'Never underestimate Lubbock': Planning a road trip to this historic Texas city

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We hit pay dirt in Lubbock.

Or rather, we hit pay dirt on the subject of a future road trip to Lubbock.

On June 3, I asked for tips about the historical, cultural and gustatory treasures of that High Plains city.

Naturally, I received a few snarky remarks via social media. That is in the nature of social media.

On the other hand, I received more than 100 ecstatic endorsements, especially for places to eat.

In fact, for a few minutes after my initial Twitter post, "Lubbock" was trending in Texas.

Admittedly, some of those tweets pasted the word "Lubbock" over glam shots of snow-covered mountains or tropical beaches.

A runner passes the American Windmill Museum in Lubbock. It's one of the must-see stops on any roadtrip to the High Plains city.
A runner passes the American Windmill Museum in Lubbock. It's one of the must-see stops on any roadtrip to the High Plains city.

I ignored those. I've been to Lubbock. Its pleasures are more subtle and not always readily appreciated.

If the place is in Texas, however, I'll find things to like. Especially with dozens of expert tips in hand.

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"Never underestimate Lubbock," says Janet Maykus.

Message received.

Now it's your turn to send in more sage advice. Deliver your Lubbock tips — and, most importantly, the reasons for your advocacy — to mbarnes@gannett.com.

Buddy Holly, the most famous of Lubbock's singers, now is remembered by a statue across the street from the Buddy Holly Center.
Buddy Holly, the most famous of Lubbock's singers, now is remembered by a statue across the street from the Buddy Holly Center.

Buddy Holly and all that

If you know nothing else about Lubbock history, you know that it was the hometown of the infectious rocker Buddy Holly, who died Feb. 3, 1959 in an airplane crash.

Unsurprisingly, the one stop almost every Lubbock lover mentioned was the museum at the Buddy Holly Center, which contains a good deal of memorabilia about Holly and other local culture.

Nearby are the West Texas Walk of Fame and a much-photographed statue of Holly.

Fans also recommended the Buddy Holly Hall of Performing Arts and Sciences, which I hear comes with amazing acoustics and not a bad seat in the house.

Besides these prominent sites, one may visit Holly's gravesite at Lubbock Cemetery, where one can also pay respects to Mac Davis' memorial.

"Don’t forget Lubbock High School, Buddy Holly’s and my alma mater," musician Bob Livingston interjects. He also mentions the West Texas Walk of Fame, "of which I am an inductee."

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It is a well-established fact that other musicians — Jo Carol Pierce, Joe Ely, Natalie Maines, Jimmie Dale Gilmore, Lloyd Maines, Butch Hancock, Mac Davis and Terry Allen among others — started out in Lubbock.

Memories linger.

"I attended Texas Tech as a freshman 1965 as a football 'walk on' and aspiring journalist from Lake Highlands High," filmmaker Jed Riffe remembers. "I got into the Koko and other private-club venues as a roadie for the Twilights. Joe Ely was lead singer."

Digging up unique sites

More than one correspondent suggested that we visit Lake Lubbock Landmark, a dig that celebrates its 50th anniversary this year.

"Paleo location of ancient buffalo kill site by paleo natives," reports H. Holder about the Lake Lubbock site. "It has life-size statues of animals that lived here post ice-age."

Birder and author Jennifer Bristol endorsed Ransom Canyon, an astonishing little lake at the base of the Caprock that I stumbled on while tracing the forks of the Brazos River. This former ranchland is also the site for Robert Bruno's whimsically weird Steel House.

Maybe the No. 1 old-school attraction in Lubbock is the Prairie Dog Town, home to thousands of burrowing rodents.

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"Prairie Dog Town is a sentimental favorite," says actor Janelle Buchanan. "It was the first place Jo Carol Pierce took me when we made an epic visit to her hometown some 30 years ago."

I'm also attracted to the newer American Windmill Museum, formerly known as the American Wind Power Center.

Suggesting a side trip, Louie Bond sent a short note about touring the big geological wonders of the Panhandle area.

"Rent a convertible," he says. "Pick the correct soundtrack. Head out to Caprock and Palo Duro Canyon."

Cultural venues of the Llano Estacado

Our Think, Texas SUV always stops for museums and other cultural venues.

More than one Lubbock devotee recommended a walking tour of the Texas Tech University campus. Previously, I've glanced at the school's modernist fringes, but there's a cluster of Spanish Colonial Revival architecture at the heart of the campus.

Others suggested a tour of the public art on campus, especially the pieces by Jesús Morales.

An exhibit at the Museum of Texas Tech University currently celebrates the 100th anniversary of the school. Some of its other attractions this summer: "Wildlife Photographer of the Year" and "The Diamond M Collection: Unfolding."

Multiple Lubbock buffs lobbied for a visit to the National Ranching and Heritage Center.

"See how the early settlers used to build a huge ag industry that we all benefit from today and into the future." Stoney Jackson says. "Makes you appreciate Lubbock and the South Plains even more."

Another agricultural museum, FiberMax Center for Discovery, "takes you from horse drawn implements to the tech-savvy, computer GPS, driven equipment and farmers of today."

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Lynn Haley recommended the Silent Wings Museum, which in housed in the 1950s-era former air traffic control tower and terminal building of Lubbock's airport. It focuses on the glider pilots of World War II.

Journalist and author Joe Nick Patoski, knowing my weakness for historical archives, suggested a visit to the the Southwestern Collection at Texas Tech, "if you want to get lost for a week."

Another Tech collection that receives votes from the research crowd is the Vietnam Center and Archive.

"Check out the new theater building at Tech," says lawyer Tim Crowley, a high school buddy of mine who is credited with leading the revival of Marfa. He was a drama major at Texas Tech almost 50 years ago. "You will be impressed. If you want a tour, call me."

Sometimes, it is wise to mix culture with hospitality. As such, the Cotton Court made the must-do lists of several contacts on social media.

Lubbock's Cotton Court Hotel in the 1600 block of Broadway has attracted plenty of out-of-town fans.
Lubbock's Cotton Court Hotel in the 1600 block of Broadway has attracted plenty of out-of-town fans.

"We stayed at the Cotton Court Hotel last time we drove back from Colorado," says Meg McGrew Meo. "Great place with live music. First time we had heard live music since before COVID. Wasn’t expecting such a cool place in Lubbock."

For a completely different type of culture, John Slate told me that I should look up Tim Kohtz of Inkfluence Tattoo, the city's oldest ink parlor, established in 1995.

Slate: "I bet he knows stuff off the beaten path."

Where to grab a bite

Sorry, there's no longer a Stubb's Bar-B-Q in Lubbock, but there's a statue and memorial dedicated to C.B. Stubblefield, known as "Stubb," in a pocket park at the original site of the small eatery.

Stubb moved to Austin in 1986, where you can still munch on barbecue — and hear live music — at Stubb's on Red River Street.

Meanwhile, there seems to be no shortage of well-sauced spots in the Hub City:

  • Mateo Barnstone is a fan of Evie Mae's BBQ.

  • Kyle Hook says: "Go to the Spoon — get a cold schooner and some BBQ." (It is also known as Texas Café & Bar.)

  • Kevin Hopson recommends Tom and Bingo’s Hickory Pit Bar-B-Que on 34th Street for brisket sandwich.

  • Stuart Williams' choice for ideal smoked meats is Wiley’s Championship BBQ.

  • John Myers: "Go get a steak at Cagle Steaks & BBQ." (Glad to have choices.)

I'll be forced to space my visits to these tempting joints over multiple road trips, since barbecue is not the only food game in town.

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For more eats, Walter Riggs suggests that we wander around the Depot District on the south end of downtown. "Triple J Chophouse and Brew Co. is my favorite," Riggs says, "but there’s a plethora of places that’ll tickle your fancy."

"Cooks Garage is a cool venue on the south edge of town," Riggs adds. "They frequently have live music. The decor and feel celebrates vintage automobiles many of which are on display."

Now, what's a Texas road trip without Mexican food? Lynne Skinner and Russell Guthrie prefer Abuelo's, advertised as "Americas #1 Mexican Restaurant." There's a lot of competition for that title.

For instance, Wells Mason points us toward Cocina de La Sirena. Others like the Lubbock outlets of Chimy's or Fuzzy's Taco Shop, both popular in other Texas college towns.

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As for fine dining, Trish Foreman Wesevich says "The Nicolett is very delicious and lovely." Texas Monthly features editor Kathy Blackwell agrees: "Definitely eat here!"

Sarah Beck endorses the calzone at One Guy From Italy (two locations) and everything from Taco Villa. "Look for August’s fried pies at the gas stations," Becks adds. Luis Delgadillo: "You have to go eat breakfast at Chicken Run."

I don't know what to make of this, but more than one contributor raved about the cheese sticks at Spanky's.

Would you like wine with that?

For a long time, Lubbock was drier than the Chihuahua Desert. Meaning, one could not purchase an adult beverage without getting in a car and going somewhere else, or by joining a private club.

Now, thanks to research done by Texas Tech University agriculturalists, the surrounding High Plains are among the most productive grape wine regions in the state. And while many of the grapes — and the resulting wine —are sold five hours away in the more picturesque Hill Country, a good number tastings wink at the visitor to Lubbock.

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"I graduated from Tech with an undergraduate degree in horticulture," says Austin civic leader Melanie Barnes, "and my professors used to always tell us they were planting grape vines in their spare time so they could retire on the profits and drink wine. Those vines became Llano Estacado wines, arguably the best Texas has produced."

Tweeter "Debbie" sent me a guide to 13 Lubbock-area wineries with visiting information. Some familiar names — McPherson, Llano Estacado, Pheasant Ridge — popped out.

More beverage tips:

  • Joyce Bird highly recommends La Diosa Cellars.

  • Paul Tubbs sent me a winery checklist that includes English Newsom Cellars and Burklee Hill Vineyard.

  • He also advocates for breweries such as Two Docs Brewing Co., Good Line Beer Co., Frost Brewhouse, Mano Negra Brewing Co., and The Brewery LBK, which was voted USA Today's Best Brewery in the US in 2021.

Soak up the local color at First Friday

One last endorsement, this one from my USA Today Network colleague Brandi Addison at the Lubbock Avalanche-Journal.

"I would highly, highly recommend you plan your trip so you can visit the First Friday Art Trail," Addison says. "So many great artists, performances and food trucks and restaurants to experience, and you can hit them all in one place!"

Michael Barnes writes about the people, places, culture and history of Austin and Texas. He can be reached at mbarnes@statesman.com. Sign up for the free digital newsletter, Think, Texas at statesman.com/newsletters, or at the newsletter page of your local USA Today Network paper.

This article originally appeared on Austin American-Statesman: Planning a Lubbock visit list: Buddy Holly, Texas Tech, history, food