PFW: monochrome modernism at Mugler

Mugler
Mugler

New creative director David Koma showed his first runway collection for the French fashion label.

The theme at Mugler this season was a 'blank slate', with the London-based, Georgian-born designer's debut runway show at the Parisian house. The tabula rasa concept went as far as the all-white set built for the show inside the Grand Palais, and the slick monochrome modernism of the clothes lived up to their billing.

Koma sent out plenty of chic, slim-cut, tailored tuxedo-inspired silhouettes (with hidden magnetic closures and clasps on the jackets). And there was more than enough sex appeal to go around: cut-outs appeared on hips, decollétage, and midriffs, while other pieces featured semi-sheer panels wrapped across the models' chests. Metallics were another key theme, with rose gold and silver woven through the seams of the garments. It wasn't all about the black and whites though, there were also a few fiery abstract digital prints in a mix of blues, and flaming oranges and reds.

After the show Koma described the "athletic, fierce and happy" Mugler woman he was chanelling, and the casting was a vital part of that success (the sporty glamazons strutting their stuff included Karlie Kloss). "I felt a connection with the girls," explained Koma, who said he worked with each model individually on their look, and only sent them out when the girl was satisfied. Looks like the perfectionism paid off.