Can an overnight beauty regime really make you look younger?
Last Sunday, the clocks went forward for spring. But, while lunch al fresco and an extra hour of sunlight are all very welcome, the downside is, we've lost an hour of sleep.
This may not sound significant, but, as science would have it, our nightly rhythm is a careful balancing act. “Lack of sleep is making us look older," says leading dermatologist Dr Howard Murad. "Beauty sleep is not a cliche, it’s a fact. When you’re sleeping at night your body enters a type of hibernation that allows it to repair itself.”
In other words, the less sleep we get, the older our skin looks. "When we sacrifice our sleep, it causes dark under-eye circles, dullness, dehydration, deep-set wrinkles and puffiness,"says Dr Murad.
The good news is, there’s a new wave of hard-working products primed and ready to take on the night shift. All make better use of those midnight hours, supercharging our skin in a limited time.
Forget thicker versions of your day cream, these are high-tech, agile formulas that are meticulously created to work alongside our circadian rhythm and overhaul our skin while we drift off. "Over the past few years there has been a lack of differentiation between day and night creams and the role of each has become more blurred" says Dr Ellie Bradley, Boots' Scientific Advisor.
Does your skin really need a overnight regime?
"Many people are under the impression that you should give your skin a breather from products at night and, as a result, they avoid using any skincare before going to bed," says dermatologist Dr Tiina Meder. "In actual fact, night time is the best time to use skincare, regardless of your age or skin type. City-dwellers need to help fight free-radicals, while those living in the country need to repair UV-damaged skin and help restore the skin barrier. Women over 40, for example, are also more likely to experience the lack of the skin elasticity after sleep deprivation. So, all of us need to apply skincare at night," she advises.
"During the day, our skin has a variety of threats to deal with – most notably, UV light and pollution. Freed from the constraints of coping with these aggressors at night, skin is able to focus on any damage caused by free radicals throughout the day. Which is exactly why your night products need a high concentration of antioxidants to help support this internal repair mode," agrees Noella Gabriel, co-founder of Elemis. What's more our skin faces different challenges at different challenges at night. "Skin becomes more permeable overnight and therefore more responsive to the topical products applied. It also loses more water through the epidermis which is why sometimes a more potent cream is required overnight in dry skin types," advises cosmetic surgeon and international aesthic lecturer, Dr Jonquille Chantrey.
How night (and hair and body) creams just got smarter
"Knowledge of the skin and the effects of sleep have really impacted research and the creation of products," says Sally Penford, Director of Education at Dermalogica. "We’re starting to learn more about the circadian rhythms of the skin.
As we learn more about the clock genes that control the circadian rhythms of the skin cells, coupled with the effects of sleep on our skin, we are able to develop products to complement the skin’s natural rhythms and support night time recovery mode whilst improving quality of sleep," she adds.
What’s more, the same treatment has been extended to our hair and body. Smart solutions like Kerastase’s new Nutritive 8H Magic Night Serum, work in much the same way as a facial serum, providing a shot of potent, targeted nutrients overnight. Whereas, Sarah Chapman's Overnight Body Treatment came about in response to her hugely popular overnight facial equivalent. "With its irresistibly silky cashmere texture and innovative skincare technologies, this rapidly absorbing, dry serum-oil brings the incredible results of my skincare into body care" she says.
The best part? These products are ideally suited for busy schedules. No ten-step routines, no waiting around for products to sink in. Instead, once applied, they'll do the work for you, which means waking up to glossy hair, skin and nails with very little effort involved.
8 top-to-toe smart ageing products that work while you sleep
Kerastase Nutritive 8H Magic Night Serum, £36
Ideal for busy lifestyles, this can be raked through dry hair with your fingers, which means there’s no need for washing or wetting. The nourishing ingredients include a cocktail of nutrient-packed vitamins and iris root extract, which wraps a glossy coat around each strand. This help firstly to top up the essential nutrients we need for healthy hair and secondly to create a protective coating around strands, shielding them from friction against our pillow (which can lead to frizz). The serum penetrates and is absorbed by our hair overnight, so in the morning, there’s no residue left to wash out. Instead, you’ll find your hair feels much softer, looks visibly glossier and smells delicious. A perfect lazy treatment, if ever I saw one.
Murad Hydration Night Fix Enzyme Treatment, £70
The ingredients in this new high-tech treatment were chosen specifically to work in line with our bodies’ natural circadian rhythm. Chronopeptides support natural repair and tri-enzyme technology helps to provide potent antioxidant protection, in order to tackle fine lines, dehydration and dullness. Though very much grounded in science, this also focuses on wellbeing, with a time-encapsulated slow-release lemon, violet and cedarwood scent, to soothe stress and encourage sleep throughout the night. Massage on over the top of your moisturiser as the last step in your skincare routine before bed.
Sarah Chapman Overnight Body Treatment, £54
This luxurious body oil contains the same skin-perking ingredients we'd expect in a facial, with nourishing argan oil, a potent complex of protecting antioxidants, skin smoothing matrixyl peptides and a little retinyl palmitate to promote cell turnover and improve radiance.
Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon, £72.50
This powerhouse night treatment combines leading skincare with a soothing sensorial experience and an added wellness offering. Tamarind seed extract nourishes and softens skin, while Persian silk tree extract reduces signs of fatigue and boosts radiance. To promote restfulness, motion-activated French lavender essential oils are released as we move in our sleep and, as an added bonus, Dermalogica have launced a widget which plays calming sleep sounds by Nucalm to help you drift off.
Elemis Peptide 24/7 Overnight Cream-Oil, £49
This cream/oil hybrid combines the hydration of a cream with the lightweight slip of an oil. It contains Peptide4, a tetra-peptide extract made up of four amino acids, which help to create the proteins we need to make skin plump and aid the synchronisation of the skin's own internal clock.
No.7 Protect & Perfect Intense Advanced Nourishing Hand & Nail Treatment, £11.50
This contains exactly the same technology that goes into the brand's skincare. Double Defence technology helps to protect against damaging free radicals (like those found in pollution). The lightening complex helps to fade dark spots and the pro-retinol complex helps to firm skin and create suppleness. Pro vitamin B5 strengthens nails and cuticles. Use it as an intense booster in the day time, or slather on a thicker layer overnight for ultra soft hands.
Decleor Aromessence Neroli Amara Hydrating Night Balm, £45
If you're put off of balms because of the rich consistency, try giving Decleor's Hydrating Night Balm a go. It melts into skin and drip feeds in moisture over eight hours while you sleep to ensure your complexion looks fresh and dewy by morning.
Bloom And Blossom Sleep Night-Time Dry Body Oil, £24
To see off dusty-looking limbs, Bloom & Blossom's fast absorbing Dry Body Oil is lovely. It's safe to use in pregnancy, smells wonderfully sweet (frankincense, honey murtle, lavender oil and moringa) and leaves skin feeling positively silky.
