NYC dining gems: Arth Aljanatain in The Bronx’s Little Yemen
After the Yemeni civil war in 2014, much of the diaspora made its way to the Bronx near the Pelham Parkway and Van Nest neighborhoods in an enclave that eventually became deemed as Little Yemen. The area now boasts more than 500 Yemeni-owned businesses, and one of the best among them is family-run Arth Aljanatain.
As I walked in the door of the no-frills restaurant, I heard no music, just the sounds of hungry diners chatting and the clinking of a busy kitchen. The lack of a playlist was made up for in character, smells and an infectious warm energy. There is one small counter at which diners can place an order, and while there is no visible menu on the wall, a paper one will be provided on request.
Owner Hashen came out to greet me, and I shyly admitted my knowledge on Yemeni cuisine is sparse. With this information, he refused to let me order on my own, and told me if I was going to be properly introduced to his country’s food, I had to trust him. While I was taught to never trust strangers, in this case, it was simply doctor’s orders, no questions asked.
Within minutes, a cup of yellow-greenish soup and a salad were placed on a plastic tray before me. The soup turned out to be a brothy turmeric lentil soup. My server let me know that every dish comes with soup and salad. Shortly after they arrived, a bowl of hummus with some freshly baked Yemeni flatbread called malawah followed. The bread is baked inhouse everyday and is much larger and thinner than a pita, with signature charred flecks throughout. I shamelessly tore pieces off to use as a scooping vessel into the incredibly clean-tasting hummus. I was quickly learning that the food here is simple, one might even say pure, like you were eating in someone’s kitchen at their home, not at a restaurant in New York City.
After the hummus and soup came several main courses: lamb, chicken, and salmon, all in hearty portions served with rice. I immediately went for the lamb. I pulled the plate toward me and as I went to pick up the bone, preparing to have to cut a piece off, the meat in its entirety fell off. Now that is the epitome of fall-off-the-bone, no-fork-needed food. It was impressive to witness, and, so, I skipped the utensils, grabbed yet another piece of the flatbread, scooped up some of that tender lamb, and popped it into my mouth. I had a few bites of fragrant, warm rice, and while I could have finished that lamb dish 100 times over, I wanted to save some room to try the chicken and salmon.
I noticed the salmon was heavily covered in a red seasoning, which Hashen explained was a mix of paprika, chili, coriander and other spices. I dug in, and while the portion was huge and it certainly is worth trying at only $19.99, it was hard to compare anything to that lamb. I tried the chicken, and added dollops of zhug. Any hot sauce aficionado should be familiar with zhug. The flavor-packed, eye-watering green Yemeni hot sauce is typically made with chili peppers (in Arth’s case, jalapeños), garlic and other spices, with a chimichurri-like consistency. Add small drops (or dollops, if you’re like me) to any of the dishes at Arth Aljanatain, and you’re in for a real treat.
Arth Aljanatain also serves breakfast items, such as liver and hearts, foul, kidney beans with eggs and cheese, and sandwiches like falafel, egg, beans and chicken. There is also a selection of desserts, such as basbousa, a syrup-soaked semolina cake, and mahalabiya, a creamy Middle Eastern milk pudding.
One of the most efficient ways to understand a community is through the food they eat, so bring your support to a group of hospitable, warm folks who certainly deserve it, and head to Arth Aljanatain in the Bronx’s Little Yemen.
Address: 700 Rhinelander Ave, Bronx, N.Y. 10462
Hours: Monday-Sunday 9 a.m.-1a.m.
Prices: Appetizers $1.49 to $7.99, breakfast $8.99 to $16.99, lunch $15.99 to $27.99, main courses $14.99 to $27.99
Delivery and takeout available; no reservations
Kaitlyn Rosati is a New York City-based food and travel journalist. She is constantly on the hunt to find the city’s best hidden gems, allowing New Yorkers to travel far without ever leaving the boroughs. Have a suggestion for a great hidden dining gem in your neighborhood? Reach out to Kaitlyn with your recommendations at nomannomad.net@gmail.com.
