Pickles on pizza and everything on sticks: Our hot takes on the State Fair’s new foods for 2022

Jess Fleming, Jared Kaufman, Pioneer Press
·17 min read

It’s a full two and a half years into this pandemic, and it seems like we’ve all just sort of learned to live with it.

Though the virus is still freely circulating, the Minnesota State Fair is back ON, in full force. Crowds were heavy and lines were long on a beautiful first day in Falcon Heights, but we still managed to have a great time wandering the Fairgrounds and trying most of the new foods with our contest winners, Mollie Joy Atkins and Ross Haddow.

The pair have a food-review Instagram — @lets.try.that — and aren’t afraid to offer their hot takes, which is just what’s required for this assignment. Marketing consultant Lori Swanson and photographer Andy Rathbun also offered their tastebuds and opinions for this story.

After eight hours and nearly 15,000 steps, we tried almost all of the foods on the official new Fair foods list before saying our goodbyes.

Here’s what we tried and what we think. What was your favorite new food? Let us know at eat@pioneerpress.com.

BREAKFAST GNOCCHI, $11.75

Item description:A bed of potato gnocchi topped with scrambled eggs, bacon, pesto cream, shallots and balsamic glaze.

Mollie: That is an aggressive amount of green onion.

Andy: It’s comfort food. Would be good with a cup of coffee.

Jared: Feels like a State Fair diner dish.

Jess:The gnocchi is a little gummy, but the flavors are OK if you pick off some of that green onion.

At The Blue Barn, located at West End Market, south of the History & Heritage Center

SWEET POTATO POUTINE, $13.75

Item description:Sweet potato waffle fries topped with cheese curds, Beyond chorizo sausage, turmeric gravy, pico de gallo and fresh cilantro.

Mollie: That is some tasty goo! (She’s talking about the turmeric gravy.)

Jared: That’s really good — so well spiced!

Lori: I like that it’s sweet but has a nice little bite to it.

Andy: Salty — a little oversalty, maybe? But would be good with a beer.

Jess: Is this poutine? It needs more curds.

Ross: Oops, I guess I got the only cheese curd.

At The Blue Barn, located at West End Market, south of the History & Heritage Center

BELLY FULL NORDIC WAFFLE, $12

Item description:A spring onion-infused Nordic Waffle filled with sous vide seasoned pork belly with coleslaw and locally made jalapeño jam.

Mollie: Super sugar forward. It’s a weird match with all the onion.

Ross: Tastes like sweet and sour chicken. It’s not my favorite.

Jared: I just wish it were more savory. I don’t need to eat it again.

Lori:I like the dressing, but I don’t really like it on here. It’s just too wet.

Jess: I’m really not feeling this one.

At Nordic Waffles, located at West End Market, south section

VANILLA DREAM NORDIC WAFFLE, $10

Item description:A Nordic Waffle coated with cinnamon and sugar and filled with Norwegian vanilla custard cream.

Jared:This is what I want a State Fair waffle to be.

Mollie: I loved it — the cream is nice and light and love this churro-y business on the outside.

Lori:I like it but don’t think I could eat the whole thing.

Ross: I could! It’s right up my alley for sweet foods.

At Nordic Waffles, located at West End Market, south section

TOT DOG, $7

Item description:All-beef hot dog dipped in corn dog batter, rolled in a mixture of minced tater tots, cheddar cheese and onions, then deep-fried.

Mollie: This is so good! Crispy and a good hot dog. Also a good deal.

Ross: I’m not really a tot guy but this is good! Really tasty.

Jared: The photo online looked like a deep-fried finger, so I wasn’t sure what to expect, but this totally delivers.

Lori: That’s a nice big dog.

Jess:They really nailed the crunch. I would totally eat this again.

At LuLu’s Public House, located at West End Market, south of Schilling Amphitheater

MINNE HOT HOT, $12

Item description: Smoked Rib Tips tossed in Nashville Hot Sauce, served with Comeback Sauce.

Jess: It’s actually hot! Not Minnesota hot! Tasty but I don’t want to blow out my palate so early in the day, so one bite it is.

Mollie: That was a big ol’ bite of bone! Lot of bone.

Ross: It’s definitely got some heat behind it. That burn sticks around afterward.

Andy: Whoo!

Lori: That’s got a bite to it! I can’t even taste it because it’s so hot.

At RC’s BBQ, located on the north side of West Dan Patch Avenue between Liggett and Chambers streets

CONCHA BACON BURGER, $12

Item description: All-beef patty with raspberry aioli, lettuce, pepper jack cheese, pickled jalapeños and bacon served on a concha, a traditional Mexican sweet bread roll.

Ross:The burger and bacon are good — unsure about the roll.

Jared: This is a miss for me.

Mollie: There’s a lot going on. It’s kind of spicy, but weird spicy. The sweetness doesn’t match.

Jess: Uh-uh. I don’t like a donut burger, though, so maybe it’s just not for me.

Lori: What did I just eat?

At Aldo’s, located in Warner Coliseum, west side

DEEP-FRIED ICE CREAM, $8

Jess: I do like the ice cream part.

Mollie: It’s really, really frozen. But I’m OK with that.

Jared: I love the cornflake coating and it all tastes great, but it hurts my teeth.

Lori: I’m not feeling it.

At Snack House, located in the Warner Coliseum, south side

CHEESE CURD TACOS, $12 for two

Item description: The Original, with diced bratwurst, fried cheese curds, lettuce, and Baja sauce; or the Box Checker, with diced chicken, bacon, fried cheese curds, lettuce, and ranch sauce.

Jess:This is not crispy! Just gross and soggy. That is bad.

Mollie:Such a weird thing to eat. I’m sad because I love cheese curds!

Jared:This was one of the new foods I was most looking forward to, and now the one I’m most disappointed by.

Andy:I’d rather just eat a cheese curd.

On the south side of the Food Building, east section

CELEBRATION CAKE-ON-A-STICK, $6 ($7 with custom icing)

Item description:White cake infused with almond flavoring and decorated with white frosting.

Mollie:That’s a cake on a stick, alright. Plenty of almond flavor.

Andy: People will buy this just to take a photo.

Ross:Yeah. Very instagrammable.

Jess:That’s a good cake, and I like the nostalgia factor. If you’ve ever had a birthday at Mancini’s, it’s special.

At Mancini’s al Fresco, located on the north side of Carnes Avenue between Nelson and Underwood streets

“MEAT” BALLS & MARINARA, $12

Item description: Italian herb-seasoned “meat” balls browned and sauteed in house-made garlic and oregano red marinara sauce, topped with plant-based Parmesan cheese and fresh parsley, served with a slice of grilled sourdough bread

Ross:If not for the sauce, then… just, no.

Mollie: The “meat” is pretty spongy.

Jess: You’re right, it is spongy. I would not seek this out again.

Jared:The flavor’s fine and I appreciate that there are no-meat options, but why does this have to exist?

At French Meadow Bakery & Cafe, located on the north side of Carnes Avenue between Nelson and Underwood streets

EARTH SLIDERS, $14

Item description: Marinated, battered and crispy fried “chicken” patty topped with house-made, slightly spicy secret sauce, shredded lettuce and house-made cucumber pickles that have been marinated in turmeric, garlic and sweet onion, served on a grilled bun.

Mollie: Look how many pickles are on here. Holy buckets. I would rather just eat a frozen chicken patty from the grocery store.

Jess:Dry as the desert — and flavorless. Write that down.

Jared:This stand has been one of the biggest flops of the day.

Ross:Are the pickles just here to hide the fake meat?

At French Meadow Bakery & Cafe, located on the north side of Carnes Avenue between Nelson and Underwood streets

TIROKROKETES, $7

Item description:Mix of spicy feta, cream cheese and mozzarella blended with Dino’s Greek seasoning, then rolled in a gluten-free panko, deep-fried and sprinkled with lemon juice, Parmesan cheese and Dino’s seasoning.

Jared:This is exactly what I want, all the time, especially for $7. I think I’m in love.

Jess:It’s a bunch of cheeses. Delicious. 100 percent would eat again.

Mollie:Totally like it. That creaminess is a great contrast to the crunchy outside.

At Dino’s Gyros, located on the north side of Carnes Avenue between Nelson and Underwood streets

VEGAN CORN DOG, $7

Item description:Plant-based vegan hot dog hand-dipped in plant-based vegan corn dog batter and deep-fried.

Mollie: Oh, that’s not good.

Jess:The texture is all wrong.

Andy: I can’t differentiate between what’s the corn and what’s the hot dog.

Ross:Very one-note. Glad these are here for people who need them but it doesn’t taste good.

Jared:The mustard is fine; can’t imagine they made it.

At Daryl’s Dog House, located on the south side of Carnes Avenue between Nelson and Underwood streets

CHICKEN TANDOORI ROLLS, $12

Item description:Chicken seasoned with tandoori spices, onions and peppers wrapped in paratha flatbread, then grilled and served with a side of avocado cilantro lime sauce.

Mollie: I feel like I’m forgetting what I’m eating while I’m eating this. What is this supposed to be?

Ross: It’s a bit dry. Definitely needs the sauce.

Jared: They must have doctored their promotional photo because this does not look nearly as good in real life.

Jess:It’s decent, but the Indurrito from Hot Indian is what I wish I were eating, and this is a sad imitation.

At Holy Land, located at the International Bazaar, southeast corner

PINK GUAVA SLUSHIE, $6

Item description: Frozen slushie drink made with juice squeezed from fresh pink guavas.

Mollie: A hit slushie!

Ross: I love that guava.

Jared: It’s so thick, almost into smoothie territory.

Jess:Fruity and refreshing. A perfect Fair drink.

At Holy Land, located at the International Bazaar, southeast corner

MOV + NQAIJ (RICE + MEAT), $14 (CHICKEN) or $15 (SAUSAGE)

Item description: Purple sticky rice with choice of sauce, plus choice of skewered and grilled meat including Hmong Sausage (house-made coarse-ground pork sausage link with Krunchy Chili Oil), Hilltribe Chicken Thigh, or Lemongrass Turmeric Tofu.

Jess: I like that he put it on a stick. He knows where it’s at.

Mollie:Such an upscale, delightful Fair bite. Those pickled veggies on the side are so dope.

Jared: The chicken is so well-spiced. I love this.

Andy:Oh yeah. I love that sausage. That is really satisfying.

At Union Hmong Kitchen, located at the International Bazaar, south wall, west corner

DEJ QAB ZIB, $7.50

Item description: Coconut lychee colada made with a blend of coconut milk, lychee syrup, lime and mint, served over ice.

Mollie:That’s just beautiful.

Jess:Coconutty, limey… yes. Yia Vang is so great.

Andy:Oh, wow. This is definitely my favorite spot so far.

Jared: This is so tropical, plus the lychee. So cool.

At Union Hmong Kitchen, located at the International Bazaar, south wall, west corner

TANDOOR-FIRED JERK CHICKEN MINI’ZZA, $7

Item description:White chicken meat, bell pepper, onion medley, whole milk mozzarella cheese and West Indies Soul Food’s signature Jamaican Jerk Sauce on a buttermilk naan crust baked in a tandoor oven.

Jared:This rocks. I want this in my life regularly.

Ross:This is really good.

Mollie:Ooh, I love that. The sauce, veggies, tiny bit of heat. Small for $7, though.

At West Indies Soul Food, located at the International Bazaar, south wall

TURMERIC GINGER LEMON SURPRISE, $6

Item description: Fresh ginger, turmeric syrup and a dash of bitters mixed with West Indies Soul Food’s Original Caribbean Lemonade.

Mollie: The sign says “Turmeric Ginger Leon Surprise.” Who’s Leon? The smell kind of reminds me of Citronella bug spray but the flavor is nicely herbaceous.

Ross: I’d call that a patio crusher.

Jared:This just tastes like lemonade.

Lori:Good going down. Weird afterward.

At West Indies Soul Food, located at the International Bazaar, south wall

MOLOTES, $10 for two

Item description:Deep-fried corn masa empanadas with choice of fillings: Chipotle Style is filled with shredded chipotle chicken and topped with chipotle sour cream, cotija cheese and fresh cilantro; and Elote Style is filled with roasted corn and topped with mayo, cotija cheese and Tajin seasoning.

CHIPOTLE STYLE

Mollie: Instantly dries out your whole mouth.

Jared:That’s OK. I am not convinced there is chicken in here.

Ross: I really like the corn. The breading is OK.

ELOTE STYLE

Jess: That’s mushy. Really not loving the texture.

Mollie:Everything falls out of it. There’s nothing holding the filling together.

Jared:I agree it’s one-note but the corn batter is nice.

At Midtown Global Market’s Andy’s Garage, located in the Taste of Midtown Global Market booth at the International Bazaar, east wall (Available Aug. 25-30 only)

COTTON CANDY FLOAT, $6 for 12 ounces

Item description: Cotton candy soda poured over Kemps vanilla ice cream and topped with cotton candy.

Mollie:OK, I love that. It’s really sweet, but it doesn’t just taste like cotton candy, it feels like cotton candy!

Andy: It’s kind of a sugar bomb.

Jared: I had really low expectations, but it’s really good. That being said, I don’t think I could drink it all without getting a stomach ache.

Jess:You know, that tastes like cotton candy!

At German Root Beer and Popcorn, located east of Chambers Street, just south of the Grandstand

ALL QUACKED UP, $12

Item description: Fried, farm-fresh duck egg from Graise Farm in Faribault atop shaved smoked ham, aged cheddar cheese, tomato and spinach, served open-face on toasted sourdough bread with paprika aioli.

Lori: I like it, but I don’t understand the bread.

Mollie:The bread is very dry. The toppings are fantastic, but that bread is a big miss.

Jared: The cheese is not right. It’s just kind of — there. I wish the aioli was spicier.

Jess: That bread is like an extra-stale crouton. Totally a waste of a beautiful duck egg.

At The Hideaway Speakeasy, located in the Veranda, Grandstand upper level, northwest section

NEW MEXICO CHILE DOG SLIDERS TWO WAYS, $10

Item description:Green chile and red chile — made with roasted-on-site New Mexico Hatch chiles and a hint of chorizo pork, topped with queso-style cheese and red onion, served over all-beef hot dogs on slider buns. Comes with a prickly pear cactus slushie shooter on the side.

Mollie: I like them both — so good.

Jared: I think that shooter might be my favorite part.

Ross: I like the green chile one a little better but they were both really good.

Andy: That shooter is great and really helps cools things down.

Lori: I got some spice, but not too much. I really like it.

Jess: Excellent Fair-appropriate food. Another hit for Blue Moon!

At Blue Moon Dine-In Theater, located on the northeast corner of Carnes Avenue and Chambers Street

LEMON COOKIE TORTILLA CHIPS, $9

Item description: Lemon sandwich cookies deconstructed into four large tortilla chips made from a blend of cookies and corn, served with creamy-center-of-the-cookie cream dip topped with lemon curd.

Jess: Those cookie chips are flavorless and hard.

Ross: But the lemon curd is good!

Molly: The cookies are kinda graham cracker-y.

Jared: I don’t get it.

At Blue Moon Dine-In Theater, located on the northeast corner of Carnes Avenue and Chambers Street

GRAY DUCK SUNDAE, $9

Item description: Bridgeman’s Black Licorice Ice Cream topped with marshmallow cream, crunchy mini marshmallows, whipped cream and a cherry.

Mollie: I don’t like black licorice, but I like that. The marshmallows were a little like styrofoam, though.

Andy: I’m not a black licorice person, but they nailed this. It’s the perfect amount of black licorice flavor. I’d buy this.

Jared: I liked the crunch of the marshmallows. I enjoy black licorice, so this is right up my alley. It’s the first thing I’m going for seconds on.

Jess: I love black licorice, so this is an easy slam-dunk for me. Creamy, dreamy, adult sweet treat.

At Bridgeman’s Ice Cream, located on the northeast corner of Judson Avenue and Liggett Street

SOULSICLE, $9

Item description: Fried chicken on-a-stick topped with candied yam sauce, cornbread crumble, mac-and-cheese seasoned cheddar cheese, hot sauce and green onions.

Mollie:That’s delicious. The sauce is sweet and interesting and I really liked the crunch on the chicken.

Ross:That chicken is super crunchy outside, juicy in, and I really dug the sauce.

Jess: The only thing I’m missing is any sort of mac-and-cheese flavor.

Jared: I’d get that for $9.

At Soul Bowl, located in the Food Building, east wall

MONSTER MASH, $24

Item description:A combo of Herbivorous Butcher’s two new items. Poultrygeist is fried chicken topped with sausage gravy and french fried onions on buttery Texas toast; and Steak-xorcist is chicken fried steak topped with sausage gravy and french fried onions on buttery Texas toast. (Both are vegan.)

Andy: Oh. The steak one is really not good.

Lori:I’m going with — horrible mush.

Mollie:The “steak” tastes like burnt dog food. The “chicken” is fine.

Jess:Is it weird that I don’t hate it? It’s just, like, salty Franken-food.

Jared: I kind of like the chicken. The steak is … not good.

At The Herbivorous Butcher, located in the Food Building, west section, south wall

CHICK N SWISS SAUSAGE, $8

Item description: Grilled chicken sausage custom-made with chunks of Swiss cheese and asparagus, ground pineapple, bacon and jalapeño, served on a bun.

Mollie:It’s a little salty but pretty good sausage.

Ross: I’m getting to the point where no sausage tastes good.

Andy: Pretty good, but not great.

Lori:When you’re talking about the bun more than the sausage, that says something.

At Gass Station Grill, located on the west side of Cooper Street between Dan Patch and Judson avenues, outside southeast corner of the Food Building

BUZZ’N … HOT HONEY CHICKEN SAUSAGE KEBOB, $12

Item description:Hot honey drizzled over chicken sausage skewered with cornmeal biscuit chunks and served on a bed of coleslaw.

Andy: Not bad. Like a play on biscuits and gravy.

Ross: Those taste like biscuits in a can.

Mollie:That kind of weird, sweet sausage didn’t work for me.

Jess: This looks better than it tastes, and that’s not saying much. It just doesn’t really all go together.

At Sausage Sister & Me, located in the Food Building, east wall

KULFI, $5

Item description: Indian-Style Ice Cream in Three Flavors (pronounced kuhl-fee): Made with condensed milk, nuts and infused spices. Available in three creamy flavors: Almond/Cashew/Pistachio Kulfi; Mango Kulfi; and Saffron/Almond/Pistachio Kulfi. We are reviewing the mango — the others were pre-packaged on the first day of the Fair.

Jared:It’s good!

Jess:All I taste is sprinkles.

Mollie: I’m sad about the sprinkles because the ice cream is good.

At Hot Indian, located in the Food Building, east wall

SWEET CHEESE BLINTZ, $5

Item description:Soft baked crepe filled with sweet vanilla-flavored cream cheese and sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Jared: It’s not the worst blintz I’ve tried, but I don’t understand why there’s powdered sugar on top.

Jess: I mean, it’s basically a cheese-stuffed crepe. What’s not to like? Also, it’s the cheapest food on this list.

Mollie: Why is it room temperature?

At iPierogi, located in the Food Building, south wall

PORK SCHNITZEL SANDWICH, $14

Item description: Breaded and deep-fried Minnesota pork loin topped with pickled cabbage and served with mustard mayo on a toasted bun.

Mollie: I loved it. The bun is great, the schnitzel is crisp outside and juicy inside.

Jess: I’m really surprised to be getting this level of schnitzel at the Fair!

Ross: The pork was good and juicy.

At Minnesota Farmers Union Coffee Shop, located on the north side of Dan Patch Avenue between Cooper and Cosgrove streets

BIRTHDAY CAKE PALETA, $6

Item description:A Mexican frozen dessert on-a-stick made with chunks of birthday cake, sprinkles and a vanilla extract base, specially created by locally owned La Michoacana Rose to celebrate Hamline Church Dining Hall’s 125th year at the Fair.

Jess:This tastes very pleasantly like birthday cake.

Mollie:It’s very sprinkle-forward.

Andy: It reminds me of getting a treat from an ice cream truck. There’s something very childlike about it.

At Hamline Church Dining Hall, located on the north side of Dan Patch Avenue between Underwood and Cooper streets

REUBEN ROLLS, $10

Item description:Corned beef, Swiss cheese and sauerkraut hand-rolled in an egg roll wrapper, deep-fried and served with a side of O’Gara’s homemade Thousand Island dressing.

Mollie: I like that they’re just what you’d expect. Pretty cheesy. I like the sauce, and the sauerkraut helps cut through the fat and fried.

Jared: The crunchy eggroll is unexpected.

Andy:You gotta have the sauce. Without it, they’re a little bland.

Jess: Honestly, I wanted more crisp on the wrapper, but it was fine.

At O’Gara’s at the Fair, located on the southwest corner of Dan Patch Avenue and Cosgrove Street

PICKLE PIZZA, $9

Item description: Hand-tossed homemade pizza dough topped with homemade specialty dill ranch sauce, fresh mozzarella and crunchy dill pickles, and finished with dill weed seasoning.

Mollie: It’s real pickle-y. Very much like the warm pickles you pull off of a hamburger.

Lori: Keep the pickles on the burger.

Ross: That’s a straight-up no for me!

Jared: I love it. That is a me food. Total win. I’m going for seconds. If I could get that at a bar, it would hit just right.

Jess: Picklicious.

At Rick’s Pizza, located on the west side of Cosgrove Street between Wright and Dan Patch avenues

BEAUTY AND THE BUFFALO HUMMUS BOWL, $13

Item description: Ranch hummus, buffalo chicken, crumbled blue cheese, scallions, buffalo sauce and buffalo dust, served with pita puffs.

Mollie:I would happily order that anywhere as an appetizer.

Jess: Very buffalo forward, but I like buffalo sauce.

At Baba’s, located on the east side of Underwood Street between Lee and Randall avenues, just south of Little Farm Hands

COCO-NUTS HUMMUS BOWL, $12

Item description:Hazelnut chocolate hummus, chocolate chips, hazelnuts, shredded coconut and bananas, served with powdered sugar pita puffs.

Mollie: That hummus is oddly salty. There’s just no sweetness to it.

Lori: It tastes like incorrectly made pudding from a box — like it didn’t dissolve.

Jess: Huh. I thought I would like this. I thought wrong.

At Baba’s, located on the east side of Underwood Street between Lee and Randall avenues, just south of Little Farm Hands

SUNDAE SAMMIE, $10

Item description: Grilled sandwich with cinnamon bread, Minnesota strawberry jam, vanilla cream, fresh strawberries, whipped cream, toasted peanuts, confetti sprinkles and flaked sea salt.

Mollie:It’s a good jelly sandwich, but it’s very sweet.

Jared: It feels Fair-ish.

Jess: It’s a PB and J without the best part — the PB. Basically an overly sweet gimmick. That said, my nieces would love it.

Lori:It’s a panini jelly sandwich.

At Jammy Sammies by Brim, located at the North End, northwest section, across from the North End Event Center

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