NC could win big in James Beard Awards, but Wilmington restaurants left out this year

After a two-year hiatus, the James Beard Foundation Awards are back. Chefs and restaurants from around the country are set to get career-boosting accolades today.

UPDATE: Asheville restaurants Chai Pani, Cúrate win 2022 James Beard Awards

The initial round of semifinalists, announced in February, included more than a dozen chefs and restaurants from around North Carolina. Even the final round of nominees gives nods to Asheville eateries like Chai Pani (for outstanding restaurant) and Benne on Eagle (for emerging chef Cleophus Hethington) and Alley Twenty Six in Durham for Outstanding Bar Program.

Unfortunately, none are from Wilmington. In fact, only two local chefs, Keith Rhodes and Dean Neff, have been on the James Beard list in the past for their work at Catch and PinPoint, respectively.

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“Well, you know, it's not our year," Rhodes said. "But it is really great to see the talent, and appreciation, for people who are working hard in N.C."

According to the James Beard Foundation, an award winner in their prestigious competition is someone who can tell a story on a plate, is innovative and consistent, and works toward a food culture that can thrive. Although there are also awards for media and leadership, the winners in the restaurant and chef categories are especially prized.

"It's 100 percent a dream of mine to win," said Joe Wolfson. "It's like the Academy Awards."

He only joined the local food scene in February when he became the executive chef at Dram Yard in downtown Wilmington. So he wouldn't be eligible this year, but does feel like his food could go up against anyone's and has high hopes for the future.

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"A win for anyone in Wilmington would be a great thing for the food scene here," he said.

Like what two-time winner Ashley Christensen has done for Raleigh's restaurant culture.

Rhodes said Wilmington being off the list this year (and in previous years) could be a matter of the local foodie voice not being loud enough, at the moment.

"For a long time, the James Beard Awards considered California as a whole, so it was dominated by Los Angeles," he said. "In North Carolina, cities like Raleigh and Charlotte are bigger and their voice might be louder."

During a break in 2020 and 2021, the foundation conducted an audit of it’s awards process and has made a few changes to the process. The goal is to make them more diverse and inclusive, including ensuring that many communities across the country know about the awards, and the nomination process.

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"I feel like there are a lot of people who are deserving from North Carolina on this year's list," Neff said.

And Rhodes is encouraged to see a wide variety of chefs and restaurants representing the state.

"I was the first African American male to be nominated in North Carolina," he said. "It's great to see Greg and Ricky and everyone out there representing what we can do with food here."

Greg Collier of Leah & Louise in Charlotte and Ricky Moore of SALTBOX Seafood Joint in Durham are among the 2022 nominees for Best Chef Southeast. In fact, of the five names, four are in North Carolina, including Katie Button of Cúrate in Asheville and Cheetie Kumar of Garland in Raleigh. (Philip Krajeck, of Rolf and Daughters in Nashville, is the only out-of-state nominee.)

Pre-pandemic, manna's Billy Mellon helped form a group called 40 Eats with the goal of putting Wilmington restaurants on the larger, regional culinary map.

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Rhodes, too, thinks that with local chefs like Carson Jewell and James Doss and others doing what they do every day, that Wilmington will have a chance to shine again in the James Beard spotlight. In fact, he's working on a new restaurant near Neff's current Seabird restaurant.

"I think it will be a great thing to have two local James Beard chefs working in downtown Wilmington," he said.

Another boost could come from new restaurants coming our way from Giorgios Bakatsias, who was nominated for Outstanding Restaurateur in 2014, and Sunny Gerhart, a Best Chef Southeast semifinalist this year for his Raleigh restaurant.

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"When I got my nod, I was working a lot with the movie industry, who really helped in getting the word out," Rhodes said.

"Our time will come again. We need people to plug and let people know about what we offer... as a chef, you just have to keep putting your best food forward all the time every day."

He and other chefs say you don't always feel like you're getting recognized, but eventually good work will be appreciated.

Update: On June 13, the 2022 James Beard Award winners included Curate and Chai Pani in Asheville and Moore took home the title of Best Chef Southeast.

Allison Ballard is the food and dining reporter at the StarNews. You can reach her at aballard@gannett.com.

This article originally appeared on Wilmington StarNews: Wilmington restaurants are off the ballot for the 2022 James Beard Awards