Next time you go to Friday Harbor, stop to check out historic Port Townsend on the way
It’s easy to look for the fastest, simplest route to your destination when road tripping. But in the scenic and historic hodgepodge that is Washington state, taking the road less traveled can lead you to places you never expected. Case in point is the historic Victorian seaside town of Port Townsend.
Next time you hit the road, especially if venturing on to the San Juan Islands in the Salish Sea or farther on the coast toward the Pacific Ocean, take a shot and stop at a new small town on the way. You never know what you’ll find.
Port Townsend basics
The only incorporated city in Jefferson County, Port Townsend is a unique destination with Victorian aesthetics and steeped in Native American culture and history. It’s a place where you can spend time on the water, near the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Port Townsend Bay. Fair warning, it is usually fairly cold — the average high temperature at the peak of summer is only 71 degrees, and night time temperatures can dip into the 40s even during the summer.
It is on the northern edge of the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway, a 363-mile roadway along the Pacific coast that takes drivers through some of Oregon and Portland’s most scenic places.
Washington’s coast was once inhabited by vast stretches of Indigenous communities. When European settlers began to inhabit the area, the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe created The čičməhán Trail (Cheech-ma-han) to educate the settlers of the land and the people already there. The self-guided trail is still in place now, and different routes can be taken depending on the desired length.
Port Townsend things to do
Port Townsend, initially founded as Port Townshend in 1792 by British Captain George Vancouver, is one of just three Victorian-era seaports left in the United States. The port is on the northeast corner of the Olympic Peninsula and today is home to 10,388 residents.
Port Townsend hosts a Wooden Boat Festival in early September every year, with hundreds of wooden boats sandwiched into the marina.
You can also tour the Wilderbee Farm, a family farm with u-pick lavender, blueberries, pumpkins and cut flowers.
Tours of the Point Wilson lighthouse are offered on Saturdays from 1 to 4 p.m. between May and September. The Port Townsend Farmers Market is also held Saturdays, year round. Hours change in the winter, but it is currently open between 9 a.m. and 2 p.m.
There are several large parks in Port Townsend, including Fort Worden State Park. There are over 100 historic structures in the state park, full of bunkers as it was designed as a wartime military base to protect the Puget Sound. Construction began in 1898, and the first guns were manned in 1902, according to town history.
Or if you prefer a day at a Washington coast beach, hit Chetzemoka Park, a local favorite for water activities and casual recreation. Stroll through the trails or wander the park, you might even see some deer.
Food in Port Townsend
Need a bite or a drink before a ferry ride? Here are some food options in Port Townsend, from waterfront cafes to homemade ice creams and pies:
From Port Townsend to Friday Harbor
The Puget Sound Express makes trips connecting the Olympic Peninsula to the San Juan Islands using Port Townsend and Friday Harbor, but be prepared for a long wait. Puget Sound ferries have struggled with delays in recent times, in part to high popularity and mechanical issues. Leave your car in Port Townsend and take the ferry, Friday Harbor is a walking town with other transportation and tourism options for rent.
The ferry service runs from April 28 through September 24. It leaves Port Townsend at 9 a.m. and leaves Friday Harbor in the afternoon, with times varying. One-way fares cost $35 for children between 2 and 10, infants are free and adults for $55.50. You’re guaranteed to see at least one whale, or your next trip is free. Reservations must be made in advance.
“Getting here is half the fun,” said Deborah Hoskinson, Executive Director of the San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau.
While ferries are the most common way in, you can also take a seaplane and other unorthodox methods of transportation.
Friday Harbor things to do
You’ll get off the ferry in Friday Harbor, within walking distance of everything in the town. It’s easy to get around, but there are also shuttle buses and trolleys for tourists and bikes and mopeds for rent. Visitors can also book ferry tickets from Port Townsend to visit the San Juan Islands, an archipelago of beautiful nature-filled islands situated just north of the port.
You can head down to the water and soak in the views. Kayaks and paddleboards are also available for rent, or you can go fishing, boating, even whale watching. All are popular options in Friday Harbor.
If you plan ahead, you can spend a lovely day (or several) at Friday Harbor.
Outside of water activities, you can also visit numerous attractions in Friday Harbor. It’s home to several museums, including the Whale Museum and the San Juan Historical Society and Museum, and an aquarium. Or if art is more your thing, stop by the San Juan Islands Museum of Art and the Arctic Raven Gallery, a fine art gallery focused on Northwest Native American culture.
Island living things to know
The San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau describes Friday Harbor as “a charming, historic, walkable seaport just steps from the ferry landing, with small, friendly shops and restaurants, and a refreshing absence of fast-food chains.”
While it’s busiest in the summer, Hoskinson says fall visits are recommended as well, with numerous events and gorgeous weather during autumn. Savor the San Juans is a food event held during the fall, showcasing local food and drink with farm-to-table eating options, beer festivals and farm tours.
“It’s beautiful here year-round for different reasons,” Hoskinson said.
But with that friendly, small town energy comes island culture, the basic manners one should follow when visiting the island. It is extremely important to respect island culture while visiting.
A big part of this is conserving water. Being surrounded by water does not equate to a large water supply. Clean water is in short supply, so be mindful of your water intake and try to shorten your showers while on the island.
The San Juan Islands uphold the Leave No Trace policy and ask that visitors do the same.
Friday Harbor food & drink
Check out some of the many small businesses operating in Friday Harbor. Eating on the island offers a break from traditional road trip junk food, with options for every palate.
▪ Food
▪ Drink
Driving directions to Port Townsend
From Olympia to Port Townsend
Drive on U.S. Route 101 northbound from Olympia and drive approximately 85 miles to Discovery Bay
Turn onto State Route 20 and continue northward toward Port Townsend.
From Tri-Cities to Port Townsend
Join Interstate 82 westbound to Ellensburg, and continue westward on Interstate 90.
Take Interstate 90 to Snoqualmie Way and turn left onto State Route 18.
Follow State Route 18 until it joins I-5 in Federal Way.
Continue on I-5 until Tacoma, then exit onto U.S Route 16. Exit at Gorst onto U.S. Route 3.
Continue on U.S. Route 3 until you reach the Olympic Peninsula Gateway Visitors Center. Turn onto U.S. Route 19 and continue north toward Port Townsend, joining onto U.S. Route 20 shortly before arriving.
From Tacoma to Port Townsend
Join U.S. Route 16 in University Place and continue northbound.
Exit at Gorst onto U.S. Route 3.
Continue on U.S. Route 3 until you reach the Olympic Peninsula Gateway Visitors Center. Turn onto U.S. Route 19 and continue north toward Port Townsend, joining onto U.S. Route 20 shortly before arriving.
From Bellingham to Port Townsend
Get on I-5 from W. Magnolia Street and Lakeway Drive.
Follow I-5 until you can join State Route 20 in Burlington.
Continue westward and across Fidalgo Island into Deception Pass State Park.
Continue traveling southward toward Fort Casey and then take the ferry from there to Port Townsend.
