What it's like to stay in a Chinese quarantine hotel

China has been imposing lockdowns in isolated parts of the country since January 2020. With its Zero Covid strategy, the nation has lived in a bubble, shielding itself from the outside world since the pandemic began. In the past two years, it has adopted some of the strictest policies on inbound travel in the world, but the Civil Aviation Administration of China plans to “restore the international market” between 2023-25, and in recent months Beijing has started to make adjustments to its inbound travel policies.

Despite continued regionalised lockdowns, including one starting in Chengdu last week, those with valid residence permits are now allowed to return to the country (and embassies have begun to process applications for student visas and for those with family members living in China). Entry is conditional on being fully vaccinated against Covid-19, and providing negative tests prior to departure. All arrivals must agree to daily Covid tests during a seven- to 10-day quarantine.

Recent arrival Arthur Wu* reveals what to expect.

What was it like arriving in China?

In August I was able to board a flight to Hangzhou International Airport, two hours outside my city of residence, Shanghai. As expected, face masks were required on the flight.

On the tarmac the disembarkation took longer than expected, due to people being collected in batches from the plane by officials in hazmat suits. Upon entering the terminal it felt like we had the whole airport to ourselves, it was a ghost town. Pre-pandemic, this airport was considered one of the busiest in China, tens of millions of passengers came through here every year.

Aside from those on our flight, I didn’t see another passenger anywhere in the terminal building. All the staff were wearing white Covid suits. Once in the airport terminal our group had to scan our Covid vaccination codes, and we were all tested for Covid. The process was extremely efficient, although not particularly gentle as testers quickly poked sticks into our mouths.

After immigration, and being cleared by border guards behind screens in hazmat suits, we collected our luggage and we were escorted onto a Covid secure bus to our quarantine hotel.

What happened at the quarantine hotel?

We pulled into a huge complex, with several six-storey-high grey and white apartment buildings. Our papers were ready and waiting at check-in. It felt like we were one of the first groups to arrive, I could still smell the fresh coat of paint in the building. We registered, showed our passports and signed papers in Chinese. The English-only speakers on our flight were told what the statement said: “We should stay in our rooms during the entirety of quarantine or face criminal charges”. Five people at a time were delivered to their rooms via golf buggy.

Staff told me there was capacity for 4,000 people at this quarantine complex. We walked through a corridor and once in our rooms we were told we were not allowed to leave for seven to 10 days (seven if your residence allows home quarantine and you have the appropriate paperwork to prove this).

During quarantine we were not allowed outside for sunlight, fresh air, exercise, smoking or anything else. Smokers were prohibited from lighting up in their rooms. Along with Covid tests, we did regular body temperature tests, these were recorded daily.

What was the room like?

The room was surprisingly comfortable, new and modern – like a flash dormitory or basic hotel room, with a slight apartment feel. There was neutral decor, a desk for working and plenty of light, but my windows only opened a little, leaving space to poke a finger or two out, I noticed other windows opened slightly more. There was a TV (with Chinese channels only), Wi-Fi, water bottles, and a phone to call the front desk for supplies – such as extra water, toilet rolls and fresh towels.

Dozens of members of staff were working at the complex, but only one of them spoke English and was not always available. The majority of the 200 people on our flight were Chinese nationals. The airline asked us to join a WeChat group (China’s version of WhatsApp) so we could communicate with each other.

Through the group I learnt that some people had lost their luggage and that one person had experienced their ceiling falling down while in the shower. Every day there was chat about whether the food was sufficient, some claimed theirs was late, horrible, and even remained undelivered.

What was the food like?

My food arrived like clockwork at 7.30am, 11.30am and 5.30pm, in a plastic tray, with compartments. Meals always consisted of Chinese food, usually rice, vegetables, and meat. I found most of the food edible, but had packed plenty of snacks in my luggage in case it wasn’t to my taste. There was no choice of food – no room service, no takeaways, no minibar, and no basic drinks like tea or coffee. Travellers should pack whatever they need for their stay, especially if they have dietary requirements. Those wanting to bring fresh produce (such as milk or cheese) may have problems keeping it cool – there was no fridge in my room.

Were you ever allowed out of the room?

A number of staff in hazmat suits delivered the food, which they put on a stool outside my door. When they left the corridor I opened the door with my mask on to retrieve the food. Each time I opened the door an alarm went off. On the first day of quarantine, someone tried to leave their room. The loud alarm was followed by an announcement: “Please go back to your door or we will call the police.”

Multiple people delivered the food at a time and did daily tests, on the first day there were six to eight people doing each test at our doors. It seemed like the staff were in training, they were official in manner. When I asked questions, I was always told to ask someone else.

How did you occupy the time?

During quarantine it’s advisable to bring plenty of things to keep you occupied. I was able to work during my stay, but I could have brought exercise equipment and books. I spent hours watching the birds out of my window, I chose to see the process as an opportunity for self-reflection, discipline and restraint. In my hours of gazing, I noticed the building opposite my room was completely empty. I wondered if this whole complex would be used for larger numbers of travellers when China finally relaxes its tourism restrictions.

How much does it cost?

I paid RMB390 (£49) per day for my “quarantine hotel”, which was assigned to me at the airport. This included three Chinese meals a day, unlimited internet fast enough that I could work (although video calls and watching movies was patchy). Quarantine hotels range from RMB250 (£31) to RMB400 (£50) per day, which I paid for on arrival.

For more information on China’s entry requirements visit the FCO website (gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/china).

* Name has been changed.