Parallel 44 Winery co-founder aims to put Wisconsin wines on a world-class level
When Steve Johnson looks over his vineyard in Door County, he sees the future. His dream is a growing goal, literally. He wants to make world class wines right here in Wisconsin, using only grapes grown here.
That means at Parallel 44 in Kewaunee and Door 44 Winery and Vineyard in Sturgeon Bay they’re using cold hardy grapes that might not be as well known to consumers, including Frontenac, Petite Pearl, Louise Swenson, Marquette and La Crescent.
Johnson and his wife, Maria Milano, both had law careers before opening the winery. They planted their first vineyard in 2005 and opened their tasting room in 2007. This year, he’s also working as president of the Wisconsin Winery Association and will be producing his 15th vintage.
Door 44 Winery, 5464 County Road P, Sturgeon Bay, celebrates with its annual Wisconsin Wine Harvest Fest Sept. 10 at the tasting room. Vineyard and winery tours will be at 1, 2 and 4 p.m., a grape stomp at 3 p.m. and live music from noon to 5 p.m.
Wines, typically priced between $16 and $24, can be shipped throughout Wisconsin and to more than 30 states. Tastings are $8 for a flight of four wines. For additional information, go to www.44wineries.com.
We talked to Johnson about his wineries and his hopes for the Wisconsin industry overall:
Why open a winery in Wisconsin?
A lot of it stems from we took our honeymoon to Napa in the middle of our law school career. There was something about that way of life that appealed to me. I come from a farming background. We had three kids and time was running short. There was this drive in me to do something that people thought was not possible.
That is still what drives me every day. We are getting more respect for trying to develop a viticultural wine region in Wisconsin, but it is still an uphill battle.
What grapes grow in Wisconsin?
Honestly, it is still a challenging climate to grow grapes. At this moment it has also come down to sending out the right message so we are more well received. I still say that if I walk down Wisconsin Avenue or Capitol Square, few would understand that I’m talking about wine if I say ‘Would you like a Marquette or La Crescent?’
We have eight varietals at Parallel 44, another three at Door 44, and another four or five with other growers around the state. There are at least a dozen commercial varietals that have proven successful (in Wisconsin).
I suspect within 10 years we may have 50% more varietals to work with here. I think whites, sparkling and rosés we have now can make world-class wines. The red aren’t quite there yet. … As grape breeders keep working, I think they can eventually rival the reds of California.
Red vs. white
It was really to be able to have a vineyard that was productive and make wines people enjoyed. This year will be our 15th vintage.
I foresee if we see speak of this as a region, that sparkling and rosé will be what we excel at. As most winemakers do, I’m still pursuing that deep robust red, but if I want to hang my hat on something, it is white and sparklings. La Crescent is the best example. Just about everyone who pursues La Crescent likes it. These varietals are high in aromatics, so sometimes the perception of sweetness is higher. … I prefer La Crescent with Louise Swenson (a cold-hardy grape) to tone it down a bit.
Production ramps up
Our first year, our production was 2,000 cases. This (current) vintage I think we’ll end up at about 14,000 cases. So that’s a sevenfold increase, but still small compared to the big wine regions.
Growth of winemaking around the state
I think in ’07 when we opened it was 33 wineries (in Wisconsin). Now the last count of registered wineries in the state it was 115. There are probably 15 or so that are licensed but not operating, so about 100 to 105 that are operating. Eighty are members of the Wisconsin Winery Association.
More: Kathleen Gallagher: What's standing in the way of growing Wisconsin's wine industry?
What makes a Wisconsin wine
To be a Wisconsin label it has to be 75% grown in the state’s borders.
Why he uses only Wisconsin grapes
It is not that I am opposed to using other region’s grapes, but to develop a regional style that will be to use what we grow locally. It is fine to use grapes from other regions, but in the end the story is going to be told by what is regionally done.
To have that regional style, that reflects the soul of the land, and for many people that is what makes the wine interesting, what makes that wine is the climate, the soil, the topography.
What's the Wisconsin Ledge?
The Wisconsin Ledge is from the tip of Washington Island, the peninsula, along the Fox River, Lake Winnebago, cut across Port Washington. That is the Wisconsin Ledge appellation. Steve DeBaker of Trout Springs Winery was the person responsible for sending in the application, but as far as I know, they look at meteorological data, soil, characteristics that will lend to the wine. He submitted hundreds of thousands of documents in support of this. We are close to Lake Michigan, so the impact of the bay, and the topographical feature of the Niagara Escarpment and the limestone soils are the features that led to them to awarding that appellation.
Current fan favorites
The most popular at the moment is the series of our Frosting wines. The red Frosting is from Frontenac, the pink is Frontenac Gris, white Frosting is La Crescent. … I am going to sell out of that soon. It is way more popular than I expected. Another summer favorite is our Frozen Tundra white, a La Crescent.
What's his everyday drink?
In the summer, Bubbler or Sparkler. In the winter, I gravitate toward Petite Pearl. In the spring, the Petite Pearl rosé, which is probably my favorite. It has become so popular. Petite Pearl makes a really good red, but it is an amazing rosé. People don’t seem to give the same respect to rosé as they do reds, but I can’t make enough of the rosé.
Impact of climate change
I think the longer growing season will help us have wines that have a little more richness, if we have more heat in the summer, but we still have the concern with frost damage. That in fact has intensified with climate shifts. … I think we’re getting closer to figuring out varietals suited to this climate.
We had contact with the winemaker from the Vanderbilt estate, Biltmore, they ordered some La Crescent and Petite Pearl a couple months ago. They want to learn how to grow it, and next spring they’ll plant La Crescent and Louise Swenson. These grapes are drawing interest from other regions.
Getting restaurants to think local
People are very, very focused and interested in the local aspect of a restaurant’s offerings. Entrees use produce sourced within so many miles of the restaurant, but it doesn't seem the restaurant industry has embraced the idea of wine as the epitome of a local expression. If we could have more restaurants with an interest in offering more local wines, it definitely increases our awareness and prestige, and will eventually broaden the audience.
Tasting room tips
Keep an open mind. I see more and more of the younger generation coming in and they're not having expectations of ‘where is your cabernet and chardonnay?’ They’re curious about what you're making and trying something new. Keep an open mind and don’t have preconceived notions of what Wisconsin wine means.
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Fork. Spoon. Life. explores the everyday relationship that local notables (within the food community and without) have with food. To suggest future personalities to profile, email psullivan@gannett.com.
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This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: Parallel 44 Winery co-founder wants world class Wisconsin wines
