The designer, whose English garden gown graced Rashida Jones Oscar night, went a more unstructured route this season, creating what he called a "noble and bohemian" look evoking some stylish residents inhabiting a crumbling Venetian palazzo. An Italian Grey Gardens if you will.
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As specific as that is, stylist Seb Bascle – who has created a similar look for Cara Delevingne – made a modern Mona Lisa style to match the fringed caftans, sequined capelets, and beaded oversized coats with a middle part and smooth top that loosens into flowing, unstructured waves.
To create the look, Bascle started with dry hair and then created horizontal sections from bottom to top. He spritzed L'Oreal Professionnel TecniArt Pli setting spray on each layer to give added weight and hold to the hair at the roots.
"You make the hair flatter and flatter in layers with the spray. It works like a hairspray with a bit of hold, but not too strong so we can still create a natural wave," Bascle explained to Pret-a-Reporter. He then divided hair into three or four sections lengthwise, twirling each section in a roll and then up into a bun while hair was heated lightly with a blowdryer.
To avoid a bottom heavy look on girls with thicker hair, he also created a hidden bun by braiding and wrapping a section just below the crown to remove heft.
Flat hairclips or a small piece of fabric was tied to give a slight inversion at the nape of the neck, and when the bun was let down, the models had natural, soft waves. To finish the look, Bascle secured the part with a good dose of hairspray and hit the bottom with dry shampoo.
"The trick is to use the dry shampoo to make the hair very dry at the bottom, but it’s very important to keep the shine at the top to create the dual effect," he explained.
While Bascle said he can see the look working on a Parisian girl in a leather jacket that’s "a little bit trashy," we think it’s perfect for summer — in Venice or on Venice Beach.
Backstage photos courtesy of Rhonda Richford