Quebec City Isn’t Just for Old People
If somebody from the East Coast of the U.S. tells me they’re headed to Canada, their age is usually a good rule of thumb for determining where they’re going. Millennial and Gen Z? Montréal. Anybody older? Probably Quebec City. Whereas the province of Quebec’s biggest city is famed for its arts, restaurant scene, nightlife, and even being a little bit naughty, the province’s capital has a more sedate rep.
It’s not just Americans, by the way. Quebec City is just a couple of hours from my home in Montréal and I can’t remember the last time, if ever, a friend went there for a weekend away. My own memories of it are from a mandatory school trip to see a reenactment on the Plains of Abraham–the battlefield where the French lost a major battle in the Seven Years’ War. The city is more where your aunt and uncle go to visit the Château Frontenac, take bad photos of the old town, and visit the Montmorency waterfalls.
That’s why when Auberge Saint-Antoine extended an invite to experience the hotel and the city it seemed only fair to give this beautiful city Montréalers sometimes look down on another shot. Should Quebec City be a weekend getaway for Gen Z and younger millennials? That’s what I was hoping to find out.
In my quest to prove myself ignorant, I dragged along my best friend from Montréal who works at Ssense, which is to say she’s chic and cool and always on top of where to eat, shop, and go out. Less than three hours later by car, we were pulling up to the Auberge Saint-Antoine and immediately sidling up on one of the turquoise velvet chairs in its lobby bar, Artefact.
To put us in the right mood for the start of our busy 48 hours we both ordered a cocktail. The mizzle swizzle, a yellowy-green elegant-looking drink from their signature menu, is what my friend ordered. I had a sip because I couldn't resist and it was a little fruity from the cantaloupe but well balanced with the herbal taste of the chartreuse and the smokiness of the mezcal. I stuck with the classic: “A cosmo for me.”
Bar Artefact.
The hotel is located in Old Quebec next to the port, with cobblestone roads and historic monuments facing the St. Lawrence River. The majority of the things we did were under a 20-minute walk from the hotel, making it super-convenient. (Keep in mind, if you are gonna walk, the city is divided into what they call Upper and Lower Town making some of the routes a little more steep than others.)
We decided to begin our visit with a bit of vintage shopping, as TikTok's favorite hobby is a great way to learn about a city. We walked from the hotel and headed in the neighborhood called Saint-Roch. Known for being one of the more hip areas with lots of boutiques, bars, and restaurants, we ended up spending a lot of our time here. The first store we tried was called Friperie Kappara, a boutique that also has a location in Montréal so we were excited to check it out. While this location is smaller, the same eye-catching pieces can be found. Current favorites like 2000-ish fashion and colorful ensembles dictate the selections in this boutique. The next one we tried is called Friperie Babelou, which encompasses two different boutiques just a couple buildings from each other. The first one we stopped at is more curated and focuses on specific period pieces. The very well-dressed employee greeted us as if it was her own private collection of archived clothes, showing us the new arrivals and providing an intimate description of all her favorite pieces in the boutique. It was almost as if she once was wearing them herself even though she clearly was born much later then most of the garments were made. The other store was less personal but much bigger and had a selection that went with its size but that demanded a bit deeper search. We left Friperie Babelou with a suit jacket from the ’70s for me and a gorgeous vintage silk dress for my friend that she wore that very same night to go out. Finally the last one we stopped at is called Boutique Lucia F. The unique vintage pieces from the boutique felt like an episode of Mad Men. There were also colorful ’60s dresses and eclectic power suits from the ’80s.
Cobblestone streets of Quebec City.
After this we decided to check out Café Saint-Henri, a café-shop not too far from the area we were just in. It is located in the corner space of an industrial building where half the walls are floor to ceiling windows drenching the space in natural light. With the lightwood curvy counter, the sage green drinkware, and the hipster barista, this place was the epitome of a trendy coffee store—which felt apt. After our coffee we walked back home to shower and change and headed right back in the same neighborhood for dinner.
With raw concrete walls, dim lighting, and handsome waitstaff, you know Izakaya Honō is the place to be as soon as you walk in. The popular restaurant is built around sharing—sharing food, sharing a table, sharing a conversation—all at small but cozy tables perfect for the Japanese sharing plate menu. The best part about the service here other than the aesthetics of the staff was the rhythm at which dishes arrived. It’s not an exact science, but each round it felt like we had space and time to eat and talk but were never left in a lurch waiting.
The historic Chateau Frontenac in old town Quebec City.
A friend from college who lives in the city, determined to show us Quebec’s fun side, invited us out. We met him at the Le Drague Cabaret Club, where we ended the night. This is the main gay club in the city and is spread on multiple floors. That night the club offered a drag show, multiple bars, and a two-level dance floor. This place was packed and with so many different types of people. And I must admit, it’s true what they say about people in Quebec City, they are so much more friendly.
Given the late night, our next morning got off to a late start and so we decided to order breakfast in our room. Wrapped in bathrobes, we sat on the private terrace overlooking the St Lawrence River talking about all the fun we had the night before and all the things we didn't necessarily want to remember from the night before.
Chambre Luxe Terrace room at Auberge Saint-Antoine.
Finally having pulled ourselves together, we decided to check out Orlean Island, which can be reached in less than 20 minutes from Quebec City. This island is filled with small farms, lavender fields, and vineyards and felt like the perfect low-key way to cure a hangover. After passing scenic field after scenic field, we pulled up to La Midinette, a bakery set in an historic house with a restored, social media-friendly interior. Famous for their pizza, we got a couple of slices, some coffee, and a croissant to-go as right across the street is a rocky beach which makes for the perfect picnic spot.
After coming back to our temporary home and getting changed we started our evening with a speakeasy called JJacques. Out of everything we experienced, this place was probably my favorite and reason enough to come back for a weekend in the future. The scene is set from the entrance, as you get in from a random door in the back alley of a main street. Inside, the space reminds me of a very intimate bar you would find in Clinton Hill, Brooklyn. Dimly lit, dark maroon curtains on every wall, unpretentiously beautiful people and even more beautiful drinks.
After a few drinks we went to our reservation at the Bistro L'Orygine where we had a five-course meal with wine pairing. The menu is mainly based on local products and they also offer the tasting menu vegan and with non alcoholic wine. The menu changes depending on the season and what products are available. After eating way too much we made it back to our hotel for a not so early curfew because we were exhausted.
Some vintage shopping, picnicking by a farmhouse, and going out aren’t really revolutionary ideas, but they’re certainly more appealing to my friends and I than historical reenactments or tourist trap bistros or walking tours in preserved old towns. And while I’m sure I’ll enjoy those things someday, for now I’m happy knowing I can enjoy Quebec City my way.
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