Portsmouth chef David Vargas shows how tacos are prepared at Vida Cantina

Deb Cram, Portsmouth Herald
·3 min read

PORTSMOUTH — Taste of Local recently paid a visit to David Vargas at Vida Cantina in Portsmouth, where one of the Seacoast's highest profile chefs and restaurant owners took us into the kitchen. He graciously showed us how he prepares a variety of tacos, including carnitas, pork belly and shrimp.

Vargas was recently named one of 20 semifinalists for Outstanding Chef in America in the 2023 James Beard Foundation Awards and is expected to hear March 29 if he will be one of the finalists. He was a Best Chef Northeast nominee three of the past four years.

David Vargas is owner and chef at Vida Cantina, a Mexican cuisine eatery in Portsmouth.
David Vargas is owner and chef at Vida Cantina, a Mexican cuisine eatery in Portsmouth.

Vida Cantina is known for modern Mexican cuisine. Vargas also owns Ore Nell’s Barbecue on Badger’s Island in Kittery, Maine, known for “slow and low” smoked barbecue. He has partnered with local restaurant owner Jay McSharry in ownership of the restaurants. His community-driven work includes being one of the lead organizers for the New England BIPOC Fest. In 2019, he brought his special stuffing for Thanksgiving to NBC-TV's "Today" show.

More Taste of Local:Portsmouth chef and owner of Nikki’s Banh Mi shows how to make Vietnamese, Laotian dishes

Vargas learned to cook as a child in southern California in the taqueria owned by his mother and father, both of whom hail from the Mexican state of Jalisco.

Here's how Vargas responded to our Taste of Local Q&A:

  • What is your full name and title? David Vargas, chef/owner.

  • Where are you from? Southern California.

  • Do you have a family? Yes, Wife (Erika), son (Kavika), daughter (EA).

  • Why did you want to become a chef? I love all things about being in the hospitality business.

  • What made you want to work in a restaurant in Portsmouth? I was blessed to partner with Jay McSharry, and be a part of the JGroup here in Portsmouth.

  • Where did you train and for how long? My whole life I’ve been eating great food so I guess that’s how long I’ve been training.

  • What did you learn in your training? How to really love food and use it to better my community.

  • Have you worked in any previous restaurants? If so, where? Lots, from California to the Virgin Islands.

  • Have you won any awards? I’ve been blessed with four nominations from the James Beard Foundation, I also recently won best chef New Hampshire.

  • Are you involved with any community events? Yes, I sit on the board and started an event called BIPOC Fest.

  • Is there a fun fact or interesting fact you'd like to share about yourself? I love to eat gas station pizza. It’s my guilty pleasure.

  • Who inspires you? My wife!! She is the best example of what a human being should be.

Reporting by Ian Lenahan contributed to this story.

Taste of Local is a series produced by Seacoastonline.com and Fosters.com featuring local chefs preparing dishes they love. Do you know a chef we should feature? Email Deb Cram at dcram@seacoastonline.com and news@seacoastonline.com.

Chef Dave Vargas fills an order of various tacos for a lunch crowd including shrimp, pork belly and carnitas with various salsas and toppings.
Chef Dave Vargas fills an order of various tacos for a lunch crowd including shrimp, pork belly and carnitas with various salsas and toppings.

This article originally appeared on Portsmouth Herald: Portsmouth NH chef David Vargas on making tacos at Vida Cantina