Paradise That Goes By The Name Mauritius

White sandy beaches and crystal clear waters are all that come into view when you think of Mauritius, yet behind the glossy images of sublime paradise sits an island that houses a tonne of character highlighted by extreme poverty and ruin.

Mauritius is a delicate island and one that is a pleasure to visit, yet behind the luxury 5 star hotels lie streets of run down apartments and tin shacks. What’s more is that the surroundings do not cause upset, but feelings of gratitude.

Exploring their culture and relishing in an environment that makes you sit back and revert back to basics is soul cleansing and refreshing.

Tin shacks may seem absurd to a typical westerner but to these people it is home and it is happiness and it is a place of comfort and familiarity. Being able to see this side of Mauritius made me feel as though I saw the real nitty-gritty parts that make Mauritius more real than the glossy photos you see in magazines.

We stayed at the Zilwa Attitude hotel, which had a view I didn’t even think was possible to exist. Waking up to it every morning whilst doing yoga on the balcony helped clear my mind and take time to recuperate and recover from day-to-day life. Hues of blue and clear warm air made a lie in seem like a waste, I wanted to be up, ready to seize the day, see the sun rise and watch the day change from dusk to dark.

Our rooms were designed around typical Mauritian homes, such as an open plan space, concrete flooring and wooden furniture. The shower overlooked the sea view and was open in a concrete corner. Stripping down to basic living and removing the fluff of ornaments, pillows and throws, was a welcome change and it felt good to be in an open space of neutral colours and natural light.

The pool area did not disappoint either, the infinity pool looking over the beach was the epitome of paradise, if only it wasn’t so cold! However, the beach was vastly disappointed, gravel and murky waters that could only be entered with swim shoes made for a dip in the sea feel like an exploration of an exotic land. Luckily the hotel had a private island that was shielded from the wind and had the white sand you expect from such a place. Staff were amazing, they couldn’t do enough for you and you were waited on hand and foot, the bar was brimming with entertainment until midnight and after that, you were left to listen to the sound of the sea and the feel of cool air on warm skin.

As a vegan, I thought that my holiday would be limited to fries and vegetables but I was shocked to see that they catered for my diet more so than meat-eaters. Vegan dishes came in the form of roasted aubergine, white bean ragu and an array of curries. The salad bar housed an aroma of wholesome foods and they were more than happy to make something else if you required. Food was available throughout the day, with a dedicated pancake hour in the afternoon, much to my brother’s delight. As they are home to the Sugar Cane, they made fresh sugarcane juice for you on request, it was delicious, sweet and refreshing.

One day we made a trip to the local village; the Goodlands market was an explosion of colour, smells and trinkets; handmade tablecloths, woven notebooks and delicate jewellery. I spent my time bewitched by the group of women working mechanically to make farrah breads and curry, all with smiles on their faces and a buzz of laughter. One lady held out the dough to my sister and allowed her to roll it, letting her become a piece of their magic. I was bewildered by the array of colours, the craft of the handmade articles and the contagious energy of the people within.

Contrasting this was the divine simplicity of Grand Baie. Filled with soft white sand and clear waters, it was a scene of paradise. If we weren’t doing a quick trip, I would have stayed for hours soaking up the sun and snorkelling, but we only made a pit stop, one that I wish could have lasted longer.

The capital, Port Louis has an abundance of character. Despite seeming modern and commercialised, a turn into the main plaza greets you with a view of floating umbrellas. Giddy with excitement of the Instagram opportunity, I spent my time photographing this incredible display and standing mesmerised by such artistic flare in such an unexpected location. We marvelled at the history that lay inside the stamp museum and wandered around whilst taking in all the different stamp designs and how they came about.

However, we didn’t always stay above sea… despite my phobia of fish, and more recently the sea, I was surprisingly eager to attend the undersea walk. Donned with a helmet weighing more than myself, I was quickly submerged into the sea and onto the seabed. Have I never been more astounded! Tranquil and almost unreal, the clear waters disillusioned you into thinking you were on land. Fishes were so close; you could see every detail on the scales. I felt the soft sand under my toes and touched achingly beautiful coral. Its safe to say my phobia of fish has been abolished!

After this we ventured to the Botanical Gardens, a learning cove of species and medical science. Seeing it in their summer would have been breath-taking, since everything would have blossomed, but the winter dew on the bark and slight darkening of the sky made it seem almost enchanting. Approaching the pond, brimming with lily-pads made for a scene from a fairy-tale. Watching the fruit bats fly from tree to tree made you feel as though you were wandering a wild forest and the smell from broken barks gave off aromas of mint and cinnamon.

Something else that astounded me during my visit and something never before on holiday have I had the opportunity to do, is go to a local’s house and have them cook for me. It was a pleasure to be taken to somebody’s house, somebody who has lived there their whole life and get to experience true Mauritian life. Rani invited us into her home, where she lives with her extended family, small and run down, it was humbling to be invited into a home of which she was proud of.

Our plates were banana leaves and our food was arranged in accordance to how you ate. Women only eat with their right hand and no cutlery was provided. We drank from tin tumblers and were shown how to cook each dish from scratch. We drank rum and sang along to her husband’s guitar and spoke of typical Mauritian way of life. I left feeling humbled, extremely grateful for what I have and an acute sense of perspective. Realising what was important in life became obvious during our time at Rani’s…family, friends and happiness. She later dressed me in a Sari, a traditional formal one that she said she would wear for special occasions, it’s handmade detailing was intricate and fine and the fabric light on my skin. I didn’t want to take it off!

A few days later, we took a boat trip to an island that houses nothing but people’s handmade BBQ’s and leftover marks in the sand. It was idyllic, the air still and the water a crystal blue. The sand was white and powdery and the leaves on the tree hung in the shape of a heart. We toured the island, one side beach-like and the other rocky and grassy.

Around the island lay mangroves, a part of the sea you never thought were there. It covered vast amounts of the sea and housed silver fishes and plenty of wildlife. The water was still, no waves nor current. Lay at the tip of the boat on the ride home, basking in the glow of the sun, I reflected on life and how everything is panning out, I felt at ease and calm, lucky to be where I am with the people surrounding me.

Mauritius was more than an island many call paradise, it was a story waiting to be told…and I enjoyed listening to it.