'It’s not Memphis in May unless it's here': BBQ teams celebrate return to the river

The Battle of the Big Hogs is on.

The Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest officially kicked off Wednesday, and the teams were glad to be back in their longtime home: Tom Lee Park.

The redesigned park may be different and the contest's layout modified, but the general consensus was teams were grateful to be back at the riverfront park.

The competition had moved to the Fairgrounds at Liberty Park last year due to ongoing renovations at Tom Lee Park, but with work about 80% complete on the park, both the barbecue contest and Beale Street Music Festival were able to return to the riverfront this year.

Being on the Mississippi River is a draw for many out-of-town barbecue teams.

“The river adds so much to this competition,” said Chris Lilly, the award-winning pitmaster for Big Bob Gibson out of Decatur, Alabama. “There is just something about watching the barges float by. You can’t get this atmosphere at any other competition anywhere.”

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Brooke Lewis of two-time Grand Champion team The Shed BBQ out of Ocean Springs, Mississippi, said she was so happy to be back in Tom Lee Park. “The breeze, the view … the river just makes this competition.”

“It’s not Memphis in May unless it's here," said Delaniah Bringle, lead pitmaster for the Nashville-based all-female whole hog team “I Only Smoke When I Drink."

Longtime Memphis-based teams were happy to be back in Tom Lee Park too.

“We are blessed because we are back where we are supposed to be — back at the river,” said Ernie Mellor, pitmaster for HogWild competition team and owner of HogWild Real Memphis Barbecue Catering Company.

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1986 was the first year Memphis pitmaster Ernie Mellor competed in Memphis in May. After 37 years, he has seen the competition grow and change.  While his booth is technically on the river bank like in years past, it is in a new location.

“One negative is the landscaping blocks some of the river view,” he said. “As the trees grow, I am concerned you won’t be able to see the river from the park.”

This is the 30th year Barbeque Republic has competed at Memphis in May. Founding team member Gordon Stark said he likes the new park layout. “I think our booth location and the ambiance is much better this year.”

His fellow team member Jamie Spicer appreciated the new landscaping. “We used to have to decorate with plants and now we don’t have too,” he said as he pointed to the garden in front of the team's booth.

It’s the 20th year for Hall Pass BBQ to compete. “Memphis in May and the river are one in the same,” founding team member Tom Cassidy III said.

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But many teams did express concern about the logistics of move-in due to the new park layout and landscaping.

“It’s tough,” said Brian Wynn of M/W Smokers. “The park is not really set up for Memphis in May. But we sure are glad to be back down here even though logistically it was easier last year at the fairgrounds.”

Wynn offered a sound piece of advice for all attendees. “Follow the map as best you can.  Nothing is really in the same place as before.”

Jennifer Chandler is the Food & Dining reporter at The Commercial Appeal. She can be reached at jennifer.chandler@commercialappeal.com and you can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @cookwjennifer. 

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Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest

When: May 17-20

Hours: 5-10 p.m. May 17, 11 a.m.-midnight May 18-19, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. May 20

Where: Tom Lee Park

Online: memphisinmay.org

Tickets: Single-day general admission tickets are $15 and four-day passes are $54. Tickets can be purchased in advance at memphisinmay.org.

This article originally appeared on Memphis Commercial Appeal: Memphis in May barbecue contest back at Tom Lee Park: What teams say