OPINION: Another trip to the Big Easy, part 2

May 27—If you're one of those people who doesn't eat greasy, spicy food, New Orleans might not be the best place for you. Still, if you're into music and would like to check out the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, you can find a bit of everything. Even tofu.

On a late Wednesday night when we arrived in NOLA the first week of May, we ate at Mambo's in the French Quarter, mainly because it had a rooftop dining terrace overlooking Bourbon Street. That particular street has to be on your list, but it's not for young children — especially the farther south you go. My dad, when he was younger and cooler and more enthusiastic about immersing himself in various cultures, took my siblings and me on a stroll down there. I was 14, my sister was 12, and my brother was 10. There were women leaning out of windows, cat-calling my brother, who was freaked out. At one point, my dad motioned to a woman inside one of the bars, dancing on a small stage. I remember she had on a melon- and salmon-colored jumpsuit. My dad asked me, "Don't you think she's pretty?" I confirmed she was. He told me, "Well, she's not a woman." He said it without judgment, matter-of-factly — and that is the attitude certain individuals need to adopt today. (If you don't like drag shows, don't attend them; they're not really my cup of tea, either. But don't deprive others of the right to seek that form of entertainment, unless you hate freedom. And that's my anti-authoritarian sermon for the day.)

All that being said, my family doesn't hang out on Bourbon Street during our annual excursion. It's too crowded, most of the drinks are watered down, and there is always a faint odor of vomit. But other streets in the immediate vicinity are worth attention in terms of dining or grabbing a drink. My son's favorite place for cocktails is the Bombay Club; my husband's is the Hermes Bar, which is attached to Antoine's. Bugs Bunny fans will recognize this as the ages-old restaurant that served "Louisiana Back-bay Bayou Bunny Bordelaise, a la Antoine" ("I must haff zees lessipee!"). But there are some hidden gems, too, like Erin Rose, and you could also consider a cocktail tour. Then you'll get to experience some neighborhood bars. You might not want to venture in by yourself, but with a local as a tour guide, you will be welcome. And drinks are cheap.

I've already explained our Thursday and Friday itineraries. On Saturday, it rained pitchforks, but we stubbornly sat on the field with our umbrellas. The bands played, too — only lightening will delay or cancel Jazz Fest. That day we camped out at the Gentilly Stage, because we knew The Lumineers were closing. But David Shaw of The Revivalists also played. He explained he was supposed to perform the previous weekend, but he had been sick — and to partly make up for it, he brought the rest of The Revivalists onto the stage, which was a pleasant surprise. After going back to the hotel and drying off, we beat feet to Dooky Chase, a famous restaurant we had not yet experienced. Despite the name, the inside is quite elegant. My sister had gumbo, but my husband had a pork chop, as he often does, and he pronounced it excellent. I treated myself to some great fried chicken. One must have soul food in NOLA.

Sunday was the last day of the festival, and both weekends, the top-billed acts close the various stages. Tom Jones, Melissa Etheridge, and Herbie Hancock were among the final acts at various venues, but we camped out at the Festival Stage to see Mumford & Sons. Trombone Shorty was to follow him and close the night, but we had planned to see Etheridge in the blues tent, since we'd seen Tom and Shorty several times.

For all of us, the last couple of hours at Jazz Fest were the best. The highlight in my mind — and in the minds of many around us — was when Mumford & Sons brought out Trombone Shorty for "House of the Rising Sun." This man is acknowledged as the greatest living trombone player in the world by many. Even writing about it, it gives me goosebumps. For the first half of the song, most of the audience stood with their mouths agape. Then, tears begin to flow. The emotional reaction everyone had is hard to describe. What a privilege this was to witness! Someone posted a video of it on YouTube, and I recommend you take the seven minutes needed to check it out. If you are one of those people who always asks, "Why New Orleans?" — here is your answer.

After that, we hopped on over to the Etheridge show. I had never seen her before, but my sister had, and that woman rocked the house — or in this case, the tent. Though I'm familiar with her music, I had no idea she was such a great live performer. We truly felt blessed to have seen her in action. This is another one of those people who, if you get a chance to see her, you shouldn't miss.

After Saturday's fast line up, my husband and I went to a fairly new high-end restaurant called Jewel of the South. I won't go into a lot of detail, except to say I might have enjoyed it more if my husband and I weren't into a little spat. (For those who know Chris, he tends to hold onto grudges for a while — hours, if not a day or two. I let things go very quickly, but sometimes when I think an argument has ended, 30 minutes later, he will pop up and say, "And ANOTHER thing...") Regardless of that inconvenience, the food was exceptional. We ate in a beautiful, dimly lit courtyard, surrounded by up-and-comers in their 20s and 30s. We might have been the oldest people there at the time, but it was very late, and especially memorable were the reasonably priced caviar service and the luscious foie gras.

The 2024 Jazz Fest is set for April 26-May 5. I don't know which weekend we will go; it depends on the lineup, and we won't know that until January. We've always wanted to go both weekends, but there would have to be a heck of a roster to compel us to spend that much money. If you really love music — I mean, love music, and everything that goes with it — consider booking a trip. And if you want the complete Nawlins experience, we'll see you on the field.