Peptides are popular for skincare, but are they worth the hype?
Peptides remain one of the most popular skincare ingredients year after year, but the truth is that marketing claims about them are often exaggerated or even untrue.
While peptides are safe and rarely cause side effects, they are not the most effective anti-aging skincare ingredients available. Here’s what I tell my dermatology patients about peptides and whether or not they are worth the hype:
What are peptides?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that bind together to form proteins like collagen. Peptides are found throughout the body and perform a variety of functions, including cell signaling, hormone function, immune response, antioxidant activity and many more. While peptides play vital roles in a wide range of systems throughout our bodies, there are a few notable challenges when using them topically in skincare products.
What do peptides do for the skin?
The main benefit that peptides provide in skincare is to make the skin look and feel smoother and firmer by “filling in” the spaces between skin cells. However, because most peptides are too large to effectively penetrate the skin, this smoothing and firming effect goes away when you wash the product from your skin.
What are the downsides of peptides?
Peptides can provide skin-smoothing benefits when used in skincare, but there are several reasons why they are not the best anti-aging ingredients:
▪ Peptides are too large to penetrate the skin and reach the deeper layers.
▪ Peptides are known to be unstable and easily broken down, so they have a poor shelf life.
▪ Peptides can cause other skincare ingredients like vitamin C and retinol to become unstable too, limiting their efficacies.
▪ Peptides are not suitable for acne-prone skin because common acne treatment ingredients like benzoyl peroxide cause peptides to oxidize.
What are the best peptides?
Some peptides are better than others, so if you are going to try peptides for anti-aging, consider these three types:
▪ Defensins
▪ Tripeptides
▪ Hexapeptides
So far, these peptides have the most research behind them. Before trying new peptides or other anti-aging ingredients, however, make sure you know your Baumann Skin Type, because not all peptides or other skincare ingredients are a fit for every skin type.
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