Patsy's Tavern in Paterson offers 'bucket-list-worthy pizza' with a secret crust
EDITOR'S NOTE: Matt Fagan has eaten lots of pizza this year as part of his quest to find the best in New Jersey. This is his latest stop, Patsy's Tavern in Paterson.
For anyone in search of a great New Jersey slice of pizza, add Patsy's Tavern in Paterson to your bucket list.
People from all over, and at times arriving by the busload, have visited Patsy's Tavern & Restaurant, said owner Steve Barbarulo.
My recent visit made it perfectly clear why pizza lovers have been stopping in for nine decades.
Patsy's has attracted and kept a coterie of loyal customers which continues to increase every day. It is a gem and shining star in Jersey's pizza constellation.
Long strange trip
Initial impressions can be powerful. Pastsy's has been serving pies and Italian fare since 1931 and looks like what I imagine a 1930s restaurant would have looked like — lots of wood furniture with dark complexions and tiny booths that can barely accommodate 21st-century Americans. There are lots of old-time photos adorning the walls of the eatery located at 72 7th Ave., in Paterson.
"I wanted to change the interior," he said. "We have customers come here for 50-60 years maybe longer. They said don't change."
Frankly, the interior is charming and only the first in many reasons to respect this institution.
It's about the crust
It took just one bite to understand all the great reviews written about Patsy's food. Most agree it is the crust that enthralls you. Yes enthralls! It is not just that fact that it is crispy, which it is, but it also has that extra I like to call a certain je nais se quoi. This is French for a special quality that just can't be described.
How crisp? From the first bite, you discern a distinct crunch. How Patsy's does it is a family secret.
According to Barbarulo, the only other people who know the secret include his grandfather, his dad, who died young, and his late brother, who died a few years ago, What gets added to the standard dough mix of water, yeast, salt and flour, that gives its distinct taste and texture only he will only impart when in the not so distant future he sells Patsy's.
The ovens
Not so secret is how they are baked. The pizza is formed in a pan, not quite a deep dish and is cooked in two ovens.
First, it goes into what he calls his "new oven," 60 years young and which is set at roughly 600 degrees. The second baking goes into the 90-something-year-old brick over that firms up the crust. Temps inside range between 700 and 725 degrees. Like all ovens, this one also has its hot spots, but Barbarulo knows them intimately.
"If you are not careful, you can burn a pie in two minutes," he said, adding that when finished you get a crust like none other. It holds up to however much sauce and cheese and toppings are added.
"I have seen four or five toppings on top and it holds up, he said.
The sauce
Barbarulo said there are no secrets to the sauce. It consists of uncooked plum tomatoes and herbs and spices.
"They cook in the oven," Barbarulo said. "We season and spice them up."
He uses a top-quality tomato product and has used the same purveyors for years.
The cheese
Nothing special just a low-moisture, fresh milk mozzarella.
More: Pizza Bowl IV voting has begun. Here's how to vote for your NJ favorite pizza
Whole nine yards
While what makes Patsy's stand out is the crust, he said there are many great pizza joints in the state.
Places like Federici's of Freehold, Santillo's of Elizabeth or Maruca's of Seaside Heights have outstanding crusts, which are as different and distinct as are their products. Barbarulo said they all offer different things to different palates.
"I hate when people say this place is the best," he said. "There are a number of outstanding pizza makers in the state. They are all different and some people like some better than others,"
Then again people do like to note that places like Patsy's, Maruca's, Coniglio's of Morristown and DeLorenzo's of Robbinsville do seem to be a cut above the rest. Mostly it has to do with the ingredients.
"It's not rocket science," Barbarulo said. "You put good ingredients, the dough tomatoes and cheese, and you should come out with a top product."
More: Papa's Tomato Pies, the oldest pizzeria in NJ, is home of the mustard pie
Good to know
Two crucial things to consider. Number one is that parking can be a challenge at Patsy's. If you have a large group, Barbarulo recommends carpooling. Number two, Patsy's only takes cash.
The bottom line 🍕🍕🍕
Excellent pies. Make the trip. We don't think you will be disappointed.
Go: 72 7th Ave, Paterson, 973-742-9596
Ratings are: 🍕🍕🍕 Exceptional (worthy of a pizza pilgrimage); 🍕🍕 Excellent (if you are in town, make a stop); and 🍕 Worth It (good if it's your neighborhood joint).
About this series
In My Big Year of Pizza, Matt Fagan is on a quest to rate as many of New Jersey's close to 3,000 pizzas as possible and let readers know where they fit in the state's pizza pantheon.
The idea for this big year of pizza comes from the 2011 movie "The Big Year," starring Steve Martin, Jack Black and Owen Wilson. The difference is they were funny and, as amateur bird watchers, they searched for birds instead of pizza.
This article originally appeared on NorthJersey.com: What makes pizza from Patsy's Tavern in Paterson a must? It's a secret
