Off Hours: How to be Irish for the weekend in Des Moines and sizzling hot restaurant news

Good morning, Des Moines, and happy day after St. Paddy's (that's "dd," not "tt") Day to you! I'm Elle, the Register's dining reporter, and I almost got arrested once in Ireland.

Welcome to Off Hours, a free weekly newsletter on all things entertainment from the Des Moines Register. This week I spoke with an Irish expat here in Des Moines for a new perspective on one of my favorite holidays.

The Deal

Here's the deal: When I was living in Cork, Ireland, in 2015, St. Patrick’s Day fell on a brilliantly sunny Tuesday. Walking from my flat in St. Luke’s Crossing down to the celebration on the aptly named St. Patrick’s Street, I encountered gobs of parade-goers wearing shamrocks and shades of green, some with the Irish flag painted across their faces or lime-colored wigs cascading down their shoulders. It was a sight that felt at once incredibly special — this was St. Paddy’s in Ireland, after all — and oddly familiar. I watched the parade (or, more accurately, I watched the tops of heads float by from my viewing spot a good 10 people deep in the crowd) and petted every dog in a green bandana I could find. That night, trad music and the sound of parties underway rang out from pubs all over the city, empty kegs stacking up along alleyway walls.

Irish American heritage runs deep, and the holiday has me thinking about how we celebrate and how much it means both here in America and across the pond. I got in touch with Michael Halloran, an Irish expat living in Des Moines with his American wife and their four-year-old daughter. Halloran's background is in history and anthropology, and he teaches an evening course at DMACC on ancient Irish history.

More: Want in on secret spots to have fun in Des Moines? We've got a newsletter for that.

His Irish parents lived and worked in New Jersey, where he was born, in the ’80s. His family moved back to Dublin in 1991 when Halloran was in grade school, but later his path would weave back to America after meeting his wife — an Ames native — on St. Patrick's Day in an Irish pub in South Korea. The pair moved to Iowa in 2013, and Halloran has been sharing Irish culture with his community through courses and outreach since.

Halloran is part of a shrinking population of Irish Americans with direct, non-ancestral ties to both places. St. Paddy’s Day became a cross-cultural celebration of Irish heritage thanks to mass immigration of Irish citizens to the United States in the late 1800s. Commemorating the day with a green outfit, a trip to church, and parade watching likely helped root Irish Americans as they grew accustomed to life so far from home.

"The connection between Ireland and America has kind of diminished a little because you don't have the same level of immigration that you have had in the past," Halloran said. "You don't have as many families having that transatlantic connection."

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But if you find yourself in any major U.S. city on St. Patrick's Day, you're likely to spot a parade, maybe a green river. The parades, Halloran told me, actually began first in New York City in the late 18th century before becoming popularized across Ireland in more recent history. It's thanks in large part to this sharing of Irish heritage and tradition at the hands of homesick Irish Americans that we all get to be fiercely Irish for a day.

If your interest in Irish culture spans beyond one day wearing green, there are opportunities locally and around the Midwest to explore the little island country through history and connections with Irish Americans.

The Friendly Sons of St. Patrick of Central Iowa are well-informed on events happening around the state, so Halloran suggested keeping an eye on their Facebook page. His DMACC course is currently full, but he plans to lead another in the future. And before the pandemic, Halloran was teaching an Irish language course, which he also hopes to be able to continue soon.

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As for today, Halloran told me he'll likely be wearing green.

"Maybe I'll bring my daughter to the parade," he said. He's hopeful that this is the year he can introduce her to his home country. "I'm trying to get her interested in Ireland...we read Irish books and stuff like that."

Whatever your plans for today, I wish you a grand time with loads of craic! Sláinte!

My Top 3 Ways to Celebrate St. Paddy's Day

1. Eat as the Irish do. Halloran told me that there aren’t a lot of foods directly associated with St. Paddy’s, but since it’s a holiday and day off from observing Lent, many families make a roast. Been there, done that: I’ll be eating a full Irish breakfast to kick off my day instead. The full Irish is a meaty feast of eggs, Irish bacon (rashers) and sausages (bangers), grilled tomatoes, beans, and black and white puddings. Not the kind you’re thinking of — both are sausages usually formed with oats and suet, and black pudding is made black with pork or beef blood. Don't knock it ’til you've tried it. I found everything but the rashers at Gateway Market, and I'm sopping it all up with some fresh soda bread; here is a good recipe. Since it’s a holiday, why not wash this fine breakfast down with a cuppa — or as the Americans say, tea — AND a pint?

2. Check out the parade and party tent hosted by the Friendly Sons of St. Patrick. Des Moines hasn't seen a Paddy's Day parade since 2019, so the Friendly Sons are ready to put on a great show. The parade starts at noon at Mulberry and 15th streets and makes its way to Grand Avenue, at which point the parade will turn toward the river until Eighth Street. View it from the designated parade tailgate at 13th Street and Grand Avenue for $5 with live music, a silent disco, food trucks and a beer garden starting at 8:30 a.m.

3. Plan a pub crawl around the metro’s Irish pubs. Green beer? I'll pass. All I want is a properly poured pint of Guinness and some Jameson on the rocks. Tons of festivities are happening throughout the weekend, but I suggest stopping by Cooney’s Tavern, Magee’s Irish Pub & Eatery, Sully’s Irish Pub, The Irish, and Cumming Tap for as close to authentic as we get here in Iowa.

More: Off Hours: How to entertain a smart, super active 8-year-old boy in Des Moines

Eat This, Drink That

The Local Crumb’s seeded sourdough bread — $5.60: This month, I visited James Beard Award-nominated baker Aaron Hall of The Local Crumb at his baking studio in Mount Vernon. Hall is a semifinalist in the Outstanding Baker category, a huge honor in the food and beverage industry. Luckily, you don't have to drive two hours east to get a taste of his nationally recognized bread. Zanzibar's Coffee Adventure stocks Hall's bread for breakfast sandwiches. Hall supplies sourdough and rye breads at the Ingersoll coffee shop, and they serve it toasted to a crisp and topped with scrambled eggs, cheese, and scallions. The sourdough has an airy crumb, a light tanginess and a perfect crunch against soft buttered eggs.

Get it: Zanzibar's, 2723 Ingersoll Ave., Des Moines, is open Tuesday through Saturday from 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Across town, Hall's bagels are for sale at Nosh Café & Eatery.

Pint of Guinness at Cooney's Tavern — $5.50: I could spend an hour just reading all the vintage posters on the walls of Cooney's Tavern. Stepping into this low-lit bar outfitted with real Irish street signs and memorabilia will transport you right to Co. Galway. Order a creamy pint of Guinness, always on tap.

Get it: Cooney's is Beaverdale's one and only Irish tavern, according to its Facebook page. The cash-only tavern is open Monday through Friday from 2 p.m. to 2 a.m. and weekends from noon to 2 a.m.

St. Patrick's Day also marks the beginning of my itch for patio season. Where are you headed this spring for the best happy hour and Saturday afternoon lounging? Suggestions welcome on Twitter, @ElleWignallDMR.

48 Hours Off

Saturday morning: There aren't a ton of opportunities to see live woodcarving in Iowa beyond the Iowa State Fair, so anytime I catch wind of local whittling, my interest is piqued. The Mid-Iowa Woodcarvers are a group of carving enthusiasts whose talents range from wooden toys to gnomes to elaborate doorframe decorations. Hosted by Reiman Gardens in Ames, the Mid-Iowa Woodcarvers Show runs from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and promises live carving contests and mesmerizing demonstrations as well as hands-on whittling lessons. Admission is free for Reiman Gardens members and Iowa State Univer.sity students and $11 general admission.

Saturday night: Chef owner of Centro George Formaro is hosting a ticketed ($75) Midcentury Supper Club Dinner starting at 6:30 p.m. in Centro's private dining room. Reminisce with the chef about a bygone era of food with some of his personal favorite dishes like the classic relish tray, chicken and wild rice soup and a baked Alaska. This dinner, part of the 2022 Throwback Dinner Series hosted by Centro, has unfortunately sold out, but keep an eye on Centro's event page for future exclusive dinner pop-ups.

Sunday afternoon: Speaking of midcentury, West Des Moines antique shop The Picker Knows is cleaning house for spring with its Vintage Décor Show running Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. at the Decades Event Center, 1208 Grand Ave., and entrance to the sale is free. There is nothing like the satisfaction of a great vintage find, and The Picker Knows will have furniture and home décor spanning decades for you to browse. Go get those deals!

Word on the Street

Breaking news for Off Hours subscribers: You're the first to hear about a new ongoing, online column in the works where I'll be regularly dropping in cool bar and restaurant news that I'm hearing around town. If you're anything like me, you love the satisfaction of breaking fun foodie news to your friends, like the latest menu drops and chef collaborations and beer release parties. Let me help you be that friend! Here are a few first-to-knows to get us started:

Orchestrate Hospitality's Italian restaurant Centro is remodeling. Marketing director Adam Bartelt told me the space is getting a facelift to mark 20 years of business and adjust to the reality of changing dining patterns in the COVID era. Renovations include a reconfigured entry and new flooring and lighting. While the remodel should be complete at the end of the week, the restaurant is open for dine-in service in the private dining room. You'll have to skip the pizza though — the coal-fired ovens are getting a deep clean.

Johnston's Charlotte's Kitchen is open for dine-in service. The chicken sandwich food-truck-turned-restaurant did a full remodel, adding a new ceiling, new flooring, locally handmade wood tables, a custom mural and the brand new Grandma's Pantry. It's stocked with Iowa-made food products and all proceeds from pantry purchases will go to different nonprofits each month.

Secret Admirer is starting a Super Secret Brunch Club that will run every Saturday this summer. Owner Nick Tillinghast told me he will partner with local food and coffee businesses to bring an exclusive brunch to SA.

Enjoy the scoop? Keep an eye on my byline for the official column coming soon. Something happening around town that you heard about first? Dish it at ewignall@registermedia.com.

Around Town

• After two years away, St. Patrick's Day parade returns to downtown Des Moines

• Celebrate St. Patrick's Day 2022 at one of these 6 Des Moines metro parties

• Long-time Drake coffee shop Mars Café to open new skywalk location in downtown Des Moines

• Maggie's Rumble Room opens in the former Sambetti's with vintage vibes and specialty pizzas

• Aaron Hall's bakery is in a former classroom in Iowa. The James Beard Foundation took notice.

• Iowa chef Kevin Scharpf often asks recruits about James Beard Awards. Now, he is nominated for one.

My Day Job

Thanks for reading, Des Moines. To keep up with the latest food news around town, check out my work here. Recently, I got to interview Andrew Fuller, the local hyper-realistic cake sculptor behind the wild Sugar Freakshow decorating studio opening this spring. Tune in to "Is It Cake?" premiering tomorrow in full on Netflix to see Fuller competing to fool judges (and maybe even you, viewer) with incredibly convincing cakes disguised as everyday objects. On Monday, I'm giving Register subscribers an exclusive sneak peek into Fuller's unorthodox shop, and he's sharing all the behind-the-scenes craziness of filming a baking show.

Next week, our amazing retail reporter Hannah Rodriguez finds out what it's like to float. Did a friend send you this newsletter? You can sign up for your own free copy here.

This article originally appeared on Des Moines Register: Where to find Irish food, sourdough bread, Guinness in Des Moines