NYC hidden dining gems: biker bar Dirty Pierre’s serves big drinks, unexpected French bistro flair
Neighbors may be divided over Forest Hills Stadium, but one thing denizens of the Queens community can agree on is that Dirty Pierre’s, just a minute walk from the venue, is one of New York’s best kept secrets.
The biker bar with French culinary roots carries the slogan “tiny bar, big drinks,” and that first part is definitely not up for debate. Due to its small size, it’s easy to miss Dirty Pierre’s in historic Station Square. Look for the shiny banner with flying pigs and martini glasses and you’re at the right place. Inside, Christmas lights hang and funky decor lines the bright yellow walls. Getting a seat at the bar is a battle thanks to the loyal regulars.
So, why is there a dive bar serving French food in one of Queens’ most expensive neighborhoods? Well, it all started with the bar’s original owner, Christopher Lucien File, a Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef. Opened in 1995, Dirty Pierre’s was originally “Lucien’s,” evidenced by the neon blue light hanging inside the bar today. In the late ‘90s, the establishment was officially renamed Dirty Pierre’s, which is quite fitting for a place of this demeanor. Christopher Lucien File has passed on, but his legacy lives on. He personally trained all the cooks and his original recipes were passed down to employees who still work there today.
While Dirty Pierre’s appears to be a rugged bar, the food tells a different tale. “The burger and mussels pay the rent,” Raquel, part-owner and manager, tells me when I ask her what I should eat.
Customers can customize their burger toppings, but I trusted Raquel with mine, and she delivered; a ½ pound medium-rare burger with ground beef from nearby Metro Meat Market slathered with house-made garlic cheese and topped with shallots and bacon on an English muffin. Thank goodness for Raquel’s guidance. The garlic cheese was incredibly creamy, with the tang of cream cheese but the texture of ricotta. The quality of the meat spoke for itself, and the crunchy, salty bacon contrasted perfectly with the sweet, sautéed shallots. If I closed my eyes, I was at a bistro in Paris.
Next up were the mussels, with a big bowl priced at $22. Dirty Pierre’s gets mussels delivered fresh three times a week. Their mussels are served with an unctuous white wine and garlic sauce, with pops of fresh diced tomatoes. It’s served with crusty semolina bread, perfect for sopping.
Food aside, one simply cannot go to a place like Dirty Pierre’s and not order their signature pint-sized sangria, with a base of orange liqueur, brandy, and Bacardi Gold; the red is made with Chianti and the white is made with Chablis. There’s also a full bar with a selection of 40 bottled beers.
Life can feel futile, and I know we can’t agree on everything, but let’s all go have a pint of sangria, share a big bowl of mussels, and find common ground at Dirty Pierre’s.
Address: 13 Station Square, Queens, NY 11375
Phone: (718) 830-9698
Price range: Burgers start at $15.95, mussels “big bowl” is $22, appetizers $6 to 15, entrees $19.95 to $40
Specials: Brunch Saturday and Sunday (noon-3:45 p.m.) at $28 , Burger Night on Sundays after 5 p.m. (½ pound burger served with salad and fries starting at $12), Quesadilla Night on Mondays (starting at $10), Mussels Night on Tuesdays (Big bowl for $18 with a loaf of bread)
Hours: Monday-Friday 4-11:30 p.m., Saturday 12-11:30 p.m., Sunday 12-11 p.m.
No reservations, call ahead for parties of six or more; no delivery — carryout only.
Kaitlyn Rosati is a New York City-based food and travel journalist. She is constantly on the hunt to find the city’s best hidden gems, allowing New Yorkers to travel far without ever leaving the boroughs. Have a suggestion for a great hidden dining gem in your neighborhood? Reach out to Kaitlyn with your recommendations at nomannomad.net@gmail.com.
