recover at this time."

Arlyssa Becenti covers Indigenous affairs for The Arizona Republic and azcentral. Send ideas and tips to arlyssa.becenti@arizonarepublic.com.

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This article originally appeared on Arizona Republic: Why is Grand Falls closed? Navajo communities close waterfall access