Paris Modes at Fendi A/W 2015/16 in Milan

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He may not like to look to the past, but Karl Lagerfeld was celebrating decades of loyalty to the Fendi house Thursday and opened the show with a new page in the story.

And from the first looks, it's one of modernity. A huge loose coat with imposing buttons and then a long straight leather dress with a high collar sets the tone.

Colors of rust, saffron, and geometric prints inspired by the Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber illuminate the wardrobe. The cuts are straight, and longline. The materials structure the silhouette especially with the play of appliquéd leather panels on the side of a skirt. The patchwork fur introduces a new graphic element to the coats. Shearling warms up the bottoms of the trousers. Leather breastplates are fixed onto white shirts.

A collection which reminds us of Karl’s aesthetics: strictness and graphic silhouettes. New volumes for the dresses and puffa jackets. A real sensation of softness, like a mink strapless dress in pale tones which closes the show with delicacy and luxury.

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