Park Heights' executive chef got his start at age 17
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Jun. 21—TUPELO — When Tom Lester was 17, he got his first job in a pizza restaurant in Connecticut that was owned by a family friend. By the time he was 21, he was a sous chef at the Southport Brewing Company.
From there, he moved to Manhattan, and started working for Ian Schrager, the founder of Studio 54 who had boutique hotels all over the world.
"I was modeling in my 20s as well for companies like Nautica," Lester said. "I did that for eight years. I'd go to castings during the day and chef at night."
Lester served as either a sous chef or executive chef in fine-dining restaurants in Connecticut, New York and Florida before settling in Oxford in 2010, where his daughter, Elle, lives.
"In Oxford, I started restoring mid-century modern furniture on the side while working in restaurants at the same time," he said. "But my love has always been food."
In the fall of 2020, he saw an online post advertising for an executive chef at Park Heights restaurant in Tupelo, owned by Blair Hughes.
"Blair and I talked several times and just seemed to hit it off," said Lester, 45. "I came here and did a tasting and got the thumbs-up."
Lester started at Park Heights in November 2020 and slowly started making changes.
"The menu seemed a little dated to me when I got here," Lester said. "It was good food, but just a little bit behind the times."
Lester specializes in Asian fusion cuisine, so he's added a little of that influence to the restaurant's seasonal menus.
"When I was in Connecticut, I started taking courses through the Culinary Institute of America's apprenticeship program," he said. "I just did that on the side to advance my knowledge. I'm able to do a lot of things with Asian ingredients. I've been cooking since I was 17, so I've done all different cuisines."
Popular items on Park Heights' menu right now include a charcuterie board with assorted cured meats, imported cheeses, crostini and Blackberry Farm jam; lemon shrimp pappardelle with asparagus, spring peas, sugar snaps, baby spinach and leeks; and pan-seared halibut with duck fat potatoes, asparagus and a chorizo saffron cream.
"Tom is a perfect fit here because of his personality and his diverse background," Hughes said. "He cares so much about what he does, and he's open to suggestions. His even temper and mellow, laid-back style have changed the whole culture of the restaurant. I can't imagine having anyone more pleasant in the kitchen."
Park Heights was recently named the Best Fine Dining Restaurant in the state by Mississippi Magazine.
"I've been in this business for 23 years, and I've never gotten that award before," Hughes said. "Just to be nominated was an honor. To win was a thrill. Tom is a large part of that. "
Lester said he's well-versed on different culinary techniques — sous vide, using oils and foams to extract subtle flavors — and he likes to make an attractive plate.
"But the bottom line is to make food taste good," he said. "That's why one of my favorite things to cook is comfort food, like braised short ribs."
And his one guilty pleasure?
"I know it sounds silly, but hotdogs are my guilty pleasure," he said.
Lester commutes from Oxford to Tupelo for his job in the restaurant, and while Oxford is his home, Tupelo might just be his heart.
"I'm excited to be here," Lester said. "I've watched Tupelo grow and change just in the short time I've been here. I appreciate how much people take pride in this town."
