Nothing says Colorado summer like this mountain town

Jun. 18—They call it "the last great ski town." They, being the outsiders. It's a popular tag for Crested Butte, where the resort frills are far enough away for the town down the road to maintain its charm and grit.

The insiders, meanwhile, might tell you they came for winter but stayed for summer.

Some other tags for this mountain hamlet? "Colorado's Wildflower Capital," for one. For another: the birthplace of mountain biking.

Oh yes, in the 1970s, the people around here were crazy enough to roll down steep, rocky terrain when the bikes weren't ready for it. This was Crested Butte's emerging demographic — a wild, hippie bunch replacing the practical, tough miners of yore.

Well, the miners were pretty wild too. Some say you can hear their ghosts around the Victorian buildings.

The buildings, by the way, sit on rather rudimentary foundations. A historical guide pointed this out to us once: wood simply planted over rock, different from what you might see in towns where gold and silver boomed.

"We had coal," the guide reminded. "We were kind of more poor and deserving."

Nowadays in this scenic getaway, we all feel like rich fools.

Avenue of discoveryThe main street, Elk Avenue, shares distinctions of creative district and historic district. That should give you an idea of the overall experience.

You'll find plenty of art galleries, such as Paragon, Redline, Rijks Family and Shaun Horne. But there is no greater proclamation of the town's commitment to creativity than the elaborate Center for the Arts, which hosts various performances and events.

On the historic side, the museum is housed in an old hardware store. You'll get a feel for the Crested Butte that was — plus a picture with the elk rack declared the biggest ever scored in Colorado. The model town and railroad are other attractions.

And then you'll exit for something modern. The shop called Lavish lives up to its name with jewelry, hats and accessories. Favor the Kind and Milky Way are beloved boutiques. There are other finds to be made at Scout's General Store and Chopwood Mercantile.

Eats and drinksStart the day with coffee and a doughnut from the cabin that is Camp 4 Coffee. For something more filling, McGill's slings sit-down breakfast, everything from pancakes to benedicts and burritos.

Secret Stash is one of Crested Butte's standout eateries, with pizzas true to the eclectic culture. Look no further than the Notorious FIG. BONEZ also matches the funky atmosphere with a twisted take on margaritas and tacos.

For elevated, farm-to-table fare, make a reservation at The Sunflower. Soupcon also takes reservations. If you're unfamiliar with the word, it refers to a small quantity. The restaurant in a cozy cabin promises big flavors.

One more cabin to hit: the one known as "the cocktail cabin," or The Dogwood. But of all places to wet your whistle, you can't leave without a round at Kochevar's. The saloon appears unchanged from its 1880s beginnings.

Adventure timeThe famous wildflower festival is slated for July 7-16. If you don't plan on being part of the tours and workshops, that at least gives you a rough time frame to catch the magnificent blooms.

If you plan to explore the mountain biking terrain, seek beta from one of the many shops. Big Al's is downtown, as is Wheelies and Waves, which also can hook you up for fun on the local waters.

Off-roading also factors into the outfitter industry, with Pearl Pass among the rowdy roads ascending from town. Much gentler is Kebler Pass, a go-to thoroughfare for adventure. Several trailheads spot the road through a towering aspen forest.