At his Parisian showroom, the legendary Japanese designer presented his Fall-Winter 2015-2016 menswear collection. Wearing ample tailoring, ripped hems and lots of layers, the season's Yohji Yamamoto man is somewhere between a dandy, a zombie and a hobo clown, but the subdued colors keep things sophisticated nonetheless.
The highly anticipated Yohji Yamamoto show did not disappoint, setting a theatrical tone from the first looks. Wearing scars, pallid faces and blank stares, the Japanese stylist's models had a definite "living dead" quality, which was played up by the ripped hems in their clothes. Floppy-brim hats, baggy pants, partially dyed hairstyles and patchwork tailoring added a touch of hobo clown style, giving another facet to this street-worn yet fashion-conscious look.
The designer nonetheless remained true to his signature style codes, presenting a number of monochromatic looks (black on black or white on white) as well as plenty of layering and deconstruction effects, as seen in the patchwork pieces, the torn fabrics and the flowing oversized garments (coats, jackets and pants).
One thing is certain: though he may be down-and-out, the Yohji Yamamoto man remains elegant. The colors were subdued for the most part, as the palette was dominated by blacks, greys, whites and dark greens. Red is seen in light touches, as in a two-tone jacket with a bright red panel on one side.
The stylist relied far less on prints than his peers this season, though there were a few velvet suits with a romantic marbled motif.