PFW: deconstructed and dressy at Cédric Charlier

The Brussels-born upstart is another Belgian designer out to conquer Paris Fashion Week. He showed his Spring/Summer 2015 collection in the hip Canal St Martin area of the city on Wednesday.

The Charlier girls rocked a sexy evening beauty look: hot berry compote lips, bold eyes and glittering drop earrings. The sense of loucheness was matched in the opening outfits and their deconstructed tailoring vibe, with faux-pattern cutting guidelines marked out in appliqué work, jacket arms cut off jaggedly, and stripes of horizontal silk in bumblebee gold, black, white, pink and gray. These were joined by silk negligée-style cocktail dresses and slouchy shirtdresses in soft pink, then richer red and emerald tones.

Feathers appeared too, covering whole skirts and fringing the sporty mesh panels that cropped up on shoulders and hips. Leather skirts were another later addition, cut light, and layered over matching black silk. The final five looks piled up loose tiers of ruffles (or irregular pleats), some in matching colors, others mixing up the collection's color palette and fabrics. The footwear choices stuck to flat platform sandals, some with elaborate patent and iridescent leather bows, others with rows of studs.