Raf Simons Has a Peculiar Runway Show Habit—Have You Noticed It?

It is extremely rare for a designer’s bow to be the most riveting part of a fashion show. Those who have historically pulled it off possessed the showmanship gene: Lee McQueen in his infamous bunny suit, John Galliano in his seasonal getups at Dior, Alexander Wang and his mile-long sprints. Raf Simons is far from flashy, and yet, I’ve been watching him appear for his finale walks with eagle eyes since 2012. The reason is a simple hand gesture Simons has made, without fail, at his final fashion shows for Jil Sander, Christian Dior, and Calvin Klein.

<cite class="credit">Photo: Courtesy of Elle Productions</cite>
Photo: Courtesy of Elle Productions

At Simons’s emotional final show for Jil Sander during the Fall 2012 season, the designer emerged from backstage for a tearful bow as the audience rose for a standing ovation. After waving, Simons then raised his hands, mouthed “I love you all,” and made a heart with his hands. The image of his tearful heart symbol circulated on Twitter and Instagram like wildfire—a beloved designer stepping away from a house he revitalized and then expressing his sorrow and love was exactly the thing to tug at the fashion world’s heartstrings.

<cite class="credit">Photo: Courtesy of FF Channel</cite>
Photo: Courtesy of FF Channel

Less than one year later, Simons started at Christian Dior. For 16 runway shows at the esteemed French house, Simons stepped out for his bow with a simple wave. Then came the 17th, a Picnic at Hanging Rock–inspired display of sweetness and sexiness, set against a landscape of delphiniums. When Simons ran across the runway, he again made the heart shape with his hands. Just weeks after the show, news broke that Simons’s contract was not renewed, and he would be leaving Dior. So for the second time, Simons had made the heart gesture during a final collection’s show.

Here’s where it gets interesting. At Calvin Klein’s Spring 2019 show in New York, Simons appeared for a brief bow and made a heart shape with his hands before returning backstage. Three months after the show, Simons parted ways with CK in the middle of a three-year contract. So here’s where we are: three final shows, three heart hand gestures. Related? Maybe, maybe not. But if you happen to see Simons in Paris doing this, please, let me know.

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